MAF Relocation

Im just going to throw this out here, you start s*** with EVERYONE. Why cant you just leave things alone. I was just throwing out an idea. Hell, I remeber this one thread where your argument goes on for like 2 pages. Your condescending and sarcastic remarks are very "buzzkill-ish", so to speak.

Sorry for the reality check.

(thumb)
I'm curious as to what this "one thread" is considering you've only been a member for three months.

When you have more experience with these cars then you can start throwing out your opinion.

Take it easy, guys.

But I do side with Magnum here. He has been around for a VERY long time and is essentially a wealth of information -- and I don't think I've ever seen him be snappish unless it was, to some degree, deserved. I don't blame him for responding in an annoyed way to an idea that's been around the forums forever, when it's posted as if it's some new eureka moment.

Anyway.

Any pics of the WeaponR cold pipe? I'm sure I've seen one before at some point, but never realized what brand it was at the time. I think the 'straightest' one out there is prolly the one that Magnum and I both run, from the MAM FMIC kit.
 
one where the vacume chamber seals so you dont pull extra air into your intake manifold and lean you out to the point of where you pop a cel
 
I think the 'straightest' one out there is prolly the one that Magnum and I both run, from the MAM FMIC kit.

hold on a minute i also run this awesome fmic you call the MAM kit lol gots to give credit where its due. but it really is a great kit.
 
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here is one. I get a better one when i get home. But you can see how bend'y it is.
 
i need one for a direct replacement to the SMI tho. I was looking at the SU one. I know that is a forbidden name around here, but it looks like the only option.
 
I am running the SU cold pipe, and it is pretty straight.. I have also used the Turbohoses cold pipe and it is fairly straight also.

i need one for a direct replacement to the SMI tho. I was looking at the SU one. I know that is a forbidden name around here, but it looks like the only option.
 
Thanks - I've been here a while and I've done a lot to the car so I've definitely come a long way since I first joined back in 9/05. I will tell you right now the TurboXS BOVs suck - you will not be able to get them to work correctly with a relocated MAF. I've had two (Type H and Type H-RFL) and they both leaked around the piston (pressure test the valve, I dare you). Because the BOV was in front of the MAF and its vacuum source on the brake booster line it would draw in air from the BOV and place it into the intake manifold causing a stumbling idle and ultimately a Bank 1 - System too Lean (P0171) code. Both BOVs I had, I tested and neither would hold more than 10 mm Hg in vacuum. I've since switched to the HKS Super SQV (Special Edition Black) and I have no problem. Sounds awesome too.

As for the pipe, ideally you want as few bends as possible but you also want to make sure the final bend at the TB isn't too severe. Some of the higher HP guys have torched the #4 piston because of the sharp turn at the TB starves that piston of air.

How do u pressure test your BOV/BPV? I was reading on the Synapse website about how some leak and cause u to lose HP, basically their argument of why they r better.
 
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here is one. I get a better one when i get home. But you can see how bend'y it is.


I have seen that before and i also thought it had a Ridiculous amount of bends and pieces.





i need one for a direct replacement to the SMI tho. I was looking at the SU one. I know that is a forbidden name around here, but it looks like the only option.

I have the SU coldpipe, and if u have the Protege Garage SMIC, u have to cut like 3/4"-1" off the pipe, sounds scary but it works out fine. The reason for this is that it is designed for the stock or SMIC they sell, supposedly the CustomMSP SMIC at PG is just a tad different.
 
I have seen that before and i also thought it had a Ridiculous amount of bends and pieces.

I have the SU coldpipe, and if u have the Protege Garage SMIC, u have to cut like 3/4"-1" off the pipe, sounds scary but it works out fine. The reason for this is that it is designed for the stock or SMIC they sell, supposedly the CustomMSP SMIC at PG is just a tad different.

I have the SU SMIC which i figure is the same as the CustomMSP SMIC and my SU cold pipe fit just fine.
 
I have the SU coldpipe, and if u have the Protege Garage SMIC, u have to cut like 3/4"-1" off the pipe, sounds scary but it works out fine. The reason for this is that it is designed for the stock or SMIC they sell, supposedly the CustomMSP SMIC at PG is just a tad different.

