How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix
- Thread starter 122 Vega
- Start date
I want to do the same thing!
Can you tell me exactly what you did to do the IAC stuff and whatever you did to the PCV valve? I dont even know what they are, where they are, how to remove them, or what to do to them... (sorry im new to this)
Also i read up some on the seafoam stuff, what is the diff between deep creep and the regular stuff and how do you use them?
Can you tell me exactly what you did to do the IAC stuff and whatever you did to the PCV valve? I dont even know what they are, where they are, how to remove them, or what to do to them... (sorry im new to this)
Also i read up some on the seafoam stuff, what is the diff between deep creep and the regular stuff and how do you use them?
i disabled my EGR today and reset my ECU, runs perfect (idle and WOT), i agree with that other guy, the EGR to me seems useless.
instead of blocking the EGR i removed it, cleaned it and worked the spring so it would have maximum expansion (had to grind off all the s*** inside), i then left the solinoid thing off and just put the EGR back in place, zip tied the solinoid cable to another larger cable and reset the ECU.
instead of blocking the EGR i removed it, cleaned it and worked the spring so it would have maximum expansion (had to grind off all the s*** inside), i then left the solinoid thing off and just put the EGR back in place, zip tied the solinoid cable to another larger cable and reset the ECU.
rotorhead22
Member
I pulled the IAC off with no problem. You need a T27 Torx bit to take out the 2 screws holding it in. It is located above the throttle body(about the 11 oclock position). Round cylinder with an electical plug on it. CAUTION. Put a paper towel under mounting area, my plunger was stuck but then let loose and fell down to bottom of engine compartment. Took 30 minutes to find.Cleaned the gizmoe and put it back in and it fix the no idle problem we had.
I pulled the IAC off with no problem. You need a T27 Torx bit to take out the 2 screws holding it in. It is located above the throttle body(about the 11 oclock position). Round cylinder with an electical plug on it. CAUTION. Put a paper towel under mounting area, my plunger was stuck but then let loose and fell down to bottom of engine compartment. Took 30 minutes to find.Cleaned the gizmoe and put it back in and it fix the no idle problem we had.[/QUOTE]
I just did my IAC, but i would still like to know about the other one... the PCV haven't seen anything about that.
My reason for posting though is that i have a nice bit that i found that fits perfectly into the GFR's little cheese screws...
for getting those little screws out of the egr, i think the key is to get a phillips bit that really fits good, they are s***, but i didn't even slip once on them once i got the right head in there. I bought a little set from advance auto that was like 10 dollars and comes in a little blue case, they say 'mech power' on the front of the case, the long phillips bit in there is absolutely perfect, it grips so good and fits so perfect that the bit would actually stick to the screw heads and pull out of the driver, a good amount of down pressure (not much, im a weak ass) and they busted loose nice and clean, if anyone wants to see the set i can probly take a pic or try to find them on the site, it really did work really really well, i tried every other screwdriver that i had and almost started to strip one of them until i got this.
I just did my IAC, but i would still like to know about the other one... the PCV haven't seen anything about that.
My reason for posting though is that i have a nice bit that i found that fits perfectly into the GFR's little cheese screws...
for getting those little screws out of the egr, i think the key is to get a phillips bit that really fits good, they are s***, but i didn't even slip once on them once i got the right head in there. I bought a little set from advance auto that was like 10 dollars and comes in a little blue case, they say 'mech power' on the front of the case, the long phillips bit in there is absolutely perfect, it grips so good and fits so perfect that the bit would actually stick to the screw heads and pull out of the driver, a good amount of down pressure (not much, im a weak ass) and they busted loose nice and clean, if anyone wants to see the set i can probly take a pic or try to find them on the site, it really did work really really well, i tried every other screwdriver that i had and almost started to strip one of them until i got this.
rx7_drifter_
Member
- :
- '99 Protege LX 1.8L
I stripped one of the bolts from the EGR vavle to the TB. Does anyone know of a way to get it out now?
rx7_drifter_
Member
- :
- '99 Protege LX 1.8L
Yea I meant to say intake mani (stoned)... I did take off the TB and everything else in the way last time but the bolts were both really stuck and I ended up stripping one. Couldn't fit a wratchet down there so I used a short wratchet wrench but I wasn't able to apply torque to it from a good angle.
amsgator: is the bolt out kit from sears able to fit down in that tight space?
My EGR issue is slightly different that the others I have read here.
My '03 runs like a top at 81k but the CEL is on. Advance Auto pulled the code for me and sure enough it pointed to the EGR. I pulled mine out and used nearly a full can of Brake-Kleen to remove all the gunk and then lubed the valve with a little oil just like the tutorial suggests. Reinstallation went smoothly and the car continues to run well. I wouldn't even give a crap but I have to go through state emissions testing again and they won't do it with the CEL on.
