MAF Relocation

I'm new here and I have seen some posts on this but wanted to get some new feedback. I have read that by relocating my MAF to my cold pipe I can install an atmospheric BOV and do away with the BPV. I have all hardpiping, CAI, FCD, MBC...I also have a new T-28 and HKS SSQV I plan to install. Are there any other benefits to relocating MAF? Any comments would be appreciated.
 
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You mean besides the Better more accurate air flow reading and and no stalling. Not that I can think of.

OOHH I almost forgot. You also get a 23 dyno proven HP bump. (obviously a lie) I hope your going to either upgrade that SMIC or get a FMIC (which is what I'm running and recommend) The T28 like to get hot!! So your stock SMIC will heat soak even faster. I know cause mine did. Also open up your exhaust some more. I did it by mounting a catless mid pipe. The T28 also needs to breath better.
 
haha thanks man. I'm def waiting to install the T-28 until I get a front mount. Is it ok to mount the MAF inches from the TB(like just a coupler away) and the BOV on the Hot pipe?
 
I've had my MAF relocated for over three years now. Here's my setup .. and you can't see it, but my BOV is down on my hot pipe (where that one vacuum line on the left is going down to):

EngineBay.jpg
 
The MAF should be at least 12in from the TB. And about the same behind the blow off valve.
 
Ok here's some of mine.
Rush...I'm a bit suprised to find the lack of CF under your hood. It looks like you not the only one that had to do away with the AC fan with the MAM Hard pipes. I'll be clocking the turbo this coming spring to get that taken care of though.
 

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The MAF should be at least 12in from the TB. And about the same behind the blow off valve.
While ideal this is rarely possible. I've had two different FMIC setups and I couldn't get both distances to work out completely both times. My current setup has the MAF about 10 inches from the TB and the BOV is about 6 inches in front of the MAF and everything seems okay.
Ok here's some of mine.
Rush...I'm a bit suprised to find the lack of CF under your hood. It looks like you not the only one that had to do away with the AC fan with the MAM Hard pipes. I'll be clocking the turbo this coming spring to get that taken care of though.
She has the entire kit so I imagine she has some slim fans in there you can't see. The MAM kit originally came with two SPAL fans: one 12" puller to mount on the backside of the radiator and one 9" pusher to mount on the front of the A/C condensor.
 
Rush...I'm a bit suprised to find the lack of CF under your hood. It looks like you not the only one that had to do away with the AC fan with the MAM Hard pipes.

She has the entire kit so I imagine she has some slim fans in there you can't see. The MAM kit originally came with two SPAL fans: one 12" puller to mount on the backside of the radiator and one 9" pusher to mount on the front of the A/C condensor.
Magnum's right -- I have the SPAL fans. You can just barely see the top edges of them in that pic.

And I purposely chose not to have CF in the engine bay .. cause I know that it eventually discolors thanks to all the heat. Figured I'd save myself the trouble and use the money elsewhere. ;)
 
I have been wondering why Mazda didnt put it in the cold-pipe since its so much better. is there a reason? Im not arguing, im down for the Relocate, im gonna do it when i get some $$, just curious.(screwy)
 
I have been wondering why Mazda didnt put it in the cold-pipe since its so much better. is there a reason? Im not arguing, im down for the Relocate, im gonna do it when i get some $$, just curious.(screwy)
It just isn't the way factory cars are made. Look at all the other turbocharged factory cars - they all have the MAF pre-turbo as well. No cars come with factory BOVs so it just isn't needed.
 
I have been wondering why Mazda didnt put it in the cold-pipe since its so much better. is there a reason? Im not arguing, im down for the Relocate, im gonna do it when i get some $$, just curious.(screwy)

The MAF is basically a free mod. All you need is couplers and and hack saw. This is if your running hard pipes.

As far as why Mazda didn't set it up that way from the start...? You can say that about almost any part on the MSP. From the lack of forged internals to the badly designed "clunking" rear end. There are many opportunities for improvement, but that's kinda the fun in it.
 
Im running the WeaponR hardpipes to the PG SMI. With the SMI there is less piping so im finding it hard to get the 10Inches from the TB.
 
The MAF is basically a free mod. All you need is couplers and and hack saw. This is if your running hard pipes.

As far as why Mazda didn't set it up that way from the start...? You can say that about almost any part on the MSP. From the lack of forged internals to the badly designed "clunking" rear end. There are many opportunities for improvement, but that's kinda the fun in it.

I know how to do it, but Couplings arent free, I need 4 and they run about $15 a piece.

I understand the whole forged deal but the MAF is something they had to put on the car anyway, why not put it in a better spot. But u r right, we can nit-pick it allday. Almost anything can be improved once u add more heads thinkin about it.
 
I know how to do it, but Couplings arent free, I need 4 and they run about $15 a piece.

I understand the whole forged deal but the MAF is something they had to put on the car anyway, why not put it in a better spot. But u r right, we can nit-pick it allday. Almost anything can be improved once u add more heads thinkin about it.

4?? you need 2 for each end of the MAF. I got bought some just in case couplers at Pepboys for $6-7 Ebay has them for $5
 
4?? you need 2 for each end of the MAF. I got bought some just in case couplers at Pepboys for $6-7 Ebay has them for $5

and 2 more to put on the intake pipe where the MAF used to be.
Really, are the Pep Boys one good? I had bought some cheap ones off Ebay and are like some type of solid rubber, not layered silicone like most. They were more sensitive to the heat.
 
They are those solid rubber ones I ended up not using them I only bought them just in case.
 
i know you all say about 10-12 inches away from the TB is good for the MAF. Has anyone installed it closer? maybe inside 8 inches?
 
not to thread jack but....there is a much better solution to all of your problems than a MAF relocate. Save all your money and the uglyness of all those couplers and clamps too!
This is what i did and it worked like a charm.

my setup is a fmic with a Greddy type RS bov only. all i did was run some tubing with elbows from the bov to the nipple on the intake. this recirculates it back into the intake and my car runs perfectly smooth WITHOUT a maf relocate. the dump is still loud and i can run my aem cai.
 
not to thread jack but....there is a much better solution to all of your problems than a MAF relocate. Save all your money and the uglyness of all those couplers and clamps too!
This is what i did and it worked like a charm.

my setup is a fmic with a Greddy type RS bov only. all i did was run some tubing with elbows from the bov to the nipple on the intake. this recirculates it back into the intake and my car runs perfectly smooth WITHOUT a maf relocate. the dump is still loud and i can run my aem cai.
Okay... so all you're doing is recirculating, nothing special. Sorry to come off as an ass but what you did is nothing new. You are not "solving the problem" because relocating the MAF is for people who want to use blow-off valves that vent to the atmosphere. I'm sure if the original poster wanted to recirculate he wouldn't have made this thread. For what it's worth, I think all the recirculation piping is much uglier than two extra couplers.
 

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