You mean its a bit longer? as in it goes passed the TB? take some photos?
 
You mean its a bit longer? as in it goes passed the TB? take some photos?

No, i had to trim it where it connectes to the SMIC, I had a bunch of photos that i sent to Colon at SU, showin the steps i took, But they got deleted a bit ago(bang)
 
Take it easy, guys.

But I do side with Magnum here. He has been around for a VERY long time and is essentially a wealth of information -- and I don't think I've ever seen him be snappish unless it was, to some degree, deserved. I don't blame him for responding in an annoyed way to an idea that's been around the forums forever, when it's posted as if it's some new eureka moment.

Anyway.

Any pics of the WeaponR cold pipe? I'm sure I've seen one before at some point, but never realized what brand it was at the time. I think the 'straightest' one out there is prolly the one that Magnum and I both run, from the MAM FMIC kit.
w00t! Rush is on my side, LOL. I'll admit I was a little hasty but the threadjacking/irrelevant posting in these forums is getting out of hand. I haven't been here as long as Rush but I like to think I know a good amount about these cars and their engines. Anyway...

Unfortunately I'm not longer running the MAM setup. I was the third owner (snowblazin before me, and terbow before him) and there were issues (the water in the pipes when it rained a lot was the most annoying) but it served its purpose and was a quality kit. But yeah, the coldpipe on the MAM kit has like 2 ft of straight pipe - perfect for MAF relocation. I now have the turbolife kit with with all polished aluminum pipes and even though the coldpipe isn't as straight, I like the way everything is laid out better. I just wish the core wasn't so big. If there were some way a compromise, I would have been all over it.
How do u pressure test your BOV/BPV? I was reading on the Synapse website about how some leak and cause u to lose HP, basically their argument of why they r better.
I have an external pressure gauge (can get them at an Advance Auto, etc.) that I can hook up to vacuum lines and pressurize. I can hook the setup up to a bicycle pump to provide pressure or just build vacuum using my mouth. If the gauge remains stable, there aren't any leaks. With the TurboXS valves I couldn't generate more than 100 mm Hg they were leaking so badly. They weren't quite as bad under positive pressure but they leaked enough to cause a rough idle and a P0171 CEL.
 
hold on a minute i also run this awesome fmic you call the MAM kit lol gots to give credit where its due. but it really is a great kit.

and me!!!
Considering it was ForceFeds also adds a couple more HP to the ones you guys have :p
 
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Unfortunately I'm not longer running the MAM setup. I was the third owner (snowblazin before me, and terbow before him) and there were issues (the water in the pipes when it rained a lot was the most annoying) but it served its purpose and was a quality kit.

How did the water get in there? was it from the Pipes or somehow from the core? Should I take it apart and see if I have any in there. I would hate for the water to freeze and crack my intercooler or something!! I don't see how water would get in if everything is tight, unless somehow the system creates the water/vapor and it settles in the intercooler.
 
How did the water get in there? was it from the Pipes or somehow from the core? Should I take it apart and see if I have any in there. I would hate for the water to freeze and crack my intercooler or something!! I don't see how water would get in if everything is tight, unless somehow the system creates the water/vapor and it settles in the intercooler.
I don't have the slightest idea but it happened twice - both occurred as a direct result of driving for extended periods of time through heavy rain - the relocated MAF makes it worse. The first time I drove about two hours through heavy rain and anything above 1/4 throttle the car would fuel cut. After a while it threw a CEL - MAF Voltage too High. The second time I drove almost 5 hours straight through even heavier rain and there was so much water in the pipes you could hear it sloshing around. The second time I made damn sure all the pipes were tight and it hasn't happened again (at least it didn't happen with the MAM pipes again) and I have driven 2+ hours through rain. What happened was somehow water got in there and it would corrode the inside of the MAM pipes (they're steel) this corrosion would get deposited on the MAF and mess up the signal (the water didn't help either). All that was needed to correct the problem was to drain and dry the pipes and clean the MAF. Everything would be fine after that.
 

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