So my question is this: How freely should the valve move within the housing? After a thorough cleaning mine was still pretty stiff. Should it basically float back and forth with ease or is a little tension the norm?
cheers, weitrhino
My '03 runs like a top at 81k but the CEL is on. Advance Auto pulled the code for me and sure enough it pointed to the EGR. I pulled mine out and used nearly a full can of Brake-Kleen to remove all the gunk and then lubed the valve with a little oil just like the tutorial suggests. Reinstallation went smoothly and the car continues to run well. I wouldn't even give a crap but I have to go through state emissions testing again and they won't do it with the CEL on.
So my question is this: How freely should the valve move within the housing? After a thorough cleaning mine was still pretty stiff. Should it basically float back and forth with ease or is a little tension the norm?
cheers, weitrhino
Mine seemed to still have a little bit of stick to it, even when i cleaned the living crap out of it. I posted somewhere else about what i found regarding the gunk that is present on the intake manifold where the egr bolts to it, that is probably your problem, mine has 157k miles and it was nearly carbonized shut, but there wasn't anything i could, because i don't know how to get that manifold off and back on safely without messing anything up to clean it. But if getting the valve itself clean doesn't help, that could be it anyway. if you take the egr off again, take a mirror and a flashlight and look at where it bolts to the manifold.
I hadn't considered carbon in the manifold itself. But I don't think that's the issue because the car seems to run perfectly, idle smoothly and continues to have a crisp throttle response. I don't have a new EGR to compare with, but I still need to know how easily the valve is meant to move back and forth. Again, after cleaning and lubricating I really had to force mine with a big pair of pump pliers to get it to move. This doesn't seem normal, but I want to be certain before shelling out the moolah for a new one.
cheers, weitrhino
cheers, weitrhino
rx7_drifter_
Member
- :
- '99 Protege LX 1.8L
The valve is supposed to be move very smoothly. As smooth as... ummm... the reset button on your computer I guess.
Mine was stuck just like yours when I took it off yesterday and what I did was spray brake cleaner in it and let it sit for a while. Then you try to operate the valve with pliers continuously (with the fluid still in) until it gets smoother. Do this a few times as necessary, then repeat it another 2 times with some lube until its smooth enough to work with your finger. Did the trick for mine. Smooth as a reset button (cabpatch)
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I may have to break down and just buy another one then. After working the valve back and forth for nearly an hour, and greasing the shaft, my efforts made little difference. It sure looked nice and clean!
Thanks for your feedback.
cheers, weitrhino
Thanks for your feedback.
cheers, weitrhino
kyle's protege5
Member
- :
- 2002 MP5-T
buy mine then!only has about 3000 miles on it Looks brand new still!
kyle, you have a PM.
cheers, weitrhino
i got a CEL P0140 (EGR flow insufficent) lol
anyway to tell the computer to STFU?
btw my car runs like brand new with the EGR disabled (solinoid removed). i was too lazy to make a block plate. but its the same effect, theres no way the valve can open since theres nothing to push the spring in.
if i cant get rid of the engine light then i guess ill stop caring then.
anyway to tell the computer to STFU?
btw my car runs like brand new with the EGR disabled (solinoid removed). i was too lazy to make a block plate. but its the same effect, theres no way the valve can open since theres nothing to push the spring in.
if i cant get rid of the engine light then i guess ill stop caring then.
93Protege5
Member
Sweet Thread. I printed off all of these pages. Should make some good bathroom reading.
The Result of My EGR Adventure: Replaced for Free
At 72,650KM encountered rough idle that progressed to stalling and check engine light after 5 more days. Cleaned EGR with Carb cleaner. Fixed problem.
After less than 300KM rough idle returned. Cleaned EGR again but ALSO lubed with 3en1 oil.
After that the problem was fixed for 8,000KM before it returned once again.
After calling Mazda Canada, they confirmed that there was a bulletin regarding the EGR's on Proteges on and around the 2002 year, and when I called my dealer, he researched it and confirmed this. He did not call the bulletin a "recall", but a "Customer Satisfaction" something-or-other. In any case, the warranty period under this bulletin announced that for EGR's in the covered years, the warranty has been extended to 2008.
This may not be the 100% exact nature of things, but only what I understand. Regardless, this was the result: Mine was replaced for free.
Lance
At 72,650KM encountered rough idle that progressed to stalling and check engine light after 5 more days. Cleaned EGR with Carb cleaner. Fixed problem.
After less than 300KM rough idle returned. Cleaned EGR again but ALSO lubed with 3en1 oil.
After that the problem was fixed for 8,000KM before it returned once again.
After calling Mazda Canada, they confirmed that there was a bulletin regarding the EGR's on Proteges on and around the 2002 year, and when I called my dealer, he researched it and confirmed this. He did not call the bulletin a "recall", but a "Customer Satisfaction" something-or-other. In any case, the warranty period under this bulletin announced that for EGR's in the covered years, the warranty has been extended to 2008.
This may not be the 100% exact nature of things, but only what I understand. Regardless, this was the result: Mine was replaced for free.
Lance
