Turbine Tech Front Engine Mount

[Boost Addict]

Well I have driven a friend's red speed3 with the 88D on their car. I noticed nothing different compared to mine really. so I was actually considering it for mine. (shrug)

thanks for letting me know about the extra set of hands

yeah, the vibrations aren't as noticeable on the red speed3s.

 

[Koenig]

yeah, the vibrations aren't as noticeable on the red speed3s.

LOL

don't you mean any speed3? But were you joking with me or being serious?

Aren't they essentially the same engine? so the mounts should be the same, no? I'm starting to wonder now.

 

[Boost Addict]

LOL

don't you mean any speed3? But were you joking with me or being serious?

Aren't they essentially the same engine? so the mounts should be the same, no? I'm starting to wonder now.

I was just kidding with you.
I can't wait to get my CP-E mount and TWM bushings. I ripped a 4.91 0-60.3 bone stock!!! The shifts being tighter with less engine movement should yield me maybe 0.1-0.2 savings of shift time, no? While im already impressed with my current figures, I think it would be bad ass to have it run 4.7x with no power adders and on the piss-water 91 we have here in CA I certainly feel the car and I are capable of achieving this figure.

 

[Koenig]

I was just kidding with you.
I can't wait to get my CP-E mount and TWM bushings. I ripped a 4.91 0-60.3 bone stock!!! The shifts being tighter with less engine movement should yield me maybe 0.1-0.2 savings of shift time, no? While im already impressed with my current figures, I think it would be bad ass to have it run 4.7x with no power adders and on the piss-water 91 we have here in CA I certainly feel the car and I are capable of achieving this figure.

oh ok, and we'll need dash hawk read outs or something that displays your 4.7 0-60 (stoned)... you know for "proof" cause people are gonna ask.

 

[6speed6]

yea...haterz!

 

[Boost Addict]

oh ok, and we'll need dash hawk read outs or something that displays your 4.7 0-60 (stoned)... you know for "proof" cause people are gonna ask.

Quite frankly, I'm a bit baffled that nobody else is hitting 4.91 stock. The Speed6 has a really tricky clutch, and I still feel a really good driver should be able to hit 4.8x stock. I'll post my graphs, I have nothing to hide... I just gotta figure out how to do it.

EDIT: I can't figure out how to export, but I did a printscreen of the runs oldest to most recent...

Sometime last week: My first shot at 0-60 with nobody else in my car... 5.27

Immediately following the first run... 5.37

Yesterday Morning: After analyzing those first two runs, I focused more on slipping the clutch earlier and quicker without bogging the car down. Also launched at a lower rpm which sees better torque figures... 4.91

Immediately following the last run... 5.10

So as you can see, those graphs REALLY HELP when you look back at them and analyze your mistakes. And with the CP-E rear engine mount and TWM bushings I'll be getting in next week, I see no reason why the times shouldn't improve by at least a tenth of a second. Any thoughts?

 

[Koenig]

Well, for one, a lot of people still don't know how to launch the car, myself included.... sometimes I get good launches and others I just get CRAP. How much did you practice launching your car before you got that 4.9?

BTW.... are you turning the DSC off when you do that? cause if you're getting 4.9 witht he DSC on, I'll find that hard to believe.

 

[6speed6]

I'm sure he has DSC off, if you spin jus a lil on a launch then DSC will kill your fuel. I spent a month at the track and got maybe 3 really good launches, I also ended up burning out my rear diff and got lucky that the dealership warrantied the work so be careful. I would suggest getting those mounts before you practice launches, or just do them with decent intervals.

Those are good numbers tho as I think the specs say the car does a 6s 0-60. Might be wrong on that tho. It looks like you are launching at a high RPM tho. I was launching right at 3K when I busted out my 13.9 at the track.

 

[Boost Addict]

Well, for one, a lot of people still don't know how to launch the car, myself included.... sometimes I get good launches and others I just get CRAP. How much did you practice launching your car before you got that 4.9?

BTW.... are you turning the DSC off when you do that? cause if you're getting 4.9 witht he DSC on, I'll find that hard to believe.

This was only my 6th time launching the car... First 3 times, I was with a buddy, and I got 6.4, 6.8 and then 5.9... I was still getting accustomed to the clutch position and slipping it effectively. The next time, I was alone, I ran the 5.27 and 5.37, but was launching at too high an rpm and, after analyzing my graphs, I realized that I was taking almost a full second to slip the clutch. So then about a week later, I ran the 4.91 and 5.10. I could have gone for months launching the car improperly like you're suggesting you do. But the DashHawk has proven to be an invaluable tool in situations like these... I spent 5 minutes looking at my runs and realized my weaknesses and mistakes. Then you just consciously apply what you learned on your next run.

