I made a thread a couple weeks ago about only getting 23mpg on my last tank. I am happy to say that this tank, I averaged....wait for it....31 mpg!! Granted it was probably 70% highway driving but still. I think, like someone suggested, my computer needed some time to adjust after disconnecting the battery and installing new spark plugs, filter, and cleaning the MAF. So hopefully this good gas mileage will continue. Just wanted to share...
Good gas mileage
- Thread starter erzipper
- Start date
after seafoaming my engine, crank case and fuel tank
oil change (350kms after the seafoam was poured into the crank case)
new spark plugs and wires
i got 29mpg, but this is my regular driving style (bagging the s*** out of the car)
45.46L Filled
568.70KMs traveled
7.99km/100L
29.43MPG
HelionTBone
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Proteg5
What does it mean to seafoam these components? What kind of place will do something like that and what does it usually cost? Just curious.
Honestly, your mpg will get hosed with more city driving. The best I can do around town is 25 mpg. Though I have been able to get 31-34 mpg, but that greatly depends on speed.
I would also noted that the 31 mpg is driving 70/60 for most of the trip with the AC on.
I would also noted that the 31 mpg is driving 70/60 for most of the trip with the AC on.
maniac_2oo4
Member
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- Pro5
I get about 22mpg, mostly city, on my tiptronic.
Sad
Sad
HelionTBone
Member
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- 2003 Mazda Proteg5
I've been fairly frustrated because my mileage has not been anywhere near what was touted by several people prior to me purchasing it. I am thinking of getting a high performance air filter to see if that helps.
good god, just how a big a supercharged hemi you got under that thing!
jk. not to threadjack, but where do you pour the seafoam into the crank? the guide for doing it isnt really clear on the oil portion of the cleaning.
im gonna have to do al this to mine. imauto, but i should still be able to go more than 300km on an almost full tank.
Brake booster line on the firewall. Yes, you WILL get a check engine light. Ignore it, until you are done.
Dump 1/2 bottle into the crank case.
Use a funnel and pour in 1/4 of the can in that vac line slowly. You will need to rev up the car a little to keep it from choking out. This is easiest with a second person, but I usually do it manually, from th throttle. Then dump the last 1/4 can in the funnel very fast. Don't rev the engine; you want the engine to flood out, and cut off.
Let it sit for at least 15-20 minutes. During this time, you can reset the battery, to kill the CEL.
Crank the car back up. It may take some time, since your engine is flooded. once it runs let it idle for about 2-3 minutes, then get the revs up to about 3K for 5-10 minutes. now take the car out for a good hard drive15-20 minutes. when you get back, do an oil/filter change.
Dump 1/2 bottle into the crank case.
Use a funnel and pour in 1/4 of the can in that vac line slowly. You will need to rev up the car a little to keep it from choking out. This is easiest with a second person, but I usually do it manually, from th throttle. Then dump the last 1/4 can in the funnel very fast. Don't rev the engine; you want the engine to flood out, and cut off.
Let it sit for at least 15-20 minutes. During this time, you can reset the battery, to kill the CEL.
Crank the car back up. It may take some time, since your engine is flooded. once it runs let it idle for about 2-3 minutes, then get the revs up to about 3K for 5-10 minutes. now take the car out for a good hard drive15-20 minutes. when you get back, do an oil/filter change.
HelionTBone
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Proteg5
Can't seem to find the how to.... Do you have the manual or auto tranny?
its lke $6 a can in the US and $12 in canada
you run the stuff thru your engine and it cleans out all the carbon build up and sludge
what i did was 2/3 of the can poured into a metal bowl (a doggy dish actaully lol)
my friend took the hose and let it suck up all the seafoam thru the brake booster line (it sucks it REAL fast)
then turn off the engine or let it stall out
poured the rest into my fuel tank.
took ANOTHER can and poured 2/3 into crank and the rest into fuel tank again.
wait 30 mnins
start up and you will get this >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7gMJBn6D9Y
let the steam die off a bit before driving on the road
then about 300kms after do an oil change, your oil will be SUPER BLACK but thats good cuz that means alot of the sludge and soot crap will be trapped in the oil.
your injectors should be clean as well after 2 tanks of gas.
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
in my old P5 reg auto i always averaged 24-27mpg in town and in my msp its always 23-28 in town. Generally its 24 or 25mpg in town with the msp and my old p5.
The automatic really hurts the gas mileage, IME, on the Pro.
In my old 2003 Protege LX automatic, I would get around 28-29mpg in grandma highway, 27mpg in normal/faster highway. Around town, flooring it everywhere, I'd get 22-24mpg. For the first part of the car's life, I'd average 24mpg doing half highway half city.
I have a 2002 Protege5 manual now, and I'm getting 30+ on the highway, 27mpg commuting (half highway) and I don't drive it lightly.
In my old 2003 Protege LX automatic, I would get around 28-29mpg in grandma highway, 27mpg in normal/faster highway. Around town, flooring it everywhere, I'd get 22-24mpg. For the first part of the car's life, I'd average 24mpg doing half highway half city.
I have a 2002 Protege5 manual now, and I'm getting 30+ on the highway, 27mpg commuting (half highway) and I don't drive it lightly.
RockerPro5
Member
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- Midnight Blue Protege 5
Whether there is any factual evidence or not, I'd like to think it has to do with adhering to the break-in period specified in the owner's manual. If the original owner bagged the hell out of it when it was brand new within the first few hundred miles, it wouldn't be good for the long term mpg.
