MBC and our MS3 ECU...

[CaSHMeRe]

thanks. no CEL is caused whatsover, and I actually have my manual boost controller right next to the battery, clearly visible, with vacuum lines going to the wastegate and the vac. source down there. i went in for the motor mount recall and they pulled the battery for testing and what not, they never said anything, and then i went in for a rattle in the trunk, but always pop the hood, and they didnt say anything about my ziptie k&n intake, bov, or boost controller.

i found my mod friendly dealership

mrlil guy seems to be responsible with his mbc and boost cut killer. i personally wouldn't recommend it. too many kids get the urge, turn that s*** up and blow their s*** sky high.

wait for a tuning solution!

 

[mrlilguy157]

mrlil guy seems to be responsible with his mbc and boost cut killer. i personally wouldn't recommend it. too many kids get the urge, turn that s*** up and blow their s*** sky high.

wait for a tuning solution!

i've blown a motor before. it sucks so i don't mind keeping the boost down. i also know this turbo kinda sucks past about 20psi, if not before that. as does the intercooler. too many crappy parts to rely on. too hott = more possibilites for detonation = POP!

 

[borderline]

CaSHMeRe: You have the CB hood? Did you bought it at steetunit? Wondering if the fitting is really good...
you have some big pics?
you can send PM if you prefer, thanks dude!

 

[bast525]

I'm interested in doing this, not so much to raise overall boost levels... but more to hold more boost past 5500 rpm. I understand that boost drops down pretty bad by 6000 rpm and I want to bring some of that back. Overall i don't think i would go much above 17-18psi peak.

Also, I want to be allowed full boost in 1st and 2nd gear and get some of that power back as well.


So... if you have turned the stock boost up to 20 psi or whatever, what does it hold? by 6000 rpm? by redline?

 

[x'ed]

I did wonder if the ATP boost cut elim. worked or not. How was the install? i have not even looked to see where the MAP sensor is....got any pics?

Is this ATP boost cut a thing that lets it rev past 5700rpm with some actual power.

 

[Haltech]

Is this ATP boost cut a thing that lets it rev past 5700rpm with some actual power.

Nah, it keeps the wastegate from overboosting so it doesnt blow the motor.
Theres people here experiencing overboosting with CAIs on their cars.

 

[laloosh]

Hmm this is somethign i would also like to try. Run 18psi and pick up 20 to the wheels for 50 bucks is never a bad thing.

 

[bast525]

Boost controller = $50 (can make one cheap for about $10, ball and spring valve type)
Boost Gauge = ~$75
Boost cut defenser = $80


Just clarifying that. Either way... yeah not bad 20 hp for about $200 (less if you make the MBC yourself).

Can ANYONE comment on the MS3/6 having any part-throttle-over-boost issues? I know it's a small turbo... is anyone getting any surging after installing an MBC?

 

[mrlilguy157]

Boost controller = $50 (can make one cheap for about $10, ball and spring valve type)
Boost Gauge = ~$75
Boost cut defenser = $80


Just clarifying that. Either way... yeah not bad 20 hp for about $200 (less if you make the MBC yourself).

Can ANYONE comment on the MS3/6 having any part-throttle-over-boost issues? I know it's a small turbo... is anyone getting any surging after installing an MBC?

Buy the ATP boost cut killer along with a manual boost controller (I'll sell you a boost controller for $20 - Joe P.) and a gauge (I'll sell ya for 35$) and turn it up and watch the wheels spin.

No surging unless you turn the boost WAAYYYYYY up out of effeciency range.

Feel free to call with questions.

Jonathan Martin
214.957.0461

 

[speedi3]

Hello,
Does anyone have an anwser to this (sorry for my bad english!):

-If we raise the boost level (with a MBC), it is supposed that the ENGINE will throw a code to the ECU saying that the boost level has been raised over the factory limit BUT this is done without throwing a CELL! (so you won't notice it) The code is stored somewhere in the ECU and disconnecting the battery won't erase it at all.

Apparently, the dealer can see that "stored" code with their diagnostic tool.
But I don't know how! Someon know if a CAN-BUS code reader can see and erase that code?
(Guess NOT, Mazda engineers are not imbeciles like that)

Someone know more about this?
Cuz this is not a clue, if the dealer see this you can say GOODBYE to the warranty!!

This is what my local MAZDA tech said to me, but it is true?