Launching this car is tricky because of it's grabby clutch. So if you release it too quickly, it will snap and create a shock in the driveline... A good rule of thumb is to ride out the clutch... There's a reason why I ride the clutch. It's better for performance and it's a safer too.

The link between the motor and tranny is the clutch... you control its seperation and its connection. The tranny has the resistence and weight of all the driveline components including the gears, driveshaft, differential, axles, etc... Those components are moving at a MUCH slower rate than the flywheel, so when you dump the clutch, you IMMEDIATELY introduce that overwhelming force to a SLOW and HEAVY turning transmission and components... What this does is slow the car down because there is a momentary halt in power when you connect a fast moving object to one that practically isn't moving at all and on top of it, carries all the weight and drag of said components. The damaging part of it is that during this immediate introduction of power, that energy had to go somewhere.... so it translates to drivetrain whiplash and violent movement, shock etc... Really, I'd rather replace a clutch than drivetrain components.

So that's why I progressively introduce the power to the drivetrain... It's still done quickly, but it's consciously progressive, and I always ride the clutch on those take offs and let it naturally ride itself out by the end of the powerband.

This car has incredible power, short gears, and a very capable AWD system. There's no reason why it should be stuck in the mid-high 5 second range when properly utilized.

 

[Boost Addict]

I'm sure he has DSC off, if you spin jus a lil on a launch then DSC will kill your fuel. I spent a month at the track and got maybe 3 really good launches, I also ended up burning out my rear diff and got lucky that the dealership warrantied the work so be careful. I would suggest getting those mounts before you practice launches, or just do them with decent intervals.

Those are good numbers tho as I think the specs say the car does a 6s 0-60. Might be wrong on that tho. It looks like you are launching at a high RPM tho. I was launching right at 3K when I busted out my 13.9 at the track.

Magazines got between 5.9-6.2... Car & Driver did the fastest run at 5.4

But that doesn't mean I'm a better driver than them. I just have the DashHawk graphs at my disposal and have the time to analyze them. Also, even only after a month of ownership, I have more wheel time than those test drivers.

DSC is always off on my 0-60 runs.

The rear engine mount is on it's way and so are the TWM bushings. I am very impatiently waiting for CP-E to release their rear diff mount. Or if anyone has suggestions, I'd love to hear it and do some research on it. Thanks in advance.

I am a little skeptical about upgrading therear engine mount without addressing the diff... I assume the transfer of energy would be even more violent against the rear diff. So I'm afraid of causing damage in that respect.

 

[6speed6]

I went to track about a year ago for a month and a half straight. Totally burned out my rear diff. Split a solid seal in half, burned up the clutches, and melted an electrical connector.

 

[Boost Addict]

I went to track about a year ago for a month and a half straight. Totally burned out my rear diff. Split a solid seal in half, burned up the clutches, and melted an electrical connector.

Do you feel the rear diff brace and mount are worthwhile upgrades? Or will these stiffer bushings transfer that negative energy to weaker parts of the drivetrain?

 

[Koenig]

whole bunch of s*** too much to quote

Wow, sounds like I should look into getting a dashhawk... how much do those usually go for?

You know the only probably with riding the clutch too much is burning it out.... which I think a lot of people have on their mind, cause after 12k miles the clutch is no longer under warranty. ya know?

Other than that those are some good times, I wonder what you'd nail in the 1/4 with a 4.9 0-60. I think I'm definitely going to consider getting a dashhawk.(boobs2)

 

[tunersteve]

Wow, sounds like I should look into getting a dashhawk... how much do those usually go for?

You know the only probably with riding the clutch too much is burning it out.... which I think a lot of people have on their mind, cause after 12k miles the clutch is no longer under warranty. ya know?

Other than that those are some good times, I wonder what you'd nail in the 1/4 with a 4.9 0-60. I think I'm definitely going to consider getting a dashhawk.(boobs2)

I'd go with the dash hawk or the Aeroforce gauge, just not sure which one I'm gonna get yet.

I'm thinking of going with a whole set of Defi gauges, but that's a pretty serious investment there.

 

[6speed6]

Do you feel the rear diff brace and mount are worthwhile upgrades? Or will these stiffer bushings transfer that negative energy to weaker parts of the drivetrain?

Yes I think so. I don't have them but as soon as I get the monies I will.

 

[Boost Addict]

Wow, sounds like I should look into getting a dashhawk... how much do those usually go for?

