Rush in a Car Crash! (MSP Totaled)

[gr?]

while coddling a MAF and door sill.

Almost sig worthy.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

Almost sig worthy.

more than...

 

[msp 2212]

another tear :'(

 

[Deatschwerks]

Rush... If the car is fixable, and they total it, after they pay you out, buy it back from the insurance company, A close friend was in an accident with his STi, it was totalled, they gave him 23k, then he bought the car back for 2900, then turned around and sold it for 8k because the motor was still perfect, and so was the interior. Long story short, get your car back if you can

 

[TheDirtyGoatee]

I understand I am WAY behind on this thread (I sadly don't check the MSP forums as much as I should). I saw this on FB and made a comment there but in respect, let me say here that yes, your MSP was the shining star of MSP's. Between yours and S.A.MSP's, I don't know which I liked better. Both are gone though. Glad you made it out. I've been seeing MSP's for sale left and right. If I didn't owe more than I should be paying for mine, I'd sell you it. However it's a Spicy and they are cursed anyhow.

For now, take care. Enjoy the ES for what it's worth. Perhaps the parts you carry over to it may keep the MSP alive.

 

[my3needsaname]

Rush... If the car is fixable, and they total it, after they pay you out, buy it back from the insurance company, A close friend was in an accident with his STi, it was totalled, they gave him 23k, then he bought the car back for 2900, then turned around and sold it for 8k because the motor was still perfect, and so was the interior. Long story short, get your car back if you can

Damn that's a good ass deal! I give props to him for that one.

 

[GhostMercury]

so any new updates on the car rush...I loved your car

 

[Laser Blue]

I think I may have complicated my explanation beyond reason....(boom03)

The 80% rule, more simply:
If the insurance company puts the car's value at 10 grand, then they'll spend up to 8,000 to repair it.
If they put the car's value at 8 grand, the repair cost can't exceed 6,400... etc.

One other thing... if they say they'll spend 8,000 to fix the car and your favorite shop says it will cost 9,000 to do it right, you may be able to sign a release and get the car on a clear title and a check for the 8 grand (less your deductible). Then you can go out of pocket the extra thousand dollars and have your car repaired. That may be cheaper in the long run than moving parts to another car, etc. AND THEN YOU COULD BE THE ENVY OF ALL THE REST OF US AGAIN!!!

 

[ZoomZoomH]

oh my, just found this thread, i'm sorry about your car cindy, and am very glad that you are ok

well first things first, i think the number one thing you should do now is to get the maximum amounts of money out of the wreckage, whether that be just totalling it, or buying the car back and part out and sell all the parts

and ONLY THEN, should you think about what to do next. if i were you, i would probably wait after you graduate (so drive your dad's ES for a while) before picking up another car. and personally i would pick a car OTHER than the MSP for your next car, preferably something that's Non-FWD, lol

good luck to ya

 

[Rush]

You know what will you cheer you up? Squirrels. I know how much you hate them.

Myself and an engineer were talking over lunch yesterday. We want to go to Millersville U, by the pond, and set up a contraption to bait a squirrel and send it flying in air 30-50'. I don't think squirrels can swim, so we can catapult them into the island in the middle of the pond.

If this doesn't bring a smile to your face, I'll wear a thong on my head and walk around campus.

Dude, that'd be effin' awesome. Seriously.

I think I may have complicated my explanation beyond reason....(boom03)

The 80% rule, more simply:
If the insurance company puts the car's value at 10 grand, then they'll spend up to 8,000 to repair it.
If they put the car's value at 8 grand, the repair cost can't exceed 6,400... etc.

One other thing... if they say they'll spend 8,000 to fix the car and your favorite shop says it will cost 9,000 to do it right, you may be able to sign a release and get the car on a clear title and a check for the 8 grand (less your deductible). Then you can go out of pocket the extra thousand dollars and have your car repaired. That may be cheaper in the long run than moving parts to another car, etc. AND THEN YOU COULD BE THE ENVY OF ALL THE REST OF US AGAIN!!!

I understood what you meant! .. Tho' I did have to read that first longer post a couple times till I was sure, LOL. Anyhoo, thanks for the explanation! It definitely makes sense because the adjuster called me the day after the accident, before he was even finished tallying up the MSP's repair cost, saying he knew it would be totaled -- because the car's black book value is $8500, and the repairs were already up to $7000 (and he hadn't even counted the rear or any potential suspension damage).

