Photo request: Weapon R (or other) motor damper on 3rd Gen Protege
- Thread starter Dimitrios
- Start date
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
I can get you the shots but it will have to wait tell monday or tuesday... just shoot me a reminder pm on one of those days and ill get ya them.
Thanks. Found a reasonable one (http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z260/EVADE759/DSC00362.jpg) but would just like a better idea on the mounting.
No rush.
No rush.
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
What part of the mounting do you want a better idea of?
Edit: this work for you? It's the only pic I can find on my photobucket that might help.
Edit: this work for you? It's the only pic I can find on my photobucket that might help.
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That's EVADE's car
Thanks all. That does help.
cityracer, thanks for the alternative location/option too in that Probe. My overall goal was to get an Ingalls Stiffy (or other - I do like the fact that you can rebuild the Ingalls unit) damper and then fabricate my own brackets (as I've noted in some threads that the Weapon R brackets are fairly weak and there have been failures). This alternative mounting location looks promising as it being at the midpoint is optimal.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa165/ctyracer/meet020.jpg
A few questions:
1) I assume you have a locknut on the backside of that bolt in the crossmember.
2) You re-used the trans bolt? Would it not have been a better option to get a bolt with another 5mm length on it? Any concerns on cracking the trans case at that point?
cityracer, thanks for the alternative location/option too in that Probe. My overall goal was to get an Ingalls Stiffy (or other - I do like the fact that you can rebuild the Ingalls unit) damper and then fabricate my own brackets (as I've noted in some threads that the Weapon R brackets are fairly weak and there have been failures). This alternative mounting location looks promising as it being at the midpoint is optimal.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa165/ctyracer/meet020.jpg
A few questions:
1) I assume you have a locknut on the backside of that bolt in the crossmember.
2) You re-used the trans bolt? Would it not have been a better option to get a bolt with another 5mm length on it? Any concerns on cracking the trans case at that point?
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What part of the mounting do you want a better idea of?
Edit: this work for you? It's the only pic I can find on my photobucket that might help.
Thanks.
I was looking more at engine mount side (as the strut tower plate looks fairly easy to fabricate).
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
I can provide just the shot of the engine mount bracket for ya... I wouldn't spend the extra money on weapon-r. Mine ******* broke on my ass and I dont launch the car hardly ever due to cear of the crappy diff breaking. I showed picks to weap-r and they wanted me to pay 80+ shipping ircc... I purchased that red ebay one for like 30 bucks and it the exact same if not the same. It was also more then likely made by the same damn company in my eyes.
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
Attachments
Would you have a link to that ebay damper?
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
Just pull up your basic run of the mill damper on their and message the seller asking if they would sell you just the damper. Thats what I did.
Thanks. Pretty much everything I've read has indicated that the Weapon R product and/or service is terrible. Thus I'd much rather avoid it.
I have access to a full machine shop at the office, and scrap metal galore (I'm thinking c-channel or box) without or few welds to cause failure. I personally see an obvious error in the Weapon R (and even the Ingalls) implementation of placing the dampers asymmetrically on a tranverse mounted engine as the forces are most certainly entirely not asymmetrical either. From a cost and installation perspective, I can understand the logic, however.
cityracer's idea of having it symmetrical/centrally located is pretty ideal (my only concern there would be weather corrosion [though it's aluminum]/road hazards).
yup there's a lock nut. There is actually two bolts on the trans side now. The oem trans bolt is still there (it threads from the trans side, but not all the way. Which is where I got the idea) with about 4 threads machined off of it, and there is another bolt going through the windage tray side for the damper. It's all very solid, and so far is working great.
I'm not sure I'm visualizing this correctly: The motor/trans side of the damper is mounted to the trans case but via a longer bolt (from the windage tray)? Still one bolt holding the heim joint to the trans?
Also, how did you determine how much preload you'd need? i.e. when you drilled through the crossmember, what did you use as a guideline to determine the distance with relation to the preload of the damper? Correct me if I'm wrong, but does the damper setting (firm/soft) adjust the length of the shaft or not? If not, then I just as well assume you mounted it on the trans side first and then wherever it naturally extended to on the crossmember sufficed.
Update: Think I just answered my own question: http://www.ingallseng.com/Instructions/stiffy_adjustment.pdf
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The oem trans bolt goes through from the trans side towards the windage tray. It does not thread all the way through the windage tray, and I found that when I was looking under the car. I took a new bolt and tried to see if it would thread into the same hole from the windage tray side and how far (with out ever removing the trans bolt during this test). It had plenty of room and that is how we attached it. To be sure the trans bolt was torqued well, we took 3-4 threads off and put it back in again. Then we simply swung it up to the xmember and drilled a hole for the second mount. There was no preload put into it, and no adjustments made to it other then bolting it up.
