Help with issues from Greddy RS install please

well it is said to be the most reliable BOV On the market and its a higher quality than the type s, so that's probably why. It's a solidly made piece. I will go get pics later on my phone of everything when I run to the store.

btw add me on aim man. we chat on here all the time anyways, might as well, it would be easier that way lol.
 
well it is said to be the most reliable BOV On the market and its a higher quality than the type s, so that's probably why. It's a solidly made piece. I will go get pics later on my phone of everything when I run to the store.

btw add me on aim man. we chat on here all the time anyways, might as well, it would be easier that way lol.

i added you saturday night but you weren't online it said so i was pm-ing back and forth with you.

take pics when you can. I am not sure why yours isn't sucking in the bag, yours must be special :) Mine sucks in the bag so i need to tighten mine or put the second spring bakc in to try and run vta AND i need to cap the recirc tube whcih i hadn't done before and could be the problem i was having.

it's raning today and cold so i'll have to try it later this week
 
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there we go...and yes, i dont know why. The rs does have a stiffer spring than the type s too. IDK, it is weird. But it did not suck the bag in at ALL. i noticed with the top screw stiffer, it took the turbo alot longer to spool up. When i softened it, the turbo spooled alot quicker.
 
thats awesome! I am thinking now the reason why the bag doesnt get sucked in is because your horn has those tiny holes around the side, so the air probably comes out there also. on the type-s there are no holes on the side so when you put the bag over the end it blocks the whole thing and the air has no other holes to suck in to.

how much did that plucker thing cost and any idea what it's called? i'll try to stop by autozone and snag one
 
it was advanced auto parts and I really have no idea what it was called man...it said 38-41mm on the front...there was a bigger one than this, I got the smaller one. I then had to take the top bolt off, remove that top gold piece, and take the black rubber plug out of the middle because its too big, then put it back together inside of the recirc pipe. Basically, just messure your recirc pipe then just try to find something that will act as a plug in autozone or advanced. Yeah that might be why it didn't suck the bag in, i thought of that too. but even then, how will I be able to test if its leaking or not??
 
it was advanced auto parts and I really have no idea what it was called man...it said 38-41mm on the front...there was a bigger one than this, I got the smaller one. I then had to take the top bolt off, remove that top gold piece, and take the black rubber plug out of the middle because its too big, then put it back together inside of the recirc pipe. Basically, just messure your recirc pipe then just try to find something that will act as a plug in autozone or advanced. Yeah that might be why it didn't suck the bag in, i thought of that too. but even then, how will I be able to test if its leaking or not??

if you unscrew the horn (blue thing) from it then you can try the bag next to the silver part of the bov hole when the horn is removed, that should work as then there wouldnt be any of those little holes. If the bag starts to bend inwards then the nut needs to be tightened
 
ok can you answer this for me man...I am only seeing 13 pounds of boost when I have the car floored...is this because its too soft and needs to be tightened or vice versa or what??
 
ok can you answer this for me man...I am only seeing 13 pounds of boost when I have the car floored...is this because its too soft and needs to be tightened or vice versa or what??

that might depend on your gear. I boost at 13-14 in 3rd-4th but when i get into 5th it spikes about 20 and drops to like 17-18.

When you have a leak you will be at full throttle (like on the freeway) and the boost starts to drop and leak away.

you can always try tightening it.

i had never tried flooring it when i ran vta as the car ran terribly and backfired like hell i was affraid to push it. You may want to try just putting your fake greddy on real quick, recirculate it, and try some freeway runs and see if it gives 16-18psi, if thats the case, then you kow you cant run vta.
 
well this was in 2nd and 3rd gear...I thought we are supposed to be hitting 16 pounds??? but do you think tightening it to where its about 6 threads showing would make a difference?? I don't know why it's not hitting full boost...I don't know how to counter-act that. anyone have any advice?
 
well this was in 2nd and 3rd gear...I thought we are supposed to be hitting 16 pounds??? but do you think tightening it to where its about 6 threads showing would make a difference?? I don't know why it's not hitting full boost...I don't know how to counter-act that. anyone have any advice?

this car is very testy. You should only get around 6-7psi in 2nd gear, as far as I know (which isnt much) boost is limited in 1st and 2nd gears to avoid wheelspin and traction issues. Lestat13 who also had the type-rs after having the type-s was telling me about the same thing and mentioned you wont get full boost in 2nd or 3rd, you will definietely get it in 5th and 6th, not sure about 3rd or 4th tho. I have never gotten full boost in 3rd or 4th.

