How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix
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red95_240sx
Member
what size engine?
edit: i see from above. i have a used one for you for $30. was working when i took it off, and has been sitting on my dresser for a while. if it doesnt work for you, ill give u ur money back.
edit:I also see you bought it already(hand) it very well may fix ur problem.
edit: i see from above. i have a used one for you for $30. was working when i took it off, and has been sitting on my dresser for a while. if it doesnt work for you, ill give u ur money back.
edit:I also see you bought it already(hand) it very well may fix ur problem.
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Hey - thanks for the offer tho. I appreciate it. At this point I really just want it to be fixed ASAP!!! 
Since Mazda can do it on Monday morning, I will just go ahead and see what happens...
btw. I called up Napa in Kingston just for the hell of finding out how much they would charge for the MAP sensor. The guy on the phone said "just a sec... whoa!... $308!" So I said "Uh, ok thanks" and hung up !
Since Mazda can do it on Monday morning, I will just go ahead and see what happens...
btw. I called up Napa in Kingston just for the hell of finding out how much they would charge for the MAP sensor. The guy on the phone said "just a sec... whoa!... $308!" So I said "Uh, ok thanks" and hung up !
Well, after a bunch of searching, new MAP, injector flush, Kingston Mazda discovered that Canadian Tire had placed my new timing belt one cog off on my camshafts...
I told them to repair it, as I didn't want to trust Canadian Tire with my car again. I will go to yell at Canadian Tire tomorrow. Sounds like it could have been an honest mistake (apparently no codes were registering with this small timing error), or perhaps not!!
I told them to repair it, as I didn't want to trust Canadian Tire with my car again. I will go to yell at Canadian Tire tomorrow. Sounds like it could have been an honest mistake (apparently no codes were registering with this small timing error), or perhaps not!!
Just registered, and my first post here...
I've read through a lot of the pages in this here thread, and after much enlightenment, I'm going to try this myself. Like most of you, I have a 2001 Protege ES with some issues. Mine specifically runs rough when shifting into higher gears/idle issues etc. My CEL actually flashes off and on when I'm on the hwy and I get a major loss of power at that point. It's like one of my cylinders actually stops working and it compensates the other 3 and runs semi-smooth until it resets itself. The CEL will actually go off after a while, but only for a day at most. It's had this problem for a few months now, and my Mazda has 154k on it! I know, pretty high. Me and my dad actually tried a few diff things on it last winter, like spark plugs etc. If I rememer right, I was getting the code 302. I think it was a misfire code. So, I'll post the end result as I'm gonna try this on Sat. If you have any words of wisdom please let me know!
I've read through a lot of the pages in this here thread, and after much enlightenment, I'm going to try this myself. Like most of you, I have a 2001 Protege ES with some issues. Mine specifically runs rough when shifting into higher gears/idle issues etc. My CEL actually flashes off and on when I'm on the hwy and I get a major loss of power at that point. It's like one of my cylinders actually stops working and it compensates the other 3 and runs semi-smooth until it resets itself. The CEL will actually go off after a while, but only for a day at most. It's had this problem for a few months now, and my Mazda has 154k on it! I know, pretty high. Me and my dad actually tried a few diff things on it last winter, like spark plugs etc. If I rememer right, I was getting the code 302. I think it was a misfire code. So, I'll post the end result as I'm gonna try this on Sat. If you have any words of wisdom please let me know!
^ sorry, hope that didn't come off rough, but yeah, if the code says its a miss-fire issue, I don't think the EGR is the problem. From what I've read the EGR usually causes crazy idle problems. Your issues seem to be at speed...
Either way, good luck! Hopefully its just a bad spark-plug boot or something else simple...
Either way, good luck! Hopefully its just a bad spark-plug boot or something else simple...
Yea I haven't replaced much yet. Just a few spark plugs so far. I was reading in another thread too, and I'm gonna see if I can test the coil packs. Any idea on how to do that? I'm new to working on engines. But I can do oil, brakes, springs, rotos etc. And I'm a woman. ;-) Love cars.
dannyboy17
Member
- :
- MSP Protege
P0302 Code - Cylinder #2 Misfire
Technical Description
Cylinder #2 Misfire Detected
What does that mean?
A P0302 code means that the the car's computer has detected that one of the engine's cylinders is not firing properly. In this case it's cylinder #2.
Symptoms
Symptoms may include:
* the engine may be harder to start
* the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate
* other symptoms may also be present
Causes
A code P0302 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
* Faulty spark plug or wire
* Faulty coil (pack)
* Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
* Faulty fuel injector
* Burned exhaust valve
* Faulty catalytic converter(s)
* Running out of fuel
* Poor compression
* Defective computer
Possible Solutions
If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
I personally would change the coils/wires (at 154k, its a good idea if it has not been done in a while), see if that fixes ur problem. If it continues then just replace the injector on the second cylinder. I have some spare injectors laying around, let me know if u need one. Pretty sure they are the same for 01-03 proteges.
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Update! First off, my car was giving me a 303 code, not 302. I brought my car over to my dad's and we tested the 3rd plug a few different ways. We switched the plugs around etc. We noticed that it wasn't getting a good spark when hooked up to the 2/3 coil pack, but it got a better spark when hooked up the other one.
So, we called around to a few auto stores close by and only 1 had a coil pack in stock. It was only $18 so I figured why not. So I bought it, and replaced the old one and voila! Got 100 miles on it already and still no problems. I do have the old one in my trunk though, just in case! I'll see if it lasts, but I'm very happy to have my car running correctly again!
So, we called around to a few auto stores close by and only 1 had a coil pack in stock. It was only $18 so I figured why not. So I bought it, and replaced the old one and voila! Got 100 miles on it already and still no problems. I do have the old one in my trunk though, just in case! I'll see if it lasts, but I'm very happy to have my car running correctly again!
