Cp-e Boost Cut Elimantor Flash, Everyone Please Read

Status
Not open for further replies.
Engine knock and low a/f ratios do not trigger a cut. It may cut if you overboost, but if a flash is even a consideration, you should be monitoring these that yourself with a dashhawk or ap or gauge or w/e...
 
For you to say that raising the boost cut parameter is dangerous but removing it entirely is not is just ridiculous. Boost cut itself will not hurt the engine... sure it will hurt performance but it won't pop the engine.
 
For you to say that raising the boost cut parameter is dangerous but removing it entirely is not is just ridiculous. Boost cut itself will not hurt the engine... sure it will hurt performance but it won't pop the engine.

boost cut at 19 psi a few times and than come back to me and say it's not dangerous. It was put in there by mazda to protect the engine, the one boost cut that doesnt make sense is the cold weather boost cut, we have turbo'd cars, it should drive better in cold weather.

The stock perameters that boost cut is set at is a low psi, low fuel pressure etc level, raising those levels and keeping a potential boost cut in the ECU so it might boost cut at much higher perameters is a very dangerous thing. People have thrown rods at stock boost cut.
 
Alex - NOBODY has EVER popped their motor due to boost cut. Never. Where do you get this information. Thin air or do you pull it out of your ass?

Boost cut is a PREVENTIVE measure to ensure you don't over boost and pop your motor. It will not hurt your car. I have boost cut so many times it's not funny when dialing in my MBC. It's a safety feature.

The dangerous part with boost cut is taking it out completely like a BCD, Map Clamp and your cherished SB does. They all lie to your ECU giving it a MAX boost it will ever see (Like the max the ECU will see is 15psi and no higher no matter what). So the ECU will never see if you over boost to 30psi and cut it before you blow - thus you simply go pop! The AP just raises the Boost cut to like 22 or 23 psi. 22/23PSI will not pop your motor so if say you loose your line on your WG and you spike to 30PSI your cars ECU will see the boost and hopefully cut before you pop. There is a one to two second delay so if you actually over boost to 30psi even with the AP you could still go boom before the Boost Cut happens.

The cold weather fix is a completely different animal all together. If you only have the flash you will STILL boost cut at 19psi because the flash does not raise the boost limit, but fixes the cold weather cut which is IAT related I believe. I'm not sure if I have personally ever got the cold weather cut or not. If I have it's not a Cut like Boost Cut but more of a heavy stutter at 3-4k rpms that scares you into letting off the gas. Boost cut is a single "wham" cut much like hitting a rev limiter.

Once again you really really need to know what you're talking about before opening your mouth. Boost cut does NOT harm your motor, it prevents you from over boosting. Your comment is like saying a Rev Limiter will hurt your motor if you over rev when in fact it can save your motor.
 
Last edited:
boost cut at 19 psi a few times and than come back to me and say it's not dangerous. It was put in there by mazda to protect the engine, the one boost cut that doesnt make sense is the cold weather boost cut, we have turbo'd cars, it should drive better in cold weather.

The stock perameters that boost cut is set at is a low psi, low fuel pressure etc level, raising those levels and keeping a potential boost cut in the ECU so it might boost cut at much higher perameters is a very dangerous thing. People have thrown rods at stock boost cut.

I have never once in any type of forums, read more missinformed posts by a user. You seem completely full of yourself and do not know much of what you are talking about.
 
I have never once in any type of forums, read more missinformed posts by a user. You seem completely full of yourself and do not know much of what you are talking about.

and you are full of knowledge how? I have posted everything and stand by it, show me something or shut up? Don't just come in here stirring up the pot, what an ass.
 
Is this thing safe? WIthout the boost cut in cold weather can you cause any serious damage to the car?

The cold weather boost cut is unknown as to why it's even there, a turbo will run better and more efficiently in cold weather. I was getting boost cut like crazy though, under 40 degrees outside, and going full throttle, I would cut around 8-10 psi every time, it was so annoying.

So other than cold weather, the other reason boost cut will engage is for over boosting, but that is why if we are modding we should really be monitoring our boost and knock anyway with a dashhawk or guages.

p.s. Call the guys up at CP-E, they are always helpful and explain everything, they don't ever ignore any potential customers.
 
This is a tricky car.. it seems to me that going with cobb might be safer overall than eliminating boost cut altogether from the ecu. I think its awesome you can finally run your car how you want and aren't getting any more cut. but id be careful that you dont overboost one of these days..
I'm sticking with my accessport
 
This is a tricky car.. it seems to me that going with cobb might be safer overall than eliminating boost cut altogether from the ecu. I think its awesome you can finally run your car how you want and aren't getting any more cut. but id be careful that you dont overboost one of these days..
I'm sticking with my accessport

yeah, it's a tricky car, but I try and follow the guys that have figured it out better than the other guy. I think overboosting is just an issue we all have to watch out for.
 
Christian has said that he has raised the threshold on the Cold Cut in all the latest maps. There have been tests done with no cut to prove it.

Down about half way Christian states that he adjusted the threshold higher is all and didn't completely eliminate it like CPE did. Then lower in the post he clearly states that the new 103 Maps have the Cold Cut fix added too them.

You really need to have all your information straight before you start running your mouth.

I've been doing my own testing after having the final AP 1.03 map flashed a few days ago and it's clear to me the guys at Cobb have either greatly reduced the chance for boost cut or eliminated it altogether. Even with the beta 1.03f map, I would get boost cut from time to time (usually in 3rd or 4th when going WOT or even close to it) but I have not experienced it once yet after going with the final 1.03 map.

