CulRidr's MP3 N/A build (~150whp goal)

Transmission left the dealership to get done today with the following parts:
Welded Rev3 LSD GSY1-27-190
Speedo gear G501-17-341A
LSD Bearings G5R0-27-350B
Shaft lock nuts F520-17-628/G501-17-629A
New 5th gear (from 626) G560-17-611C/G514-17-308
Clutch release fork KL03-16-520A
Clutch release fork pin F202-16-102A
1st/2nd gear updated shift fork GC011740XB
3rd/4th gear updated shift fork G5011740YA

Only problem is that I don't have any pictures of the forks or LSD...I'll try and see if I can check out the shop before they put all the parts in so that I can have a record of all of this...
 
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Other small update:
Cam gears arrived today, as has an NSN IM spacer I found on another forum a couple of days ago; something I always wanted for some reason (apparently it might add a shade of torque due to longer runners), so that part is also taken care of...
Things are finally starting to come together :)
 
Ya I know what it's for ;)
Just saying that I always wanted one...and now installing it will be a breeze!
 
Here is a bit of extra info regarding the 5th gear swap:

Here is a tool I found on iMazda...and other data found on protegeFAQ.net and iMazda...
http://www.gearboxman.co.uk/inforatios.html#download

normal 5th gear ratio is 0.755
New 5th gear (which I'm 99% sure comes from the 626) is 0.717

With the tool, speed at 3000RPM for stock is 67.6MPH
With the tool, speed at 3000RPM for "626" is 71.2MPH

Calculating the slope from those curves means that for a given speed (say, 75MPH), your RPMs would go down from 3330 to 3162, which is a 5.3% drop sustained throughout the gear, or exactly what I was anticipating...
 
Just enough to get a couple of extra MPGs, and lower the drone a little bit, which will be just perfect for me. I wouldn't have done it had it cost more then it did ;)
 
Give Mack from Emerald Performance a call. He can get Jen-vey ITB's with the correct manifold with fuel rail and injectors for your car. 954-682-7281. He is also the dealer for the emerald standalone.
 
If you want a little more, you could always get the 626 final ratio, too... it's pretty low, at 3.8 or something. Mine used to do 200 km/h at below 6000 rpm (whereas the Proty box does 200 km/h at near redline, already).
 
Final drive can only be changed by changing the ring gear. If you do that you'll also need a new secondary shaft as the output splines are a part of the shaft itself and not interchangeable.
 
Transmission parts pix before they get dropped in the transmission (you have seen the other parts already):

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It's only been a few hours, but another update is due:

Went to Tech3 this morning to check out the shop and the work that was done. Everything was wrapped but I had a chance to take a quick look at the completed work and you can tell that the money was well "invested". The head was MINT, the block looks new, you could see the very small bits machined off of the rotating assembly following the balancing. Here is a picture of all the parts in the truck bed just before it left for Elite!

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Small update on the transmission; the LSD will be machined in house to fit the speedo gear for a lot less then what I thought, so that doesn't cause any problems. The only thing that is slightly holding things up is that a small part was broken when the took it apart; the guide plate assembly, updated part# F52017480K. Everything else was in good working order and there was no indication that a rebuild or other parts were required. The transmission should be ready by Thursday, so if Elite starts to put the motor back together over the next couple of days, the key should be turned over on Friday

As for the tune, I just got off the phone with PSI Tuning and the ECU probably won't be ready for Friday, but babying the car until it has it (and is properly broken in) will be sufficient to not blow the motor.
 
Went to Elite at lunch to pick up some parts I'm selling off, and took a closer look at some of the parts and DAMN are they ever pretty

The block, bored. The rust is still "there", but it was acid dipped so once the block is reassembled and sealed off, a wire brush and some engine paint will make it look gorgeous!

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Balanced rotating assembly (Crankshaft, rods, flywheel). Notice the very small nicks on the bottom of the rods, as well as the ONE spot on the lower left of the flywheel.

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Intake manifold and throttle body thermal gaskets:

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A first look at both sides of Focus' cam gears:

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The head just about ready to be dropped in once those cam gears are put on the camshafts (I forgot to take a pic of the underside of it where the little chips were seen, but that's probably a good thing seeing as the camshaft bolts weren't tightly secured and I wouldn't want to mess something up, especially since it was still partially wrapped).

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And finally, a GREAT look at the port&polished intake and exhaust ports all cleaned up...

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I told you the twiggies would go to good use! And my jaw dropped when I saw what the head looked like, especially knowing what it looked like before!
 
Nice.... one thing, avoid the urge to drive it untuned.... the stock computer is going to have a s*** fit over the compression, cams, head work, manifolds etc...

ETA on engine back in car?
 
Did you paint that head? Those ports look neither ported nor polished LOL. Supposed to be smooth bro! Tell the shop that sandblasting takes place before the polishing! :p
 

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