AP did'nt solve my problem =(

scatt nasty

Banned
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08 Metropolitan Grey Mazdaspeed 3
Well got my AP today and loaded the only map that seemed somewhat suitable to my mods... the MSCAI/TBE map... This map is awesome but definately won't stay loaded for long.. (at least until 1.03 come out) It somewhat solved my boost cut issue. I did some runs and 1-3rd gear WOT are ok. Boost stays at high 16-mid 17 and AFR's are good/very minor to no knock, but the car stutters at around 5k in 3rd, like its trying to boost cut(Plugs maybe?).... Once I shift into 4th, by 4600 RPM boost is hitting 18.6ish and then it cuts.. At the time of cut though my AFR's are around 10.3 which is good...I was getting some crazy backfires, sounded like my damn Rem700 .308 echoing through the forest. Before the AP any gear 3rd or above, WOT would instantly equal cut.. so this map is somewhat better, should suffice until the new ones come out (I heard a rumor theres an upgraded TMIC map!!)

I dont think my fuel pump is at fault due to my gnarley AFR's, but hey upgraded internals and 1step colder plugs never hurt anyone right ? Im considering the CPE SRI as well since it will be more map friendly with the AP.Right now I have 3 choices if the new AP maps let me down... Sell AP and get standback, run a MBC setup at 17PSI and clamp it, (this would solve my cut issue and would only be ran of course with upgraded internals/plugs) ORRR Take my DP back to stock and just run some other non TBE AP map.
Give me some suggestions or something.. Im bummed (shrug)
 
i dont think the cobb ap is intend to fix your car problem.....if your car is getting fuel/boost cut before....by installing the ap wont solve that problem... but i could be wrong
 
all the maps raise the boost cut limit a good bit....stage 2 boost cut limits are like 21 psi. so it sounds like its something else...start w/ spark plugs i guess
 
Get a fuel pump. I see you have a DH. Data log the high pressure fuel PID and see what is happening to your pressue. I bet it drops and then bounces up and down while it is doing it. I have a CP-E pump but from an experiance w/ PG one it is better <held 1800+ psi at over 20psi>
 
wrong map?

Seriously man you need to be runnning a stage 2 map with your dp and mid pipe. The stage 2 is safer also since it expects more air and therefore supplies more fuel. I would try the stage2, SRI 1.02, or stage2, MSCAI 1.02. The worst that can happen is you are too rich.
Oh yea, I'm waitin for the 1.03 maps also. I think the 1.02 fmic maps blow. The 1.02 maps are only a little better than stock IMHO. Everyone is saying the 1.03 maps rock. I only wish they would post them.
 
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the stage 2 was the only one that somewhat worked.. my afr's and everything are good, it just still hits boost cut.... with the stage 2+ I was seeing all kinds of engine knock, so that one is out the window.
 
Do you have the mscai or the cpe cai like in your sig?
The CPE cold air intake, doesnt change the fuel trims much at all , so youre supposed to stay with the regular map, not the + map.
Since you have a turboback, you will need the regular stage2 map.
The top mount could also have you messed up.. you may wanna try the stage 2 + fmic map, if they have one. who knows... your mods dont go along with cobbs tunes. I wish I could help more.
 
there is a serios cut problem with these cars and nobody knows how to fix it.
caers with AP's get it, so do cars with the standback. my car with MBC and Map clamp get it badly. sure i can turn down the boost and it stops, but that isnt a fix. the fact is there isnt a competant company thats knows what the hell they are doing working on these cars. there is yet to be a real tuning option out there. just glorified sensor modifiers whick make the ECU act different. if this car was a mustang or SRT4 this would have been solved within 1 month of the cars debut. but nobody cares about out little mazdas, and those who do are truely clueless.
 
You should be running the Stage2 FMIC Map, not the MSCAI, Stage 2. I would also suggest trying 1step plugs as well as stretching your coil springs.

Do as the other user stated and run a log on your Fuel Pressure. It should be between 1500 and 1700 PSI on the stock pump. If you see a dip to 500-900 PSI, then your fuel pump isn't keeping up.
 
well... I just loaded the Stage 2 map as prescribed and the results are awesome.. AFR's are good, no knock, pulls all the way to 5500, and.. NO CREEP ! yay =D It holds 18.1-18.3. The only thing is there is MINOR stuttering, barely even noticable in the upper RPM's.. So I will get plugs for sure.
 
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well... I just loaded the Stage 2 map as prescribed and the results are awesome.. AFR's are good, no knock, pulls all the way to 5500, and.. NO CREEP ! yay =D It holds 18.1-18.3. The only thing is there is MINOR stuttering, barely even noticable in the upper RPM's.. So I will get plugs for sure.

It is a pretty crazy map. I also get a little stutter as well and am waiting for my plugs to arrive in the mail hoping this will fix the issue.
What is your afr when you let off the throttle and coast in gear still. mine runs 29% which is way lean but theres almost no load on the motor so im not sure if this is normal or bad??
 
well... I just loaded the Stage 2 map as prescribed and the results are awesome.. AFR's are good, no knock, pulls all the way to 5500, and.. NO CREEP ! yay =D It holds 18.1-18.3. The only thing is there is MINOR stuttering, barely even noticable in the upper RPM's.. So I will get plugs for sure.

See - Cobb recommends plugs with the Stage 2 BTW. They should resolve the rest of your issues. Enjoy!
 
my AFR's go into the low 10's when WOT.. when I let off they are 27/29ish, never above 30 which I believe is normal ? I think thats just what the dash hawk displays until you give it some throttle. The stutter I get isn't up untill the higher RPM's and its very minor.
 
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