Sewing machine sound?
- Thread starter lp216
- Start date
No loss in power, but get faster with RPM.
Should I remove the heat shield and look at the manifold?
Definately worth a look.
Look around the runners for dark lines. Try to look underneath as well, get a mirror so you can check the entire manifold.
Mine wouldn't lose power until the car was at the highest running temp, when the mani gets hot the cracks expand. So if you're not noticing a loss in power it may not be it, but it never hurts to check the mani.
Look around the runners for dark lines. Try to look underneath as well, get a mirror so you can check the entire manifold.
Mine wouldn't lose power until the car was at the highest running temp, when the mani gets hot the cracks expand. So if you're not noticing a loss in power it may not be it, but it never hurts to check the mani.
Last edited:
tweakingmsp
Member
- :
- 2003.5 MazdaSPEED Protege
Also check to make sure all the bolts are still holding the mani on. I noticed I had two missing.
SteelWarrior
Member
- :
- 03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
lol im actually just noticing the same noise on mine. low rpm, it does it really loudly when i first start the car, then after about 5 mins i dont hear it anymore. im missing 1 bolt from the mani....hmmmm ill have to take a peak!
i had an xhaust leak when i first got my car, was a similar sound but ALOT nastier....was winter then so i found the leak easy
i had an xhaust leak when i first got my car, was a similar sound but ALOT nastier....was winter then so i found the leak easy
I've done quite a bit of research on this now, and the explanation that makes the most sense is that one of the valves is not getting oil right away on start up, what you are hearing is valve tap. After the engine warms up, oil finds it's way around the valve train to the noisy valve and no more tap.
I've been dealing with this for about a year and a half now. It's just embarrassing for the first few minutes of driving, but it serves as a good indicator of when it's safe to get on the gas.
I tried the Lucas Oil Stabilizer, which is like a molasses thick liquid you add to your oil that is supposed to eliminate dry starts. It had no affect.
At some point I may replace my heads, which would definitely solve the problem, but expensive and not a very simple job. Although part of me believes that there must be a reason oil isn't getting to the valve and seems like you could just remove the valve cover and figure it out.
The other guys I've talked to on the forum that had this problem haven't had much luck with simple fixes either.
I've been dealing with this for about a year and a half now. It's just embarrassing for the first few minutes of driving, but it serves as a good indicator of when it's safe to get on the gas.
I tried the Lucas Oil Stabilizer, which is like a molasses thick liquid you add to your oil that is supposed to eliminate dry starts. It had no affect.
At some point I may replace my heads, which would definitely solve the problem, but expensive and not a very simple job. Although part of me believes that there must be a reason oil isn't getting to the valve and seems like you could just remove the valve cover and figure it out.
The other guys I've talked to on the forum that had this problem haven't had much luck with simple fixes either.
If that's true then there is a restriction in the head. Probably some carbon build up in the flow channels. Try some motor flush or seafoam in the oil. Just a few minutes of idling right before you change the oil will do. I do this from time to time but you should not do it to often as you can also was away the lube to the rings. Just a little now that you have the problem should be enough, keep clean oil in it after that and the problem should not come back.
kingpin7666
Rough for no reason
- :
- 03 mazdaspeed protege
Its a loose bolt check your manifold
So I decided it was worth the 10 minutes of my time to remove the heat shield and look for cracks. No sh*t, as soon as I remove the shield, a bolt hits the ground and the two holes on the driver's side of the manifold were vacant. Two missing manifold bolts.
So I put the bolt that fell to the ground back in with some anti-seize and sure enough, ticking is gone. Can't believe I've just lived with the stupid ticking for over a year for something so simple.
Now to find a bolt to replace the one that is gone. Guess I'll hit up the pick and pull tomorrow.
Thanks to all the guys that suggested the manifold.
So I put the bolt that fell to the ground back in with some anti-seize and sure enough, ticking is gone. Can't believe I've just lived with the stupid ticking for over a year for something so simple.
Now to find a bolt to replace the one that is gone. Guess I'll hit up the pick and pull tomorrow.
Thanks to all the guys that suggested the manifold.
Yay I got. (dance)
lilbear4u32
Member
- :
- Mazda, Protoge 5
It sounds like you have issues with your valve lash, if it goes faster when you rev your car, I am 100% sure its that!
It sounds like you have issues with your valve lash, if it goes faster when you rev your car, I am 100% sure its that!
... it could also be explained by a missing bolt or cracked manifold, as the 'tick' you would hear from that runner of the manifold would, logically, increase in frequency with engine speed. I had a cracked manifold and a missing bolt, just recently replaced them.