You can try tightening it up and see how she goes. Also if you inscrew the horn (just have to twist it off) you can try that bag thing and see if it leaks at all. I'll be working on mine wednesday on my enxt day off
 
Sure did man, got the recirc fitting put on a few weeks ago and its running great. I need to do some fine tuning to adjust it. With the BOV in recirculation, how should I have it adjusted? Any advice?
 
Sure did man, got the recirc fitting put on a few weeks ago and its running great. I need to do some fine tuning to adjust it. With the BOV in recirculation, how should I have it adjusted? Any advice?

i have it at 6 full turns and its perfect no leaks. i had the same adjustment on my fake greddy before this. i have the smaller spring removed from inside.
 
So can you go outside and count the amount of threads you have showing? That would make it ALOT easier for me, cause I don't know how many turns its at now.
 
So can you go outside and count the amount of threads you have showing? That would make it ALOT easier for me, cause I don't know how many turns its at now.


What I did, is, turn the screw all the way to that it was loose (first contact with the top of the spring perch) You'll know what that is when you loosen it up, it will all of a sudden feel loose. Thats what youwant to start with. Then from theye I turned the allen wrench 6 full 360-degree turns and that was it. It gave me maximum whistle (while still recirculated), no surging, and perfect response. This is also with the smaller spring inside removed (single spring mod) which I think you are familiar with as well. The 2 springs inside make the greddy valve have too much spring tension to open all the way out properly to release air and not cause surging, so removing the smaller spring from inside takes away the extra spring pressure, allowing you to have better adjustment with the top screw and only having 1 spring inside to compress. With that done, 6 full turns, its good to go for me.
 
ok i gotta revise my how to tune it on this thing and i feel bad lol. really though. i put it on backwards, facing the front of the car, took off the recirc fitting(so i could see the plunger) at idle with the recirc hose plugged, backed the screw all the way out(you will see the plunger lift a little at the end, then tightened it till the plunger went down. then i drove vta, to see and guess what no flutter at all just one crisp whoosh everytime. so i got back from the test drive, flipped it in recirc again and guess what still no surge, flutter, just solid crisp wwhhoosshh. so sexy. well again sorry to revise my original how to but i think all that screw is for is tighten the spring to hold the plunger closed at idle. the design keeps it closed in boost with vac and boost pressure. i hold 18 psi strong and now believe this is the only way to tune it. well for me it worked hope that helps. and i run 2 springs.
 
ok i gotta revise my how to tune it on this thing and i feel bad lol. really though. i put it on backwards, facing the front of the car, took off the recirc fitting(so i could see the plunger) at idle with the recirc hose plugged, backed the screw all the way out(you will see the plunger lift a little at the end, then tightened it till the plunger went down. then i drove vta, to see and guess what no flutter at all just one crisp whoosh everytime. so i got back from the test drive, flipped it in recirc again and guess what still no surge, flutter, just solid crisp wwhhoosshh. so sexy. well again sorry to revise my original how to but i think all that screw is for is tighten the spring to hold the plunger closed at idle. the design keeps it closed in boost with vac and boost pressure. i hold 18 psi strong and now believe this is the only way to tune it. well for me it worked hope that helps. and i run 2 springs.


I was going to try to turn it so it would face out to see it at idle (cant recirc facing that way tho. But My wife had some of those dental mirrors, so I just stuck one under it when facing normally to see it at idle. Mine stays open just a bit. So I tightened it til it closed. I am curious to see how it will be with 2 springs tho. I took the small one out before I even installed it so I've never ran it with 2 springs to see how it stays closed. I have the type-s not the type-rs
 
let us know. like i said i reversed it and let it vent for 10 mins, couldnt stand the way it ran. but on the type s i read a lot of the dsm people did the one spring mod so i dont know what to tell you. how does it sound with the one spring?
 
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