Car stalled and wont crank

[Saskatchewan17]

Woops... didn't see that you said "engine won't crank" and "smoke coming from SRI"

Facepalm... honestly it doesn't sound good, and you were PT boosting which is what blows these motors. I think it's toast, barely any compression at all (due to a bent rod ect.) so it won't fire up.

 

[shpankey]

Damn, I feel for you man. I fear this every single day, not a day goes by where I don't worry about it.

Your name though, too ironic to not point out.

 

[vtakk]

How 'bout this: Pull the plugs, pull the passenger side front wheel, undo the splash shield, get a ratchet on the crank bolt and try to turn it over manually? If you can find a buddy to shine a light down the plug holes and look for piston movement you'll know if the rotating assembly is capable of rotating any more. I wouldn't try to force a start until I'd ensured all the moving bits were still attached to and, in time with, one another. If there's a busted rod in there and it hasn't poked a hole in the block, I wouldn't give it the opportunity by spinning it on the starter or under combustion forces. If it passes the bottom end test, you can pull the valve cover and see if the cams appear to be in time with the pistons.

you need nice long shaft to go outside the fender to be able to use long enough "arm" to apply needed torque to rotate the crankshaft.
unless you can lift the car and get under it. is there enough space in MS3 to do this just removing the wheel/spl shield?

the other way is to use wheels to rotate it. put in 6th and push a little..
just make sure to remove all plugs to have no compression=no resistance.
hope it rotates.. means your trouble is not that bad. otherwise...

 

[matsuda]

the other way is to use wheels to rotate it. put in 6th and push a little..

You read my mind.

 

[Darth Vader]

you need nice long shaft to go outside the fender to be able to use long enough "arm" to apply needed torque to rotate the crankshaft.
unless you can lift the car and get under it. is there enough space in MS3 to do this just removing the wheel/spl shield?

the other way is to use wheels to rotate it. put in 6th and push a little..
just make sure to remove all plugs to have no compression=no resistance.
hope it rotates.. means your trouble is not that bad. otherwise...

I used a short extension on a 1/2 inch ratchet to turn the crank from within the fender. Not hard at all with the plugs out. There are 2 10 mm bolts and a push pin to be removed, the splash shield goes right out of the way and there's the bolt. You could do it by just removing the splash shield after cranking the wheel hard right but, why not just jack it up a bit, pull the wheel and make it easier?

Pushing the car in gear can put some strong forces on things, given the mass involved. I wouldn't want to risk cracking the block with a loose rod end by pushing about a ton and a half of mass at it.

 

[vtakk]

I used a short extension on a 1/2 inch ratchet to turn the crank from within the fender. Not hard at all with the plugs out. There are 2 10 mm bolts and a push pin to be removed, the splash shield goes right out of the way and there's the bolt. You could do it by just removing the splash shield after cranking the wheel hard right but, why not just jack it up a bit, pull the wheel and make it easier?

Pushing the car in gear can put some strong forces on things, given the mass involved. I wouldn't want to risk cracking the block with a loose rod end by pushing about a ton and a half of mass at it.

you don't push it like you stole it - you just swing it a little - that would be enough to see if there is any mechanical damage to the internals which prevents crankshaft to rotate.

 

[Darth Vader]

I get that but, the Titanic was only going about 20 knots when it was demolished by the iceberg. It's about the masses involved and the fragility of the engine block. It's only aluminium and a few mm thick.

Whatever the op decides, just be careful not to make the problem worse. If it is busted up inside, he may be lucky and only need to replace a few rods and pistons.

 

[zx2man]

Solid advise given to you goner,specialy from Darth..seems like a good gameplan to go with..give that a try and keep us posted. And most of all Goodluck

 

[goner]

Damn, I feel for you man. I fear this every single day, not a day goes by where I don't worry about it.