I had this very thing happen this week. Infact the car is still at the dealer. the code is p0234. It happens but no light came on a while back. The dealer fortunately for me has been very cool fixed what he could but couldn't clear that code. I get my car back on Wednesday but your tech is accurate. They did try the old "if you mod you void your warranty" but completed the work that they could w/o touching anythign aftermarket. I think its all based on the dealer that you work with.

 

[mrlilguy157]

I had this very thing happen this week. Infact the car is still at the dealer. the code is p0234. It happens but no light came on a while back. The dealer fortunately for me has been very cool fixed what he could but couldn't clear that code. I get my car back on Wednesday but your tech is accurate. They did try the old "if you mod you void your warranty" but completed the work that they could w/o touching anythign aftermarket. I think its all based on the dealer that you work with.

I'm not buying into this. Boost spikes happen all the time at 20psi + on stock setup.

 

[bast525]

Buy the ATP boost cut killer along with a manual boost controller (I'll sell you a boost controller for $20 - Joe P.) and a gauge (I'll sell ya for 35$) and turn it up and watch the wheels spin.

No surging unless you turn the boost WAAYYYYYY up out of effeciency range.

Feel free to call with questions.

Jonathan Martin
214.957.0461

How does this affect 1st and 2nd gear power? easy wheel spin in 1st now? Like... if you're already rolling, 5mph, and punch it, will the wheels spin? My SRT-4 used to do this... MS3 doesn't do it even with traction control off, unless it's wet out, then it will break them loose in first and second.

 

[mrlilguy157]

How does this affect 1st and 2nd gear power? easy wheel spin in 1st now? Like... if you're already rolling, 5mph, and punch it, will the wheels spin? My SRT-4 used to do this... MS3 doesn't do it even with traction control off, unless it's wet out, then it will break them loose in first and second.

yea you can break them loose quite easily.... although thats kinda dumb because i like when my car rolls forward with traction

 

[borderline]

mrlilguy157, do you think the ATP boost cut def. will prevent the ECU to "record" and store an overboosting condition? cuz I guess the engine won't even notice the turbo is overboosting (example: 19 psi) all the time.

This is what a guy from ATP said to me regarding the fuel cut defender: the extra pressure going into the MAP sensor that the ECU monitors is bled
off to atmosphere before it makes it into the sensor so the high value is
never sent to the ECU

speedi3: Thanks for sharing your experience, so my dealer tech is not a liar finally!

 

[fourthmeal]

P0234 -

This is a Wastegate System Monitor problem.

Not a code I'd want to have, for sure.

 

[bast525]

I want to do this but not in any way if it's going to affect or possibly affect my warranty.

I don't want to run big boost... 17-18 psi tops because I can plainly see on my dyno that there is extra fuel there, and I wouldn't turn the boost up til I was on the dyno and could make sure the air/fuel ratio stays safe.

I don't want huge power... I want the power limit lessened or removed in first and second gear, and I want the car not to run so damn rich.

But most of all I don't want Mazda to void my warranty.

Are we SURE this boost cut defenser will keep the ECU from seeing the increased boost and throwing some internal codes??

 

[mrlilguy157]

I want to do this but not in any way if it's going to affect or possibly affect my warranty.

I don't want to run big boost... 17-18 psi tops because I can plainly see on my dyno that there is extra fuel there, and I wouldn't turn the boost up til I was on the dyno and could make sure the air/fuel ratio stays safe.

I don't want huge power... I want the power limit lessened or removed in first and second gear, and I want the car not to run so damn rich.

But most of all I don't want Mazda to void my warranty.

Are we SURE this boost cut defenser will keep the ECU from seeing the increased boost and throwing some internal codes??

i've been 3 times to the dealer and ran the boost cut killer module 2 weeks after i bought the car.

no one has ever mentioned anything, but they did jokingly give me a hard time about the blow off valve

 

[bast525]

i've been 3 times to the dealer and ran the boost cut killer module 2 weeks after i bought the car.

no one has ever mentioned anything, but they did jokingly give me a hard time about the blow off valve

I am going to call you some time soon to discuss this a little further and possibly buy a gauge and MBC from you. If I can make ~20 whp for less than $200 and not hurt the warranty (or the engine!!!) that's hard to pass up.

 

[mrlilguy157]

I am going to call you some time soon to discuss this a little further and possibly buy a gauge and MBC from you. If I can make ~20 whp for less than $200 and not hurt the warranty (or the engine!!!) that's hard to pass up.

now would be a good time to call.

 

[laloosh]

now would be a good time to call.

pm sent(shady)