^ congrats!
Glad that worked for you and glad you did NOT do all that work to clean the EGR only to still have the same issue. Mine was pretty easy to get-too and clean, but that was before I re-installed the stock intake. With the jainky home-made SRI the previous owner had on the car, it was easy to get too. Now that she's back to stock, it would be a little more work...
Glad that worked for you and glad you did NOT do all that work to clean the EGR only to still have the same issue. Mine was pretty easy to get-too and clean, but that was before I re-installed the stock intake. With the jainky home-made SRI the previous owner had on the car, it was easy to get too. Now that she's back to stock, it would be a little more work...
dannyboy17
Member
- :
- MSP Protege
I'm glad as well, and thanks! If this part works out, I'm going to order another one just because its so cheap in price. That way I'll have two brand new coils.
glad it helped you, i might even get two new coils myself since Ive never changed them.
Hey guys and gals,
First post here. This has been an awesome thread. I know nothing about cars and have never sunk my hands in to my Protege's internal organs, but after my "stealership" diagnosed my CEL and asked me for $400.00 to replace something called an EGR valve, I thought I'd better do some more research.
Before I get my virgin hands in there to start removing parts of my engine, I wanted to make sure I was doing the right thing. I've read that this code can pop up not only due to a clogged valve, but that a faulty DPFE sensor or even a vacuum leak can be the culprit. I was hoping to describe some of my symptoms to the more experienced and knowledgeable folks here so that I can gain some certainty that cleaning the valve will solve my CEL.
- This is a 5 spd 2001 Protege ES 2.0, 147,500km (92,000 miles). I bought the car at 130k. When I purchased the vehicle it went from being a city-driven car to a highway driven car. Presumably the valve has never been cleaned.
- Low and sometimes erratic idle, <750
- Weak/Irregular acceleration: gains some "umph" at 3k rpm, otherwise weak (like a Civic from the same year (lol @ Civics))
- Increasingly poor fuel economy
- CEL, OBD-II P0401, EGR Low Flow
These problems have been developing for the past couple of months, with the CEL being the latest symptom. From this description, does a clogged valve seem likely? I don't want to poke around in there without being as sure as I can be that this will solve my problem. In my imagination, the gradual development of these particular symptoms seems to suggest that the valve is closing off like an artery after too many Big Macs, with each successive layer of deposits choking the EGR faster and faster.
Thanks again for this thread and for all the valuable insights. I'm looking forward to holding on to my $400.00 by fixing it my damn self.
First post here. This has been an awesome thread. I know nothing about cars and have never sunk my hands in to my Protege's internal organs, but after my "stealership" diagnosed my CEL and asked me for $400.00 to replace something called an EGR valve, I thought I'd better do some more research.
Before I get my virgin hands in there to start removing parts of my engine, I wanted to make sure I was doing the right thing. I've read that this code can pop up not only due to a clogged valve, but that a faulty DPFE sensor or even a vacuum leak can be the culprit. I was hoping to describe some of my symptoms to the more experienced and knowledgeable folks here so that I can gain some certainty that cleaning the valve will solve my CEL.
- This is a 5 spd 2001 Protege ES 2.0, 147,500km (92,000 miles). I bought the car at 130k. When I purchased the vehicle it went from being a city-driven car to a highway driven car. Presumably the valve has never been cleaned.
- Low and sometimes erratic idle, <750
- Weak/Irregular acceleration: gains some "umph" at 3k rpm, otherwise weak (like a Civic from the same year (lol @ Civics))
- Increasingly poor fuel economy
- CEL, OBD-II P0401, EGR Low Flow
These problems have been developing for the past couple of months, with the CEL being the latest symptom. From this description, does a clogged valve seem likely? I don't want to poke around in there without being as sure as I can be that this will solve my problem. In my imagination, the gradual development of these particular symptoms seems to suggest that the valve is closing off like an artery after too many Big Macs, with each successive layer of deposits choking the EGR faster and faster.
Thanks again for this thread and for all the valuable insights. I'm looking forward to holding on to my $400.00 by fixing it my damn self.
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dannyboy17
Member
- :
- MSP Protege
I have a working EGR I cleaned myself for sale, that code does look like the EGR is faulty. Try cleaning it first to see if it continues, if not I can sell you my spare EGR for cheap.
That may interest me. I'm going to try to clean my existing valve first, though.
Can you give me the approximate weight and dimensions of the part so that I can calculate shipping from Florida to Nova Scotia? I'll probably get you to overnight it, I need this problem solved very quickly.
Can you give me the approximate weight and dimensions of the part so that I can calculate shipping from Florida to Nova Scotia? I'll probably get you to overnight it, I need this problem solved very quickly.
dannyboy17
Member
- :
- MSP Protege
id say it weighs like 1-2lbs, and it will fit in a small envelope (the one with cushion, not a regular letter envelope).
mz3onturn7
Member
Hey guys... Im new here and this is my first mazda, so what does "PCM" and "the pins" refer to in the OP's steps 7 & 8 ? TIA.
7. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. I suggest resetting the PCM while doing this, so the EGR can readjust after you start it.
8. You may want to follow the Manual's suggestion of measuring the resistance of the pins, but my car runs ten times better now, and I have no stalling issues anymore.
9. Time to complete, 30 minutes at most. Good luck.
Britt
7. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. I suggest resetting the PCM while doing this, so the EGR can readjust after you start it.
8. You may want to follow the Manual's suggestion of measuring the resistance of the pins, but my car runs ten times better now, and I have no stalling issues anymore.
9. Time to complete, 30 minutes at most. Good luck.
Britt
