Hahahaha here is the proof my intake is not plastic or PVC piping, I also paint it black, looks a lot better than white, let me know what you guys think...
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Final Engine bay shots, looks much better in black...
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What kind of paint did you use?
Hahahaha here is the proof my intake is not plastic or PVC piping, I also paint it black, looks a lot better than white, let me know what you guys think...
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Final Engine bay shots, looks much better in black...
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my turbo is tapped for my wastegate...but it isn't on the car yet, so i can't comment on how it performs...and i have a forge, so i shouldn't have a problem with the wastegate going out on me like people do with the stock unit...since there isn't a 'diaphram' inside of it.
no sir. i got the 626 so i have a spare as well (my stock one).
My thunder exhaust mani is cracked badly but i cant really take the car apart at the moment.
I know, I had your old MAM FMIC kit, rememberI have a thoery on why our internal gates go bad so fast. The diaphram inside the gate is meant to measure boost, but i think because we tap them off the mani, they see vac, so that diaphram is constanly getting forces from both sides. I think this causes premature wear. I know quite a few oem turbo cars use the turbos compressor housing for a boost reference. This way the WG only sees boost like it was designed for. I tapped my turbo and am still testing this but i cant really say for sure but its not an unfounded idea. it makes sense mechanically.
what are you plans with that 626 mani after yours is complete? ...if you're not going to keep it, let me know.
Now you have me worried about the Forge as well...
que? Im using the 626. I was just saying i have my stock one still as a spare. I was going to PNP and remove VICS or VTCS (cant remember which one) and maybe sell it (stock one).
I know, I had your old MAM FMIC kit, rememberSadly, even with the source for the wastegate actuator right off the turbo (it still is with my new setup) the actuator is still dead. Actually, the actuator has only even been in that position. I think, even with the source at the turbo, the actuator is still going to see vacuum (if vacuum persists in the manifold than it has to in the IC pipes as well). Perhaps A check valve is in order next time to prevent the actuator from seeing vacuum.
Now you have me worried about the Forge as well...
aren't you going to be running one of your sheet-metal intake manis?
True, off-throttle, the throttle plate is closed but during most other driving conditions the throttle plate is partially opened and therefore there is vacuum in the pipes. Granted, the vacuum won't be as strong but it's still there. I might just try to put a check valve on my next wastegate actuator just to see if that does anything.how will it see vac with the TB plate closed?
Like i said its a thoery. Im sure there will be some bad apples and variables.
theres quite a few who run the forge and seem to like it from browsing here. I think mine was bad and they didnt want to pony up. but its ok.
True, off-throttle, the throttle plate is closed but during most other driving conditions the throttle plate is partially opened and therefore there is vacuum in the pipes. Granted, the vacuum won't be as strong but it's still there. I might just try to put a check valve on my next wastegate actuator just to see if that does anything.
took it to get welding quote for larger inlet/outlet pipes on my turbohoses hotpipe and air intake pipe. Materials cost $15.00, labor cost $90 per hour, could take around 2-3 hours so looking at about $290.00 all together
What kind of paint did you use?
Its called: Dupli-Color, Heat resistance paint.. their products are awesome and their primer are top quality
You should paint the coolant tank too![]()
I could but then i won't be able to see if is full, empty etc..
you can tape off a vertical slit and leave it clear/white.
then paint the rest black!
btw, the intake looks good.