question on "safe mods"

Now we are starting to play semantics. Almost every kit on the market for our cars comes with the ability to run recir/partial recirc. You say BOV/BPV, I say BOV in VTA or Recirculation.

ya, i see a lot of people saying BOV to refer to either BPV or BOV.
 
So after reading the info in RED.
I can still get a BOV just as long as I set it to "recirculating". I should be fine. Right or did read that wrong?
 
then its technically not called a blow off valve, it would be a bypass valve unless its a hybrid and can do both.
 
Here is an idea: don't waste $300 on something that goes woosh. If you want to turn up boost upgrading your bpv isn't a bad idea. Stock works just fine.

There are a lot better mods for performance/handling. Bushings/mounts are a good start and can be done easily in just minutes. CAI/SRI has been shown to increase performance.
 
Here is an idea: don't waste $300 on something that goes woosh. If you want to turn up boost upgrading your bpv isn't a bad idea. Stock works just fine.

There are a lot better mods for performance/handling. Bushings/mounts are a good start and can be done easily in just minutes. CAI/SRI has been shown to increase performance.

Yea you are 100% correct but to many many people there is nothing more that tickles them pink than to hear the pressure release of a BOV or somthing like it. So people will want to get a BPV that will sound close.
 
Does anybody in here have an injen cold air intake? Do you guys recommend them? It worked great on my cobalt ss but I havent read any reviews for it on this forum.
Thanks
 
Here is an idea: don't waste $300 on something that goes woosh. If you want to turn up boost upgrading your bpv isn't a bad idea. Stock works just fine.

There are a lot better mods for performance/handling. Bushings/mounts are a good start and can be done easily in just minutes. CAI/SRI has been shown to increase performance.


Both of our valves, recirc and atmo, retail for $170.00. Also, most everyone that installs them gains (or more accurately no longer looses) 2-4 psi of boost and sees an enormous increase in driveability and transient throttle response. Some are seeing such a large increase that the OEM fuel pump is no longer adequate to meet the increased demands of the engine after the leaking factory valve has been replaced.

Let me make an analogy... running the OEM valve is akin to running your AC with the windows open, sure you can get cold but your air conditioning system is working much harder to achieve the same results. Instead of cranking up the fan speed or modifying things to spin the compressor faster why not roll up your windows?
 
Both of our valves, recirc and atmo, retail for $170.00. Also, most everyone that installs them gains (or more accurately no longer looses) 2-4 psi of boost and sees an enormous increase in driveability and transient throttle response. Some are seeing such a large increase that the OEM fuel pump is no longer adequate to meet the increased demands of the engine after the leaking factory valve has been replaced.

Let me make an analogy... running the OEM valve is akin to running your AC with the windows open, sure you can get cold but your air conditioning system is working much harder to achieve the same results. Instead of cranking up the fan speed or modifying things to spin the compressor faster why not roll up your windows?

good analogy!
 
None of it will void your warranty, period, unless it is directly related to the failure of the part. If you get hydrolock and bring your MS CAI car in and say fix, they will say ok, and then hand you a very nice bill for thier time.


Actually, reflashing the ECU with other than an offical mazda software revision will infact, void your warranty. Proving it is very easy for Ford/Mazda to do.. Quicker than checking for a chip since all they have to do is download the ROM revision through the OBD-II port. Ford proved this with the 03's cobras a year after people were making 600-750hp with them and roasting the pistons.
 
Both of our valves, recirc and atmo, retail for $170.00. Also, most everyone that installs them gains (or more accurately no longer looses) 2-4 psi of boost and sees an enormous increase in driveability and transient throttle response. Some are seeing such a large increase that the OEM fuel pump is no longer adequate to meet the increased demands of the engine after the leaking factory valve has been replaced.

Let me make an analogy... running the OEM valve is akin to running your AC with the windows open, sure you can get cold but your air conditioning system is working much harder to achieve the same results. Instead of cranking up the fan speed or modifying things to spin the compressor faster why not roll up your windows?

So you are saying that almost all of the stock bpv's are leaking? 2-4 psi is a lot to be leaking too. And your valve is holding the boost so well that the stock cdfp isn't able to deliver enough fuel?
 
So you are saying that almost all of the stock bpv's are leaking? 2-4 psi is a lot to be leaking too. And your valve is holding the boost so well that the stock cdfp isn't able to deliver enough fuel?

According to information provided by members of this board, that is the case. Similar results come from our Subaru valves, our VW and Audi valves. Supercharged VR6 guys report the same when changing from the valves included in their kits to our valves.
 
I think im going this route myself. As for the mount, i dont want any extra vibrations in my cabin.

You might consider the Corksport insert for the factory mount. Those of us that have it are very happy. Increased firmness without ridiculous vibration transference. Short money too!
 
Try epoxy, no vibes and it's on the cheap.

The one thing that the Corksport insert does that the epoxy trick does not is to thicken the area where the insert is placed. It doesn't just fill in the gaps to stiffen the mount. It turns it from a shape that is thicker in the middle than on the edges (which can rock in place) to one that is more hockey puck shaped and a little thicker than stock so it is more resistant to rocking as well as stiffer, without going overboard like some of the mounts.
In my opinion, due to the greater surface area of the load bearing section that fits into the pocket in the frame, it might actually turn out to be superior to some of the more expensive, fancier looking replacement mounts that have a smaller mounting area.
 

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