I'm really hoping to hear from the insurance company today with some numbers. Having to wait this long is making me absolutely NUTS. I realize most 'normal' human beings in the world would be all -- WTF-ever, who cares, car's gone, life goes on. I'm sitting here with the vague knowledge that if there was some sort of miracle, my MSP might be recoverable, all -- SWEET JESUS CAN YOU JUST TELL ME FOR SURE FOR SURE FOR SURE WTF IS GOING ON WITH THE EQUIVALENT OF MY FIRST BORN CHILD!?!

 

[Rush]

So here's a question for all of us, while we're sitting around waiting to hear the news on the MSP.

I really do feel badly about taking my dad's Protege for as long as I'd probably wind up needing it -- so I think I'm gonna start looking at some used cars, just for another option.

Here are my criteria:
- First off, I would like to make this purchase as worthwhile as possible .. as in, the used car I pick up now could be used as my 'beater' when I get my 'step up' car in a year-ish. So I'm not looking for a car that would 'get me by' for a year .. and then explode.
- The car needs to be either a sedan or a coupe. I don't do wagons.
- The car needs to be a manual. I can't stand automatics anymore.
- The car needs to be a bit on the smaller side. I'm just a little guy, so I don't do well in cars that are more like small tanks.
- Good gas mileage, for the love of GOD.
- Something that's RELIABLE. If it has some pep to its step, that's great, but it's not a requirement.

Please note -- I WILL NOT BUY another MSP, P5, Speed3, or something like that. While I love(d) my MSP, we ALL know that they come stock with more than their fair share of problems. That's not something I want to have to deal with in a 'beater' car. And as I said before, I don't do wagons, so I will not get a P5. And people, PLEASE, do not tell me to get a Speed3 because I CANNOT AFFORD IT!

I've been eyeballing a couple older Subaru WRX and RS cars. I think something along those lines might do well.

 

[hollar1211]

the adjuster called me the day after the accident, before he was even finished tallying up the MSP's repair cost, saying he knew it would be totaled -- because the car's black book value is $8500

Do you know where your adjuster got that $8500 "black book" number from? That's a pretty sweet number. The laws in PA might be different, but when i totalled my Integra in NY two years ago, I didn't have to buy it back at all. They asked me if I wanted to keep it, left it in my driveway, and cut me a check.

 

[ZoomZoomH]

how much are you looking to spend in this 'beater car'? do you plan to get a loan for it?

 

[Ricktalife]

I've been eyeballing a couple older Subaru WRX and RS cars. I think something along those lines might do well.

that's a good choice. though i hear they have tranny problems after 50k miles or so :\

 

[TheDirtyGoatee]

Get a Miata. I hear they're a blast to drive and you can throw a rock and hit one that's for sale. Or get an older Protege. I had a 94 with a CAI and short shifter and it was a peppy ass little car.

Just some ideas. Not sure if you were wanting to stay Mazda or not.

 

[MSP2k3]

If you are looking for somethign reliable, I would look at some Honda models. I would say they 'can' be some of the most hassle-free cars you can buy. Good gas mileage also.

 

[THE Phen]

^ What he said. I have 180k on my Civic, and aside from it's attempt to drink a big puddle of water, I've never had a single issue with it.

Plus, if you do decide to mod it in anyway, at least it'll respond to some of the mods better than the effing FS-DE.

 

[evilmonkeyMSP]

get a 00-01 Subie 2.5RS coupe...soooo hot!

 

[Rush]

Do you know where your adjuster got that $8500 "black book" number from? That's a pretty sweet number. The laws in PA might be different, but when i totalled my Integra in NY two years ago, I didn't have to buy it back at all. They asked me if I wanted to keep it, left it in my driveway, and cut me a check.

No clue where they got the number from. I guess the magical land of insurance company figures? LOL.

how much are you looking to spend in this 'beater car'? do you plan to get a loan for it?

Absolutely NO loan. I want to take the money I get from my MSP, turn around and buy a car with the cash, free and clear. I'd like to keep it under $7K if possible.

If you are looking for somethign reliable, I would look at some Honda models. I would say they 'can' be some of the most hassle-free cars you can buy. Good gas mileage also.

Honda was on my list to eyeball, too. And I think anything responds better to modding than an FS-DE engine, hahahah.

 

[bradboyd80]

Honda Civic. I don't think ANYTHING is a better deal. Used ones are cheap, run forever, and awesome on gas. I love the subby's, but don't expect more than 22mpg's for a WRX, or 27ish for the rs. Not to mention 5x the price of a civic. And in case you're wondering.....civics can be good in the snow. I drove mine from Florida, easily through a foot of snow in Canada, to Alaska. Then drove it up there for 4 yrs. Then from Alaska to Missouri. That thing was a "tank". My .02

Edit: In case it matters....I also had plenty of mods (I, H, E, etc) and still got 30mpgs.