Something along these lines...
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/158784
Or go to siliconeintakes.com (or something along those lines) and buy one.
ALL Unichip Questions / Problems
- Thread starter Rush
- Start date
Something along these lines...
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/158784
Or go to siliconeintakes.com (or something along those lines) and buy one.
(mswerd)
As Sam said, if the car has some issues, it won't run right with the Unichip.
So I got a hold of a Boost Leak tester and found one leak. I changed the hose and took it for a spin....so I still had the initial start up stall that I have originally been having. But the car doesnt jerk as much. So I took it for about a 30 mile drive and I throw a CEL. I run the Codes and I get P0300 which is multiple cylinder misfire and I get P0171, which is saying Bank 1 Sensor 1 low voltage output.........But the O2 sensor is brand new mot even 100 miles on it......Could I be getting that P0171 from the misfiring that is going on? And I still can't figure out what is causing the stall at cold startup.(coffee)
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- 2003 Subaru WRX Wagon, 2000 Miata
I didn't want to post it up, but here we go:
I bought the Unichip slightly used 2 years ago and after installation, it has ran flawlessly.
The problem started occurring intermittently in June, but did not become a serious problem until early July. The problem is that when accelerating, the engine RPMs would bounce all over the place. Even with a steady foot trying to hold a certain RPM in NEUTRAL, the RPMs would just bounce up and down. (I have a video of this that I will post up). The weird thing is that it idles perfectly fine. This happened several times, but the two most serious times were on the highway. I would slow down because of traffic and when traffic cleared up I would start accelerating and the RPMs would bounce so much that the car was basically jerking until I could pull over. The feeling felt like fuel cut or a fuel delivery problem. This happened several times on local streets as well. I had to disconnect the battery terminal to reset the ECU. No CEL ever came on.
The reason I said it was isolated to the Unichip is because the last time I was stuck on the side of the road, I had no choice but to pull the Unichip out of the car. Afterwards, the car ran fine (albeit not as smooth/powerful without the working Unichip). I checked all my fuses, relays, spark plugs, vacuum lines, etc, and did not find anything wrong. I reinstalled the Unichip a few days later, but came across the exact same problems. I pulled it again and it has been running fine for several weeks without the Unichip. At first, I thought it was the hot weather that caused the bogging/jerking. But the other major time it happened on the highway, it was 65F outside at night and the same thing happened. My car has been running perfectly since I took it out.
I sent the Unichip in to get looked at in early September. It was obviously out of warranty, but the sad thing was they weren't even going to look at it without charging me a ridiculous amount of money. I basically wrote in and said that if you care about your product and stand behind it, then find out what went wrong. They haven't answered back.
So I'm just sitting here waiting for their reply. I wonder how long it will take....
I bought the Unichip slightly used 2 years ago and after installation, it has ran flawlessly.
The problem started occurring intermittently in June, but did not become a serious problem until early July. The problem is that when accelerating, the engine RPMs would bounce all over the place. Even with a steady foot trying to hold a certain RPM in NEUTRAL, the RPMs would just bounce up and down. (I have a video of this that I will post up). The weird thing is that it idles perfectly fine. This happened several times, but the two most serious times were on the highway. I would slow down because of traffic and when traffic cleared up I would start accelerating and the RPMs would bounce so much that the car was basically jerking until I could pull over. The feeling felt like fuel cut or a fuel delivery problem. This happened several times on local streets as well. I had to disconnect the battery terminal to reset the ECU. No CEL ever came on.
The reason I said it was isolated to the Unichip is because the last time I was stuck on the side of the road, I had no choice but to pull the Unichip out of the car. Afterwards, the car ran fine (albeit not as smooth/powerful without the working Unichip). I checked all my fuses, relays, spark plugs, vacuum lines, etc, and did not find anything wrong. I reinstalled the Unichip a few days later, but came across the exact same problems. I pulled it again and it has been running fine for several weeks without the Unichip. At first, I thought it was the hot weather that caused the bogging/jerking. But the other major time it happened on the highway, it was 65F outside at night and the same thing happened. My car has been running perfectly since I took it out.
I sent the Unichip in to get looked at in early September. It was obviously out of warranty, but the sad thing was they weren't even going to look at it without charging me a ridiculous amount of money. I basically wrote in and said that if you care about your product and stand behind it, then find out what went wrong. They haven't answered back.
So I'm just sitting here waiting for their reply. I wonder how long it will take....