Your name though, too ironic to not point out.

lol

 

[goner]

the worst part is i work at night and ive been super busy this week...i have no time till monday to open her up ... i will post any updates.

 

[goner]

pulled the plugs...none are damaged. tried to turn the crank pulley bolt and it wont move...put the car in 6th gear and spun the tires and the pistons dont move...think the crank is broken

 

[vtakk]

pulled the plugs...none are damaged. tried to turn the crank pulley bolt and it wont move...put the car in 6th gear and spun the tires and the pistons dont move...think the crank is broken

don't be that negative.. it could easily be your flywheel.
which will explain why you can rotate drive shafts but cant move crankshaft.
I would start looking into starter/flywheel and then take engine apart

 

[matsuda]

don't be that negative.. it could easily be your flywheel.
which will explain why you can rotate drive shafts but cant move crankshaft.
I would start looking into starter/flywheel and then take engine apart

I'm trying to imagine how a problem with the flywheel would cause smoke to come pouring out of the intake.

 

[matsuda]

pulled the plugs...none are damaged.

With the plugs removed, try using a rod (or some kind of probe) to check the relative location of the pistons. #1 should be at the same "height" as #4 and #2 should be the same as #3.

If you have a broken rod, this will likely confirm it.

 

[vtakk]

I'm trying to imagine how a problem with the flywheel would cause smoke to come pouring out of the intake.

I forgot about that one.

 

[Darth Vader]

He put a wrench on the crank bolt and it won't move. This is a major internal engine malfunction, probably the busted rod, that's usually the first thing to break when an engine goes. Doubtful the crank is broken. If it's just a snapped rod and you got lucky and haven't beaten the inside of the engine block to death with a flailing rod end, you might just re-rod and piston it and be done.

 

[s-retire]

Has anyone been lucky enough to do that?

If it's just a snapped rod and you got lucky and haven't beaten the inside of the engine block to death with a flailing rod end, you might just re-rod and piston it and be done.

The way I see it the rod will do a lot of damage with the first rotation, long before it pokes a hole in the block. First it will strike the bottom of the cylinder bore making the reuse of the block questionable, then it will spin and break away the web on the main girdle. At a minimum wouldn't the block need to come out to properly do the machine work related to replacing the main caps?

The other things that will see quick damage is the oil nozzle and the BS.

I don't know, maybe someone else has been this lucky and could weigh in here, but my motor seized when the rod bolts broke and the connecting rod end wedged between the crank throw and the block.

 

[Sport6]

I worked at Ford for a little while and we had a Focus come in that would not crank and would not even jump start, it would roll but it locked up the tires when you let the clutch out. It turned out a keyed dowel (not really a dowel but a metal piece) from the bell housing worked its way loose and wedged itself against the flywheel. The car was obviously abused and evident of burnouts (rubber in the wheel wells and bald tires), so the stress from that most likely caused it to work its way out. Though unlike Mazda would have, Ford covered it, new flywheel and clutch.

Not saying thats your problem but similar situation and just sharing the weird cause of it.

 

[vtakk]

I worked at Ford for a little while and we had a Focus come in that would not crank and would not even jump start, it would roll but it locked up the tires when you let the clutch out. It turned out a keyed dowel (not really a dowel but a metal piece) from the bell housing worked its way loose and wedged itself against the flywheel. The car was obviously abused and evident of burnouts (rubber in the wheel wells and bald tires), so the stress from that most likely caused it to work its way out. Though unlike Mazda would have, Ford covered it, new flywheel and clutch.

Not saying thats your problem but similar situation and just sharing the weird cause of it.

I had similar issue with my civic back to Europe. But it was crashed starter gear causing flywheel not to rotate.

But in this case with all that smoke out from intake - it looks like engine is toasted and there is a need to remove head (at least) and look inside.

 

[08cosmic3]

Return to stock, push the car or have a friend tow you away from your house and call Mazda. You want to have it towed from a hwy, not your garage. Good luck.