Anyone street tune using the CP-E

no, mine doest look anything like that. im not touching timing, my boost is 1 psi higher and im not taking away as much fuel
 
HMM wel imma try and use that tune tonite, well a modified version of urs
did u do 1.9 and right OR 2.9 like cp-e
if 1.9 why so low?
 
1.9 and right. Btw the screen shots are not from cpe. Some1 just tuned their car and sent the tune to cpe. cpe has nothing to do with that tune.
 
i really dont suggest u play with the tune unless u have a wideband
once u figure out ur a/f u can pull/add fuel to where u need to

does the car stutter or hesitate at all???
 
i really dont suggest u play with the tune unless u have a wideband
once u figure out ur a/f u can pull/add fuel to where u need to

does the car stutter or hesitate at all???

laloosh doesnt have a wideband does he

my car stutter after i have the cpe dp installed
 
i had that very problem and i ADDED fuel and it stopped
well tonite imma pull some fuel out kinda like laloosh and go from there
what im noticing now is that the car really isnt pulling hard anymore inthe higher rpm's my a/f is at 10.1ish and thats pig rich
imma try and lean it out to about 11.6ish and see how she pulls
 
can u tell me how to add/take out fuel on the tuning software??

u guys keep saying adding/taking out fuel...but i have no clue where to start.....
 
look at the screen shots. on the left you have rpm, across the top you have throttle voltage. the higher the voltage the higher the throttle input. If you go to program settings, click the all changes check box. Now your ready to change things around. click the box you want to change, or series of boxes by highlighting them. Once you do a pop up screen will show up asking you what you want to change the 0 value to. - subtracts fuel + adds fuel. Don't go crazy with taking away fuel and only take it away 1.9 voltage and higher. Also only take it away above 4k rpm if ure going to take it away at all. Like the above guy said, u really shouldnt be doing this without a wideband. As for me, ive been doing this for years, i make slight changes, nothing serious that might hurt my engine.
 
YEA no worries man
- once u fire up ur ems and hook i up to ur laptop open the standback programmer
-first step is to pull all the data from ur car, sl click the up arrow (make sure the ecu is hooked up tho)
-then click on the PROGRAM SETUP tab, and check the allow changes to tuning maps
- then click on either primary or seconday fueling ( my primary is 15, seconday is 17psi) lets use primary for argument sake
-click on the primary fueling tab
- now u will see a BUNCH of ZERO's acroos the page

Heres where u can mess up and cause stuff to go wrong
the top row where the number go from 0.0-5.0 is ur throttle position basically
the column goin from 000-7000 is ur rpms

now figure out wher abouts u wanna start throtle wise, (i started at 1.9 and right, so did laloosh)
now pick what rpms at the position u wanna add fuel
the number u replace the 0 with is gonna be a % increase, u can put 2 to do a 2% increase or -2 to decrese by 2%

just refer to the screen shots above ( AS AN EXAMPLE ) to see what to kinda do

ONLY MAKE MINOR CHANGES to avoid BLOWING UP ur motor
 
for some reason, no offense, but if you cant figure it out i really dont think you should be messing with it to much at first. dont even hook it up to the car, just play with the software wihtout sending anything to ecu untill ure sure u got everything right.
 
thats soo tru, its VERY important to kno what your changes are gonna do to ur car, if u dont kno what u are doin i wouldnt do it without a wideband
i've been doin this for many years and i WILL NEVER do this w/o a wideband
plus ill never touch timing unless on a dyno
 
im from north jersey. As for the manifold, my opinion is rather blah about the product. The original dyno was started higher in the rpm and read low. The manifold dyno was started lower in the rpm and thus made more whp. Personally i have never seen a manifold make that much power. My guess, same day back to back dynos starting in the same rpm....15whp MAX. But hey i could be wrong. As for the tune, its going to throw it off, anytime you change air input/output the a/f ratio changes. Than again this car defines logic.
 
k got it....so which map did you guys add/take away fuel...primary 15psi map or secondary map 17psi?

and after u done doing the changes click send all maps to standback ecu?
 
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