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Brakes for time trial
- Thread starter benjpi
- Start date
Update on the Hawk's for those who might not already know:
DO NOT USE THESE AS STREET PADS!!!
I left mine on the car after the event due to unforseen family circumstances. They were on the car for 1000 miles, 80% of which was highway miles (no brakes for hours at a time).
I just took them off this morning, and the rotors are at minimum thickness, shot. The pads look practically new. The rotors were NEW with the pads. If you use these as street pads, your rotors will be below minimum thickness before you need to change your oil, and they wear the rotor faster than the pad.
Also, the front wheels are BLACK with dust. I tried to clean them this morning, and the coating of blackness just laughed me off. I'll get a fresh container of spray cleaner today, but I expect it will take me 1-2 hours per wheel to get them back to "almost clean".
I really do like the brake feel with them on, do Hawk HPS pads offer similar bite? (or at least better than pepboys crap)
DO NOT USE THESE AS STREET PADS!!!
I left mine on the car after the event due to unforseen family circumstances. They were on the car for 1000 miles, 80% of which was highway miles (no brakes for hours at a time).
I just took them off this morning, and the rotors are at minimum thickness, shot. The pads look practically new. The rotors were NEW with the pads. If you use these as street pads, your rotors will be below minimum thickness before you need to change your oil, and they wear the rotor faster than the pad.
Also, the front wheels are BLACK with dust. I tried to clean them this morning, and the coating of blackness just laughed me off. I'll get a fresh container of spray cleaner today, but I expect it will take me 1-2 hours per wheel to get them back to "almost clean".
I really do like the brake feel with them on, do Hawk HPS pads offer similar bite? (or at least better than pepboys crap)
Not surprised. Check out this link (the section about abrasive and adherent friction):
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml
With the pads being very cold (even the light dragging they see at highway speeds isn't enough to heat up these pads), they are very abrasive.
I've almost rear-ended cars while on my way to grid with my cold Hawk Blues. And the first few corners on track are a little dicy until heat was generated.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml
With the pads being very cold (even the light dragging they see at highway speeds isn't enough to heat up these pads), they are very abrasive.
I've almost rear-ended cars while on my way to grid with my cold Hawk Blues. And the first few corners on track are a little dicy until heat was generated.
Don't know about the current Carbotechs since we haven't used them in ages on the race car. Definitely in favor of the Hawk line of brake pads!
I started using carbotechs when they were the only brake pads available for the MSP. I've had good luck with them so I stick with them. They also have contingency at Nationals for Time Trials. Hawk's class competitor number is too high for Time Trials right now.
I know plenty of others who like Hawk, so as long as you're not turned off by the corrosive dust of the Hawks you should be fine either way.
I rocked Hawk HP for many years and loved them. They were great for a occasional Time Trial and all the parking lot racing in the world. Its just after I got some R compounds tires and started to go to test and tunes that HP cant hold up. Plus I go DEEEEEEP(wow)(wow)(wow)(wow)
tripledigits
Member
You should wash your wheels when you change the track pads to the street pads. If you let the dust sit too long on the wheel, it's difficult to remove. I never drove on the street with the Hawk Blue compound, but found they weren't too tough on the rotors when used only on the track (Toyota Supra - 3400 lbs). In fact, I sold the Supra with its original rotors after owning it 3.5 years, and running 30+ track days (TT events and open track days) and 70+ autox days. Used Motul 600 fluid, never had any brake problems at a track known to be hard on brakes. I did use front cooling ducts, which is something everyone should consider for extended track use. Even if you're not having problems, keeping your brakes cooler will extend the life of the rotors, pads, wheel bearings, etc. I'd also recommend shooting your rotors with an infrared pyrometer right after you get off the track, so you can see where you are temp wise. You'll need a pyrometer that goes up to 1000 F, since my experience shows that I often am over 800 F front rotor temps.
I think you are fast enough that you won't be able to get away with the HP+. They really are a great autocross pad, but won't stand up to much track use. The Hawk Blue or HT-10 or the Carbotech XP-8 or XP-10 are better options at the track (for the front). I'm still using Carbotech Bobcat rear pads which are similar to a Hawk HPS. Too much lock-up for me with anything more than that.
major error
Member
- :
- 07 Mazda 3 GTS HB
As far as the dust is concerned, look for a wheel cleaner that has ammonia fluoride and/or ammonia bifluoride as the active ingredient.
Granted, I'm using it on stock wheels and OE pad dust, but it does a phenomenal job lifting off all the crud. I was able to clean off 98% of the cruft from this past winter in the first application, and all the remaining rust came off on the second...
Granted, I'm using it on stock wheels and OE pad dust, but it does a phenomenal job lifting off all the crud. I was able to clean off 98% of the cruft from this past winter in the first application, and all the remaining rust came off on the second...
Correction- they don't make anything more aggressive for the FRONT calipers. You can get the Blues for the rear. How good are you at chasing the back end?
LOL awesome
You know what I meant...
In other news, if anyone wants Cobalt Friction XR3 front pads for a MSP, PM me. There may be the possibility of a limited run.
