1.6 ZM going forged

155cc. psi ?

when I ran 6psi with a fmu everything seemed to run fine. I can't say for sure because I never dyno'd it and was running a narrowband at the time. it came from biknman so maybe he'll chime in. plus I was using stock fuel pump if it helps.
 
Witchdoktor said:
155cc. psi ?

when I ran 6psi with a fmu everything seemed to run fine. I can't say for sure because I never dyno'd it and was running a narrowband at the time. it came from biknman so maybe he'll chime in. plus I was using stock fuel pump if it helps.
Click to expand...

Ya 6 psi with a raising rate fuel pressure regulator that goes from stock fuel pressure around 40psi up to 70psi is pushing the stock injectors to their max duty cycle while try to target a AFR of say 12:1 under boost. I went with stock 1 gen Turbo Eclipse injectors something like 350cc and at 8-10 psi with 7:1 FPR running up to 90 psi and I was using up to 85% duty cycle also incorporated an SAFC at this point. To go above 8 psi I went with 550cc Mustang injectors the same raising rate but a mega squirt controlling the injectors pulse width and I only ran the injectors up to about 75% duty cycle at 18 psi also up graded the fuel pump to an Walbro 255gpr also started spraying methanol at 4psi of boost at 50spi ram-ping up to 100psi at 20psi of boost with a small nozzle on a Snow Performance system. Under boost I've always tried to target an AFR of 13:1 for 0-4psi, 12:1 for 4-8, and 11:1 for anything above 8 psi. Prior to the Mega Squirt I used an Super AFC (MAF) along with vacuum check valves (MAP) and O2 simulators to try and fool the stock ECU all the while always monitoring AFRs and EGTs which was constant pain in the ass. I worried all the time about what was going on so it didn't make for a very fun street vehicle for me. I even experimented with a POT dial on the water temp sensor. Basically anything above 8 psi you are going to need better fuel system and more control over timing and fuel to get the job done right.
 
hi all
may name is amro from saudi arabia and(sorry for ay english)

i need help to find parts tuning for may car mazda 3-1,6cc-107hp -manual gear - 2007

all thing (plug & pulley & Chiptuning Kit & Turbo Kit & short shift & calach )

thanks \bye
 
Last edited:
The 1.6L in your car probably isn't the ZM 1.6 discussed in this thread.

Also, your signature is too large, please shorten that.

Aside from that, welcome to the forums!
 
any 1.6ers wanting to go forged keep in mind the arias were made according to the belfab rods specs (B6 miata). the arias will not work with stock rods and if you look into other rods make sure the specs match up to the belfabs.
 
I got a question. I've been debating with a friend of mine on the need for a lightened fly wheel and an LSD for a car that will end up being boosted. I argue that both will be helpful in time attack and autocrossing. He argues that the fly wheel will benefit an NA car more than a turboed car, and that the LSD will only be good for drag racing. He's thick headed so info that ya'll can share would be greatly appreciated. Oh, this is my car we're talking about, I'm gathering bits and pieces as we speak so I can go turbo next year. I've got the 1.6L.
 
AzteCypher said:
I got a question. I've been debating with a friend of mine on the need for a lightened fly wheel and an LSD for a car that will end up being boosted. I argue that both will be helpful in time attack and autocrossing. He argues that the fly wheel will benefit an NA car more than a turboed car, and that the LSD will only be good for drag racing. He's thick headed so info that ya'll can share would be greatly appreciated. Oh, this is my car we're talking about, I'm gathering bits and pieces as we speak so I can go turbo next year. I've got the 1.6L.
Click to expand...

Having a lightened flywheel and LSD is a win/win. I have both, in both my cars. A lightened flywheel will allow you to go through your revs a lot quicker. If your motor can rev quicker, then you will spool quicker. Your turbo will still spool at the same rpm it's rated to spool at, but with a flywheel it will get to that rated rev a lot faster.

When you go to the an autocross, notice the cars with LSD, then notice the cars without LSD. On the cars without LSD, you will notice that when they start to exit hard out of a sharp corner, one wheel is barely moving while the other is smoking like a train. You don't want this. That will slow you down, as well as, uneven/premature tire wear.

The same advantages that a lightened flywheel and LSD provides for a N/A car, are the same advantages you will have for a turbo car. It doesn't change when add a turbo.
 
Last edited:
Stuff left for sale!

Bamba ZL-VE said:
Who is he and how can I contact him?
Clearing something out... my engine is the ZL-VE 1.5L not 1.6L but i do believe that all stock pulleys are the same in both
Click to expand...


It's me biknman or Dave. Sorry all the pulleys are sold.

I do have the following left for sale: :)

Set of front AWR reinforced control arms with bumper steer correction ball joints all billow ball bearings (aka spherical bearings) in stead of rubber bushings. $350.00 plus shipping

AWR front adjustable sway bar end-links $30 plus shipping.

