CulRidr's MP3 N/A build (~150whp goal)

Nice.... one thing, avoid the urge to drive it untuned.... the stock computer is going to have a s*** fit over the compression, cams, head work, manifolds etc...

ETA on engine back in car?
I'm not pushing it beyond 3500RPM before 1500kms...so no worries there. A reflashed ECU with a base tune will be what I start with, and then I get a 2nd reflash when it's ready after we do some datalogging.
I'm hoping the key turns on Friday, but that depends on the transmission which should be done Thursday.

Did you paint that head? Those ports look neither ported nor polished LOL. Supposed to be smooth bro! Tell the shop that sandblasting takes place before the polishing! :p
Not painted, just cleaned.
The intake ports are definitely P&P'd, and smooth as a baby's butt!

IMG_1710.jpg
 
I'm not pushing it beyond 3500RPM before 1500kms...so no worries there. A reflashed ECU with a base tune will be what I start with, and then I get a 2nd reflash when it's ready after we do some datalogging.
I'm hoping the key turns on Friday, but that depends on the transmission which should be done Thursday.
Have a chat to your engineers about a run in plan... I'm no expert on running a built motor in - but i know that limiting yourself to low revs is no good (and neither is thrashing the balls off it)...

pretty sure you need to vary your engine speed quite significantly i think

could be wrong though.

chat to your experts!
 
Have a chat to your engineers about a run in plan... I'm no expert on running a built motor in - but i know that limiting yourself to low revs is no good (and neither is thrashing the balls off it)...

pretty sure you need to vary your engine speed quite significantly i think

could be wrong though.

chat to your experts!

and engine load from what I understand.
 
and engine load from what I understand.

true...from what i've been told the best way to do it is on a dyno (preferably engine dyno) where it can be stopped, and checked should anything go wrong.....even heard of some people who are so paranoid about it that they don't even crank the engine over for the first time until its strapped to a dyno...

Of course, it could all be pure paranoia...you hear so many freakin' theories about engine break-in process
 
I'm not pushing it beyond 3500RPM before 1500kms...so no worries there. A reflashed ECU with a base tune will be what I start with, and then I get a 2nd reflash when it's ready after we do some datalogging.
I'm hoping the key turns on Friday, but that depends on the transmission which should be done Thursday.


Not painted, just cleaned.
The intake ports are definitely P&P'd, and smooth as a baby's butt!

IMG_1710.jpg
you realize you might get fuel pooling issues with the ports that smooth right?
 
Have a chat to your engineers about a run in plan... I'm no expert on running a built motor in - but i know that limiting yourself to low revs is no good (and neither is thrashing the balls off it)...

pretty sure you need to vary your engine speed quite significantly i think

could be wrong though.

chat to your experts!
My engine builder said to not go crazy on revs for the first while (nothing more then 3500-4000), but definitely vary the load on it. Not sure what to do about throttle input though (go full throttle sometimes, but not rev the piss out of it...
As you said, everyone thinks differently on the matter, but most agree to not bash on it for the first bit.

you realize you might get fuel pooling issues with the ports that smooth right?
Never heard of that...is that a REAL issue? (confused)
where's the speedo gear?
Right here...it was in the box next to the LSD, waiting for the LSD to be machined.
IMG_1666.jpg
 
Never heard of that...is that a REAL issue? (confused)

The theory is a slightly rough port will promote fuel atomization. I wouldn't concern yourself too much, so long as it's not lapped to a perfect mirror finish it should be fine. If in doubt speak to the guys who did the work.
 
Last edited:
^That would be speedcircuit. Dana (Dino?) says they make products, and wouldn't really elaborate more when I was asking him a bunch of questions...

Speaking of my head, Maxx is tempting me with springs...GRR!
 
Well Dana knows more bout these things than theman does. And I think the guys that restored the head do too. Don't fret ;)
 
I'm not, but it was still mentioned so extra info for others to read is always good.
And I'm really considering Maxx's offer for his "old" Eibach single valve springs, and install them before the head gets put onto the motor. That would take care of anything I'd ever want to do to the head...
 
Well, it looks as though I will REALLY have a complete head after all, as MaxxMazda offered me a good deal on some EVS singles, and the shop who did the work on my head is going to give me a pretty good deal on getting them installed. I think that would be THE finishing touch for the larger cams, preventing valve float and letting me push the redline a little higher then expected without going nuts (due to a "stock" bottom end).

On another note, the bottom end is being built right now, with the only snag being that an o-ring is supposedly missing from the rebuild kit for the oil pump, delaying things 2 more days. This isn't that big a deal though since the dealership has been waiting on a replacement part for the transmission - I just found out about this - which will have taken a week to get, and pushing the transmission being ready to Tuesday or Wednesday.

Latest pictures:

Picture004.jpg


Picture003-1.jpg
 
My engine builder said to not go crazy on revs for the first while (nothing more then 3500-4000), but definitely vary the load on it. Not sure what to do about throttle input though (go full throttle sometimes, but not rev the piss out of it...
As you said, everyone thinks differently on the matter, but most agree to not bash on it for the first bit.


Never heard of that...is that a REAL issue? (confused)

Right here...it was in the box next to the LSD, waiting for the LSD to be machined.
IMG_1666.jpg
then why is the bearing installed on the diff?
 
Well, it looks as though I will REALLY have a complete head after all, as MaxxMazda offered me a good deal on some EVS singles, and the shop who did the work on my head is going to give me a pretty good deal on getting them installed. I think that would be THE finishing touch for the larger cams, preventing valve float and letting me push the redline a little higher then expected without going nuts (due to a "stock" bottom end).

On another note, the bottom end is being built right now, with the only snag being that an o-ring is supposedly missing from the rebuild kit for the oil pump, delaying things 2 more days. This isn't that big a deal though since the dealership has been waiting on a replacement part for the transmission - I just found out about this - which will have taken a week to get, and pushing the transmission being ready to Tuesday or Wednesday.

Latest pictures:

Picture004.jpg


Picture003-1.jpg
valvetrain is the least of your worries, the stock bottom end can't reliably handle more than 7000rpms for a long period of time because of high side loads (especially since the stock parts aren't designed for extended high rpm operation)

I didn't have time to read most of this thread, but did you get the bottom end balanced?
 

New Threads and Articles

Back