You know the only probably with riding the clutch too much is burning it out.... which I think a lot of people have on their mind, cause after 12k miles the clutch is no longer under warranty. ya know?

Other than that those are some good times, I wonder what you'd nail in the 1/4 with a 4.9 0-60. I think I'm definitely going to consider getting a dashhawk.(boobs2)

The dashhawk is the single best investment ive ever made on a car. Its pretty much fixed pricing, 299. Just buy from a placebthat offers free shipping like street unit. It reads engine codes, clears them, is the equivalent of having a bunch of gauges; boost, cat temp, intake temp, volts, load, knock, timing, mpg, etc, etc just to name a few. I figure a nice boost gauge with mount would cost between 250-300 and would be a one trick pony. This thing is programmable for alerts by changing colors and flashing at whatever you set it at. I use it as an rpm light daily whole monitoring boost pressure and mpg. I love it. And installed so clean without having to drill, cut, etc.

I too would love to know my 1/4 mile times, but have no place feasible to
go to. There's an 1/8 mi strip reasonably nearby that I'll run on against some wrxs and an ms3 and Z sometime in the upcoming weeks.

I get my mount and bushings in tomorrow and plan to install on Saturday. Hopefully I can break 4.91

 

[6speed6]

The dashhawk is the single best investment ive ever made on a car. Its pretty much fixed pricing, 299. Just buy from a placebthat offers free shipping like street unit. It reads engine codes, clears them, is the equivalent of having a bunch of gauges; boost, cat temp, intake temp, volts, load, knock, timing, mpg, etc, etc just to name a few. I figure a nice boost gauge with mount would cost between 250-300 and would be a one trick pony. This thing is programmable for alerts by changing colors and flashing at whatever you set it at. I use it as an rpm light daily whole monitoring boost pressure and mpg. I love it. And installed so clean without having to drill, cut, etc.

I too would love to know my 1/4 mile times, but have no place feasible to
go to. There's an 1/8 mi strip reasonably nearby that I'll run on against some wrxs and an ms3 and Z sometime in the upcoming weeks.

I get my mount and bushings in tomorrow and plan to install on Saturday. Hopefully I can break 4.91

Can you post some pics of the dash hawk in your car?

 

[Boost Addict]

Can you post some pics of the dash hawk in your car?

Absolutely! But you'll have to give me until Saturday, as I'm working everyday until then. And when I get home during the week, it's already nighttime.

But it's cake! The wire nicely tucks into the doorsill and hides away with no problem. And I just have the little clear velcro stuck right behind the vent on the left of the dash. You can install and remove on a whim. The wire plugs into your OBD-II port under the steering column, and the wire had a little slack, so I looped it once around the brace that the port is installed on and zip tied it. Everything is out of sight and clean, looks like a factory add-on. No wires showing, etc. Really, I'm impressed as I'm big on 'clean' looks.

My CP-E mount arrived THIS MORNING! (yippy) And I'm assuming my bushings will arrive later today or at least by friday.

Would it be helpful for anyone if I do a photo-accompanied install of the shifter bushings and rear engine mount? Because if it's something that hasn't been done here before, I'd be happy to lend some help to the community with a walk-through of each.

 

[tunersteve]

I know TWM already has the bushing install done, as it came in my package when I put mine in. As far as the engine mount, one of the 'other forums' has a how-to. My advice for the mount is to make sure you have a jack with a piece of wood to support the engine/trans when you pull the stock one, and you may have to break/cut the tabs located on the inside of the mounting tabs on the frame side of the mount. You'll see what i'm talking about when you get it off. Other than that, happy installing!

Absolutely! But you'll have to give me until Saturday, as I'm working everyday until then. And when I get home during the week, it's already nighttime.

But it's cake! The wire nicely tucks into the doorsill and hides away with no problem. And I just have the little clear velcro stuck right behind the vent on the left of the dash. You can install and remove on a whim. The wire plugs into your OBD-II port under the steering column, and the wire had a little slack, so I looped it once around the brace that the port is installed on and zip tied it. Everything is out of sight and clean, looks like a factory add-on. No wires showing, etc. Really, I'm impressed as I'm big on 'clean' looks.

My CP-E mount arrived THIS MORNING! (yippy) And I'm assuming my bushings will arrive later today or at least by friday.

Would it be helpful for anyone if I do a photo-accompanied install of the shifter bushings and rear engine mount? Because if it's something that hasn't been done here before, I'd be happy to lend some help to the community with a walk-through of each.

 

[Boost Addict]

How about you guys keep the off-topic stuff to PMs? Thanks.

its all indirectly on topic... we are talking about mounts, adolf (shady)