As for the OP, I'm glad he got his CPE re-flash sorted out as even when stock, the ECU does tend to cut boost under certain situations but I'd say that his car was perhaps an extreme case and is by no means, representative of most other owner's experiences (myself included). I'd add that his logic in regards to why the boost cut is there and what is deemed "safer" is seriously flawed and maybe he should get the full scoop from CPE or Cobb before he misinforms others.
 
i find myself going blind reading repetitive arguments on this thread, and still have a problem getting basic definitions.

when i see "boost cut", it makes me think of the wastegate opening either longer or sooner than normal to prevent boost. the way im reading the rest of the posts, however, it makes me think that ppl mean it's creating more boost while not compensating by adding more fuel. the reason i think that is because i keep reading "boost cut...engine blowup". and if the boost is cutting (cut by definition meaning taking away), and the fuel doesn't compensate, then all that should happen is you get too much fuel. and that's not going to damage the engine in the same fashion taht a lean mixture would. in fact, it would probvably end up stalling

and as for why this "boost cut" is happening in cold weather, it probably has to do with preventing too much power output from the engine. cuz colder temps means denser air, which in turn means more fuel added, which in turn means more power. and i don't see anything wrong with mazda trying to prevent their car from outputting too much power, it aides in engine life.

and as for turbos working better in cold weather, ummm...what? if anything makes a turbo work better it's replacing the oil (unless it's ball-bearing or something along those lines). cold weather is going to make the oil sludge around, and that would end up hurting the turbocharger more if it's spooling up w/out getting the oil it needs to lubricate everything properly.
 
i find myself going blind reading repetitive arguments on this thread, and still have a problem getting basic definitions.

when i see "boost cut", it makes me think of the wastegate opening either longer or sooner than normal to prevent boost. the way im reading the rest of the posts, however, it makes me think that ppl mean it's creating more boost while not compensating by adding more fuel. the reason i think that is because i keep reading "boost cut...engine blowup". and if the boost is cutting (cut by definition meaning taking away), and the fuel doesn't compensate, then all that should happen is you get too much fuel. and that's not going to damage the engine in the same fashion taht a lean mixture would. in fact, it would probvably end up stalling

and as for why this "boost cut" is happening in cold weather, it probably has to do with preventing too much power output from the engine. cuz colder temps means denser air, which in turn means more fuel added, which in turn means more power. and i don't see anything wrong with mazda trying to prevent their car from outputting too much power, it aides in engine life.

and as for turbos working better in cold weather, ummm...what? if anything makes a turbo work better it's replacing the oil (unless it's ball-bearing or something along those lines). cold weather is going to make the oil sludge around, and that would end up hurting the turbocharger more if it's spooling up w/out getting the oil it needs to lubricate everything properly.

Let me give you the history on this that only the old timers on the forums will know.

Last Winter - Most of us where running MBC/BCD at best. The only person I know that was running a CPE SB was Laloosh (prior to that he had a MBC/BCD).

So what started happening was that those in cold weather who where running right started to get cut in cold weather. This was not not BOOST Cut as some think, but a heavy stutter that forces you from fear to let off the gas. So everyone spent all kinds of time to try and figure out the issue.

This is where Laloosh in all his stupidity blamed CPE and their SB and sold all his CPE parts and got banned from all the forums due to his verbally slamming CPE every chance he got. This is also where the Coil Spring Stretch was born as well as the Fuel Pump being the cause of stuttering.

Everyone tried plugs, coils spring stretch, MrGuy designed the CDFP fix but NOTHING fixed this issue. Then CPE determined the cut was from the IAT being out of whack below 40degs for some reason and the ECU was cutting due to it. However, the fix required you to have to cut wires and such. Then spring came and people forgot about the cold weather cut.

So here we are now, winter again and guess what? The Cut is back, the CDFP didn't fix it and we're back to square one. However, both CPE and Cobb found the issue over the summer and now we have a fix. CPE completely removed the issue and Cobb just raised the cut limit higher.

Now is the Cold Weather cut a safety feature? I have no clue. CPE has not said nor has Cobb (though Cobb as said they left it in as a safety precaution).

Boost Cut is NOT the same thing. However boost cut, like a rev limiter, is there to save your engine. Boost Cut will not hurt anything nor will bouncing a rev limiter. You don't want to make a habit of hitting it, but it's there to save you. The cold weather cut is something else I believe. I'm not sure if I have ever had the cut but if I have then it's nothing more than a heavy stutter like a very heavy misfire (Those that have had the cut can chime in here if it's something different).

I hope that answers your questions?
 
Last edited:
I just flashed my car with the v103 map and derspi is right... cobb has done magic with it. There is no boost cut or cold weather cut or whatever you want to call it.
I highly recommend to anyone looking to go with the AP they have really figured it out. Its safe and really easy to use.
 
this thread is a mess which i believe the OP (big headed i might say) is actually taking too much to heart... basic fact is that there is boost cut in this car..both CPE and COBB have said to work but CPE seems to be 100% while most COBB users still seem to be experiencing boost cut.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have a question i run stock boost levels. And i have some sort of cut. My mods are cpe full turbo back, injen intake, cpe front mount and some other mods. Is cut that i have boost cut or fuel cut. Because I've been reading on this forum and other forums but is seems no one know the exact answer. And i can't figure it out. Sorry for the thread steal.
 
Boost cut/fuel cut is really the same thing. Your TBE is allowing you to run more boost. Coupled with the cold weather you will get cut. You need one of these solutions discussed.
 
What i've found works really well, and safe, is a mrlilguy fuel pump and an Accessport. No cut at all and you can change and monitor anything you need.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

New Threads and Articles

Back