tuners worst nightmare

AutoXracer, whats up with the $600 stocker, is it the exact same turbo better seals I havent heard about it but I would rather do this and have a better turbo than f***n around with service managers.
 
AutoXracer, whats up with the $600 stocker, is it the exact same turbo better seals I havent heard about it but I would rather do this and have a better turbo than f***n around with service managers.

Nope, its modded with new stronger seals, better bearings, light-weight turbines, clipped exhaust turbine, and polished housings...might be some other things...but you get the idea...
 
^^ Read, it's not a *new* turbo, but service to rebuild your old turbo.

There is an option to buy a NEW turbo from Mazdaspeed...

Plus why wouldn't it be called a new turbo...? New seals, new bearings, new turbine, new shaft, polished housings...? I don't see any old in there....??? (huh)
 
well I thought I lucked out and wouldn't have this issue at all but..... yesterday I was driving to Sports Authority on a break from work, and noticed white smoke coming from my car while stopped at a light. Kind of freaked me out until I remembered reading this thread. Came to the next light, noticed the same thing, then some coming from under my hood!!!! I must have an exhaust leak at the turbo/dp or dp/tp joint. I'm going to reinstall the dp and test pipe this weekend to see what happens. I plan on bringing it to my dealership regardless to hopefully get my turbo replaced.
 
So as you guys know i'm pretty much on the fore front of modding for the ms3. So i decided to finally be true to myself, get the car tuned and call it a day.(or completely be done modding the car for performance) Any ways so first pull i get 274 whp and 298 ft lbs. I'm thinking to myself"wow thats kinda low, i know people are posting higher numbers with fewer mods". So the tuner starts working his tuner magic, and my wonderful experiance turn'd bad fast. To make a long story short,..., my a/f were low on the bottom and good up top, no surprise right. Well to tuner guy can't tune the car at all. Im already maxing out the pump down low. He basically told me not to drive to car hard till i get a fuel pump. So i called cp-e and su to help and both of those guys were great Mark, and Jordan. They helped out alot but i still have my hands tied behind my back. I was on the dyno for 4 hrs they were trying all kind of things. I think the tuner guy felt bad so he only charged me 100.00 and told me to come back!!!!!!
I knew the fuel pump issue was going to criple me but i didn't think it would completely halt the whole process. I guess this is what happens when your in front. I really thought i would be able to work my way around the damn fuel pump for some extra ponies!!!
And to boot, my f$^king seals started to blow oil it filled the whole damn shop. Heres some pics
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I don't know how many times I have seen blown engines and people running the cp-e standback.
 
i don't think the standback in and of itself is causing motors to pop

I agree. But, I think it is the tune that is specific to a particular set of environmentals that doesn't work all the time. It is up to the tuner to make sure that there are enough tunes to cover all environmentals.
 
right, and this goes for EVERY engine management system out there - piggyback, standalone, reflash or anything
 
Really

i don't think the standback in and of itself is causing motors to pop
What caused this for our brother then. Root cause! We all need to know what really caused the motor to destruct. Conjecture really does not mean much at this point. Melted piston, bearing failure, etc. The breaking of a motor can be the best teacher for the rebuild and tuning.
 
What caused this for our brother then. Root cause! We all need to know what really caused the motor to destruct. Conjecture really does not mean much at this point. Melted piston, bearing failure, etc. The breaking of a motor can be the best teacher for the rebuild and tuning.

its really a bad idea to think that there is one cause for any engine to blow unless the cause is blatantly obvious. in the thread where kyle (ms3guy22) talked about his motor blowing, i addressed more than a few things which i felt could have been the issue. an internal combustion engine is a complex machine and as such its not always simplistic reasons, one or few, that do a motor in. often times its a chain reaction or combination of bad choices/occurrences.

case in point, people are popping these motors stock, no mods, and this has been posted more than a few times. we've seen one guy here with a mazdaspeed3 who has gone through two engines in less than 10k miles. if you want a root cause out of any of that, it seems damn simple to me despite the fact that people are unwilling to accept it; these engines are not incredibly strong and they are certainly not bulletproof. i don't know how many pictures can be taken of the rods when they bend, when they snap, of holes in the block, of shredded bearings, of cracked pistons. all other things aside, its really annoying and ignorant to see people rant and rave about the DISI's fabulous forged rods when they snap, curl, twist or bend. Forged or not, polished turd or not polished - they're still turds and in no way should people have confidence that they are going to make 350whp plus, reliably, long term on them. it does not matter if they are forged or not when they are simply not beefy enough in and of themselves. it would be well advised for people to get the notion that simply forging a part makes it indestructible, much in the same respect that a "perfect air fuel ratio" makes an engine unblowable.

alot of things can happen. personally from the videos i saw before this particular engine blew, i believe the crank walked and spun a rod bearing. eventually when the bearing dissolves completely the rod is going to bust free and find another place to go, and on an aluminum block its pretty easy for a rod flying around in the cylinder at 6000rpm to make a dramatic exit.
 
its really a bad idea to think that there is one cause for any engine to blow unless the cause is blatantly obvious. in the thread where kyle (ms3guy22) talked about his motor blowing, i addressed more than a few things which i felt could have been the issue. an internal combustion engine is a complex machine and as such its not always simplistic reasons, one or few, that do a motor in. often times its a chain reaction or combination of bad choices/occurrences.

case in point, people are popping these motors stock, no mods, and this has been posted more than a few times. we've seen one guy here with a mazdaspeed3 who has gone through two engines in less than 10k miles. if you want a root cause out of any of that, it seems damn simple to me despite the fact that people are unwilling to accept it; these engines are not incredibly strong and they are certainly not bulletproof. i don't know how many pictures can be taken of the rods when they bend, when they snap, of holes in the block, of shredded bearings, of cracked pistons. all other things aside, its really annoying and ignorant to see people rant and rave about the DISI's fabulous forged rods when they snap, curl, twist or bend. Forged or not, polished turd or not polished - they're still turds and in no way should people have confidence that they are going to make 350whp plus, reliably, long term on them. it does not matter if they are forged or not when they are simply not beefy enough in and of themselves. it would be well advised for people to get the notion that simply forging a part makes it indestructible, much in the same respect that a "perfect air fuel ratio" makes an engine unblowable.

alot of things can happen. personally from the videos i saw before this particular engine blew, i believe the crank walked and spun a rod bearing. eventually when the bearing dissolves completely the rod is going to bust free and find another place to go, and on an aluminum block its pretty easy for a rod flying around in the cylinder at 6000rpm to make a dramatic exit.
(mswerd)
 
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