fred_spitfire
Member
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- Black Protege 5
the ground and stuff is the relay i think... needed if you got DRLs.
HID Conversion and Projector Lamps
- Thread starter lacklustre484
- Start date
the ground and stuff is the relay i think... needed if you got DRLs.
BlackCherry
Member
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- 2002 Mazda Protege 5
You should make a "how to:" on the way you installed your hids
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
Same here. Lovin it! Will take a few pics of the install.
What does the extra wiring do for ya if no DRL's?
fred_spitfire
Member
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- Black Protege 5
i think they will make your low beams always on even at day? not sure about that thought.
ganzhimself
Member
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- 2012 Mazda 3 Skyactiv Hatch
What does the extra wiring do?
It protects the stock headlight wiring from the high current draw when the ballasts fire up. For these cars, it's really not a big deal from what I've gathered. I'd rather have spent the extra money and time to have it setup that way to protect the wiring, especially with the 55w kit. A little piece of mind is nice, even if it's not completely necessary.
It protects the stock headlight wiring from the high current draw when the ballasts fire up. For these cars, it's really not a big deal from what I've gathered. I'd rather have spent the extra money and time to have it setup that way to protect the wiring, especially with the 55w kit. A little piece of mind is nice, even if it's not completely necessary.
I just installed the DDM 35W 4300k HID kit into my P5. Took about 1 hour or so and it was all plug and play. It does require adjustment/aiming as the focal points and cut offs are different, but extremely pleased overall. I drive a lot of dark back country roads early in the morning that are packed with deer, feel like I have a fighting chance of seeing and reacting now. The 4300k are very bright, I might have gone a little higher, but i didn't want too blue of appearance. That is the only thing I might do differently.
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
Well, I went with the 35w kit. That's less than the oem halogens. We'll see how it works out.
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
good cutoff wouldn't throw much light there at all... the point of proper cutoff is to keep the light in front of you where it belongs.
that "BS power and grounding kit" ensures you get good power, and also stops you from frying your factory harness.
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ganzhimself
Member
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- 2012 Mazda 3 Skyactiv Hatch
I don't think the issue is with the current draw once the ballasts warm up, it's the initial draw that is much higher. I'm by no means an electrical engineer, but I do know that they do drain a significantly higher amount on startup... I chose to go with that "BS" harness because I'm running the 55w kit and because I've seen factory wiring harnesses get fried by HID kits in other vehicles. Here's some more info: http://faqlight.carpassion.info/headlamp-harness.html
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
Maybe I'll add it then. Is "BS" the company name that makes it? (boom01)
ganzhimself
Member
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- 2012 Mazda 3 Skyactiv Hatch
HA! I referred to them as BS in response to this post ^.
DDM sells one for $20. Well worth the price.
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
I was kidding about the BS company name but I will check out the ddm, thanks.
ganzhimself
Member
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- 2012 Mazda 3 Skyactiv Hatch
(braindead)
LOL. Yeah, I realized that after i posted. DDM has one of the better prices on the harnesses that I've seen.
The ManLaw
The Manlaw of Want
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- 15cx5 soon 20cx9
I got the 8000k @ 55w myself, nice and pretty blue, called xenon-vision on the box, cant remember the site i found them at. it was $110 shipped, not a single problem, easy as pie to install, and to top it off, a lot less wiring than the one shows on page 2. here's a few pics (one with my friends 240sx)
The left is the 240sx with 6000k@35w the right is me, thats a bit of a difference
The left is the 240sx with 6000k@35w the right is me, thats a bit of a difference
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
I'd take the extra wiring over risking the harness any day. the wiring to the pass side is hidden under my ADP anyway... and I tucked most of it along the factory harness besides...
lacklustre484
Member
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- 2002 Mazda Protege5
To everyone who has been "BS" ing about the wiring harness - its worth it. So is a little extra wiring work. As mentioned before, the wiring harness is meant to prevent the factory harness from frying. I know it looks like a lot of wires, but read the description - its not really that bad and in reality, they just supply you with too much wire because the car this kit is really meant for has a much larger engine compartment.
lacklustre484
Member
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- 2002 Mazda Protege5
Dumb question, but how do you write a "how to"?(lol2)
ganzhimself
Member
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- 2012 Mazda 3 Skyactiv Hatch
It's really not even all that much work...
Disconnect the neg. terminal from the battery
Attach the positive terminal of the wiring harness to the positive terminal on the fuse box
Attach the harness ground to a ground point on the chassis
Attach the power to the ballasts
Hook the factory harness to the ballasts to provide the "On" signal
Clean up the wiring with zip ties or electrical tape to keep it out of the way.
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
velcro tiewraps are AWESOME.
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
I'm trying but the ddm site is gayin out trying to checkout & add shipping...STUPID! I guess I'll have to call them after 11 when the west coast wakes up & gets to work.