Velocifero
Wham Bam thank you Ma'am
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- VRM MS6, Sunlight Silver MSP
That's crappy, I can appreciate the need to make money, I really can, but they should look into what caused the problem at least. then let you know what needs to be done and the cost, then you can decide if fixing it is worth it. It shouldn't be the other way around just to find the problem. I hate that. Good luck Chops.
Hmmm so here is a funny update. I wanted to make sure it wasn't the spark plugs that was the issue. So I got of plugs to put in there. When I go to take the plugs out. I notice the wrong plugs with the wrong size plug gaps, are in the engine. THANK YOU ALLASPECT MOTORSPORTS!!! Thats another story, Great Guy, Great Shop, semi- decent work(bang) (woulda been better but they left a few easy fixes and odds and ends undone that hindered the performance of my car)..... So I replaced the plugs and closed the BOV more and the car starts up on the first try now.......but now the ride seems rough again, like i am learning to drive a stick all over again....but I am shifting where I would normally be shifting at.....any clues why the drive would be so horrible? ...... lol maybe I can't drive for my life.
Yup. I had the battey disconnected when I was swapping out the plugs. Hooked everything back up. Started the car up. and for s**** and giggles I reset the ECU again just to be safe.(thumb)
- :
- 2003 Subaru WRX Wagon, 2000 Miata
thanks... i'm still waiting for the day they email me back...... (sleep)
Did you call Unichip and see? I called up the 800 line and talked to a guy named Jim. He was a jerk. Instead of tryin to recommend something or how to locate someone to assist me with my issue. All I got was " check the website, and good luck."
I tried locating half the tuners that are up to about 5 hours away from me and they don't tune for mazdaspeed proteges. Most places only deal with high end vehicles..i.e. lamborghinis and ferraris and maserati as one lady from PA told me.(homework)
So my car is just being difficult now. 
I made a mistake when I was putting the spark plugs in my car.....i gapped them too big.(second) So I put a fresh set in and gapped them to .030. The car runs 300% smoother. But back to my main issue. The car wont startup right. It would take about 4 or 5 starts before it holds the idle and not stall out. I was thinking it is the BOV, but even when I close the BOV down all they way it still stalls. But it holds the start quicker when its fully open....needless to say I am gonna leave the BOV fully open now.
Also, randomly, after I let the car warm up. I go to leave my parking spot and the car gets the rough idle and then will not go anywhere......keep in mind i don't have an LSD. So where does one go from here? (shrug)
I made a mistake when I was putting the spark plugs in my car.....i gapped them too big.(second) So I put a fresh set in and gapped them to .030. The car runs 300% smoother. But back to my main issue. The car wont startup right. It would take about 4 or 5 starts before it holds the idle and not stall out. I was thinking it is the BOV, but even when I close the BOV down all they way it still stalls. But it holds the start quicker when its fully open....needless to say I am gonna leave the BOV fully open now.Also, randomly, after I let the car warm up. I go to leave my parking spot and the car gets the rough idle and then will not go anywhere......keep in mind i don't have an LSD. So where does one go from here? (shrug)
So my car is just being difficult now.
Also, randomly, after I let the car warm up. I go to leave my parking spot and the car gets the rough idle and then will not go anywhere......keep in mind i don't have an LSD. So where does one go from here? (shrug)
Does it run well w/out the unichip?
Yep. I corrected any issues it had and ran it like that for about a good few weeks before I put in the Unichip. As everyone says there shouldnt be an CELs and the car should be in good running conidition before installin gthe Unichip.(shrug)
yashart_mp3
Member
- :
- Black Mica MS3
UNINSTALL THE UNICHIP ASAP
If the unichip really is the source of all or problems, you should really uninstall it and have it repaired/ fix it yourself. I believe Concept_MSP posted directions on what to measure and how to fix the issue. If the car is running fine without it, then do not install it again. You can do severe damage to your motor and/or electrical system if it is not working as it is supposed to.
Agreed completely.
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- 2003 Subaru WRX Wagon, 2000 Miata
Yeah, if you are experiencing any problems, disconnect the Unichip ASAP. It is not only to keep your engine intact, but it's also a personal safety thing. For me, I was on the highway when my problems occurred. Luckily it was at a slow speed (accelerating from a dead stop). But what if it happened at a higher speed. Definitely a safety issue.
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- 2003 Subaru WRX Wagon, 2000 Miata
Well, good news is that they found nothing wrong with the Unichip. Whether that means it will work in my car or not is another story. I'm going to reinstall it when I receive it in the mail (two or three days from now). Crossing my fingers.