AWR full adjustable rear lateral links and trailing arms with billow ball joints and all the correct spacers. $200.00 plus shipping

ACT clutch with an HD pressure plates and new 6 pad (non sprung) clutch disc and though out bearing with stainless steel clutch line. $100 plus shipping

Also found a set of rear APC carbon fiber look rear taillights. Make offer plus shipping

Four stainless steel and one mild steel exhaust flanges for making a turbo or NA header. $50 each plus shipping

Front set of Ground Control adjustable camber caster billow ball strut top plates. $150.00 plus shipping

Rear set of AWR billow ball struts (aka spherical bearings) tops $100.00 plus shipping

And couple of rear CF wings/spoilers one that's straight and one that is 3D in shape and type. Make offer plus shipping

B&M stainless steel short shifter with Kartboy bushings and Kartboy Silver knob all mounted to the linkage for easly installation. $100 plus shipping

Lastly a rear 3gen 4x100 drum to disc brake conversion kit with (must have 16" wheels or bigger) Wilwood Dynalite four piston calipers, Wilwood two piece rotors, Wilwood single piston emergency brake calipers, stainless steel brake lines, all mounted up to the sock spindles ready to bolt up. $500.00 plus shipping. That's over $1200 in parts and there is no other kit like this out there. FYI Wilwood pads and rotors used in this kits can be found just bout anywhere in the world for replacement as they wear out. Designed to be compliant with the stock master cylinder volume and brake basis valve.

Thanks
Dave
 
dave - pm sent on brake kit (my bank account hates you!)

VF24 turbo went to a local shop for P&P, this should start spool up 300-500 rpm quicker. I opted not to upgrade the compressor wheel even though it would add power it would add lag. the goal is not big numbers but rather usable power. 300whp is nice on a dyno but I'd rather take 225whp that you can use.
 
Witchdoktor said:
dave - pm sent on brake kit (my bank account hates you!) SORRY :) Sent ya a PM

VF24 turbo went to a local shop for P&P, this should start spool up 300-500 rpm quicker. I opted not to upgrade the compressor wheel even though it would add power it would add lag. the goal is not big numbers but rather usable power. 300whp is nice on a dyno but I'd rather take 225whp that you can use.
Click to expand...
I agree! The ZM although a awesome FI platform is no good off boost. You'll never needs tons of boost to make power for the weight of the car so I'd also short for quicker spooling vs lots of boost up high, which will make funner to driver daily driver any-who.
 
Item sold reuest to help other 1.6s with brake stuff

THe rear drum to disc brake kit SOLD

THe AWR front endlinks SOLD

ANd I have one less stainless steel exhaust flange for DIY header.

Still have all the other stuff.

As Witchdoktor is doing by documnting the forged build of the ZM motor. If the two guys I've sold the fornt BBK kit and rear drum to disc conversion kit are willing to make some drawings(tracings) on graph paper of the brackets along with listing all the diameters and dimensions before they install them, that would allow all the the other 3gen 4x100 Protegees to build their own front BBK and rear drum to disc conversion kits. Also would need a list of either the part numbers for the Wilwood calipers and rotors or detail descriptions i.e. caliper mounting hole/tabs length, distance, and diameter then the rotor hat dimensions with the rotor overall diameter and thickness measurements. Armed with all that info one could get the brackets made at machine shop or make them yourself and then give all the info on the rotors and calipers to say good race shop like HRP WORLD, CDOC, Wilwood direct , AWR, etc and they be able to get the proper caliper rotors and some stainless brake lines with proper adapter to hook up to the stock hard lines and calipers. I had all the info but after several computer cashes and my home burning to the ground in 04 lost it all.

Thanks
Dave

biknman said:
It's me biknman or Dave. Sorry all the pulleys are sold.

I do have the following left for sale: :)

Set of front AWR reinforced control arms with bumper steer correction ball joints all billow ball bearings (aka spherical bearings) in stead of rubber bushings. $350.00 plus shipping

AWR front adjustable sway bar end-links $30 plus shipping.

AWR full adjustable rear lateral links and trailing arms with billow ball joints and all the correct spacers. $200.00 plus shipping

ACT clutch with an HD pressure plates and new 6 pad (non sprung) clutch disc and though out bearing with stainless steel clutch line. $100 plus shipping

Also found a set of rear APC carbon fiber look rear taillights. Make offer plus shipping

Four stainless steel and one mild steel exhaust flanges for making a turbo or NA header. $50 each plus shipping

Front set of Ground Control adjustable camber caster billow ball strut top plates. $150.00 plus shipping

Rear set of AWR billow ball struts (aka spherical bearings) tops $100.00 plus shipping

And couple of rear CF wings/spoilers one that's straight and one that is 3D in shape and type. Make offer plus shipping

B&M stainless steel short shifter with Kartboy bushings and Kartboy Silver knob all mounted to the linkage for easly installation. $100 plus shipping

Lastly a rear 3gen 4x100 drum to disc brake conversion kit with (must have 16" wheels or bigger) Wilwood Dynalite four piston calipers, Wilwood two piece rotors, Wilwood single piston emergency brake calipers, stainless steel brake lines, all mounted up to the sock spindles ready to bolt up. $500.00 plus shipping. That's over $1200 in parts and there is no other kit like this out there. FYI Wilwood pads and rotors used in this kits can be found just bout anywhere in the world for replacement as they wear out. Designed to be compliant with the stock master cylinder volume and brake basis valve.

Thanks
Dave
Click to expand...
 
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