Laloosh gets tuned

Ok maybe im saying it wrong or maybe poeple are not understanding what im saying.

Stock exhaust. Manifold/turbo/downpip with primary cat (sensor before and after cat)/midpipe with cat/catback with resonators and muffler.

My exahust. Manifold/turbo downpipe with aftermarket high flow cat ( sensor before and after the cat/ straight pipe with a muffler back.

IF i were to drill into the downpipe to place a bung btwn the turbo and the primary cat, all the left over material will go into the downpipe and get stuck on the cat. The only way to do this safly is to tap it out or turn the downpipe upside down....aka being forced to remove it from the car. lol something i dont ever want to do again.

as for the tune, im going to edit it and post numbered results
 
Is your wideband the same as this? Link Because this is $100 cheaper.

EDIT: I realized that the product from the ebay link is reffering to a guage only and not the complete set.
 
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Ok maybe im saying it wrong or maybe poeple are not understanding what im saying.

Stock exhaust. Manifold/turbo/downpip with primary cat (sensor before and after cat)/midpipe with cat/catback with resonators and muffler.

My exahust. Manifold/turbo downpipe with aftermarket high flow cat ( sensor before and after the cat/ straight pipe with a muffler back.

IF i were to drill into the downpipe to place a bung btwn the turbo and the primary cat, all the left over material will go into the downpipe and get stuck on the cat. The only way to do this safly is to tap it out or turn the downpipe upside down....aka being forced to remove it from the car. lol something i dont ever want to do again.

as for the tune, im going to edit it and post numbered results

Speak to an exhaust shop who is familiar with this type of sitsuation. They may be able to vacuum out the metal that falls in.
 
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So theoretically you could have gone with an APEXI NEO, MBC and a BCD.

ive been saying this months. The only reason i switch from my mbc/bcd combo to the ems was because i though i needed a tune, when in fact i was running out of fuel with the stock pump. If i bought the car today. turbosmart mbc, map clamp, 18psi, fuel pump, ic and wouldnt even touch a/f ratios, the car gets lean down low, but i never race or push the car below 3500rpm.
 
ive been saying this months. The only reason i switch from my mbc/bcd combo to the ems was because i though i needed a tune, when in fact i was running out of fuel with the stock pump. If i bought the car today. turbosmart mbc, map clamp, 18psi, fuel pump, ic and wouldnt even touch a/f ratios, the car gets lean down low, but i never race or push the car below 3500rpm.

Two questions.
Where can the map clamp be bought?

And why go with a map clamp over the BCD?

Oh, and you can put your CP-E standback unit up for sale. I'm sure someone will buy it.
 
Two questions.
Where can the map clamp be bought?

And why go with a map clamp over the BCD?

Oh, and you can put your CP-E standback unit up for sale. I'm sure someone will buy it.

im not sure why people chose the map clamp over the bcd, i dont follow any of those threads. PM driver or tru-boost. As for selling the standback, i will once cobb comes out, or cpe version 2 which will actually do alot more than version one. I leaning towards cobb.
 
Laloosh,
I am not at all familiar with the Dash Hawk.
The first post shows two images of your recorded afr. Are they both the same tune?
The screen shot shows a nearly identical afr as Jason's, with the hiccup and all.
I am probably missing it in all the data there, but what gains exactly are you attributing to the new PG pump?
I am not doubting, just confused by all the info. Do you have any data logs before the PG pump was installed?
 
The excel looking graph was just a crude tune. I had software problems and a hard time trying to figure out how to make the dashhawk work with vista. The black screen shots are after i figured out the software glitch. Both pumps have the hic up around 2700-2800rpm with the a/f ratio going to around 13.5-13.6 during spool up for about 100rpm. This wasnt really to show anything about the pump, although i previously though that the pg pump did infact get rid of that bump. Its just my tune....if people want to copy it. As for a/f ratios on the stock pump....i dont have any, but i have countless logs of my fuel pressure dropping into the 600 range upon fuel cut. Now it stays above 1800 and goes over 2000 after 6000rpm with spikes of over 2200psi.

Stock a/f ratio dipped into the mid to high 10s up top and high 13s low 14s during that lil hic up
 
The excel looking graph was just a crude tune. I had software problems and a hard time trying to figure out how to make the dashhawk work with vista. The black screen shots are after i figured out the software glitch. Both pumps have the hic up around 2700-2800rpm with the a/f ratio going to around 13.5-13.6 during spool up for about 100rpm. This wasnt really to show anything about the pump, although i previously though that the pg pump did infact get rid of that bump. Its just my tune....if people want to copy it. As for a/f ratios on the stock pump....i dont have any, but i have countless logs of my fuel pressure dropping into the 600 range upon fuel cut. Now it stays above 1800 and goes over 2000 after 6000rpm with spikes of over 2200psi.

Stock a/f ratio dipped into the mid to high 10s up top and high 13s low 14s during that lil hic up

Thanks for the clarification.
So would you say the PG pump eliminated your fuel cut? Since you are the only one with info about the PG pump I am curious if you saw any other benefits (other than your improved et and trap) that you would directly attribute to the new Autotech/PG cdfp?
Thanks.
 
im not sure why people chose the map clamp over the bcd, i dont follow any of those threads. PM driver or tru-boost. As for selling the standback, i will once cobb comes out, or cpe version 2 which will actually do alot more than version one. I leaning towards cobb.

From what ive gathered, they use the Map Clamp over the BCD because they dont want the boost bled off.
 
From what ive gathered, they use the Map Clamp over the BCD because they dont want the boost bled off.

I read up about the map clamp before I posted this question. The place where most info was found, was on the SRT4 forums. I'm not sure if the same unit they use can be used for our car, bit I think it's universal.
Most SRT4 guys are using the map clamp sold by enginerunup.com. They sell allot of meth kits too, that seemed better than the ones sold by cooling mist and the competition, but thats a disscussion for a differant thread.

If the ECU never sees tru boost, then whats the differance how you "hide" the actual boost? Maybe I just didn't read enough about how the map clamp works, and why it's preffered over the BCD.

Some one please explain.
 
Spd, seems everyone is using the same unit as the Dodge SRT-4's.. The only difference is we have 4 wires opposed to 3, so if you follow Tru-Boost's install above this thread, you should easily find the wires. I think this is the direction im going until i find an approved ECU solution i like.
 
Spd, seems everyone is using the same unit as the Dodge SRT-4's.. The only difference is we have 4 wires opposed to 3, so if you follow Tru-Boost's install above this thread, you should easily find the wires. I think this is the direction im going until i find an approved ECU solution i like.

I was thinking about using the Apexi VAFC II, but won't be a pioneer. Driver311 might use the new Apexi Neo, but I don't know anything about that unit.

Write ups with pictures would make me confident enough to chop wires.
 
Well it would definately be interesting if he can get the NEO working. I think he will be spending a weekend chasing wires. As far as the MAP Clamp goes, you soldering inline with the factory wires, not actually cut and solder.. A simple pull back of the insulation and tap solder, electrical tape, done.
 

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