MBC and our MS3 ECU...

[borderline]

Hello,
Does anyone have an anwser to this (sorry for my bad english!):

-If we raise the boost level (with a MBC), it is supposed that the ENGINE will throw a code to the ECU saying that the boost level has been raised over the factory limit BUT this is done without throwing a CELL! (so you won't notice it) The code is stored somewhere in the ECU and disconnecting the battery won't erase it at all.

Apparently, the dealer can see that "stored" code with their diagnostic tool.
But I don't know how! Someon know if a CAN-BUS code reader can see and erase that code?
(Guess NOT, Mazda engineers are not imbeciles like that)

Someone know more about this?
Cuz this is not a clue, if the dealer see this you can say GOODBYE to the warranty!!

This is what my local MAZDA tech said to me, but it is true?

 

[TX Speed 6]

Yes, a cleared cel will still be stored, and the dealer can see even after its gone. If it reads that the boost was altered, more than likely whenever you have an issue with your car they will try and relate it to that and not do any warranty covered work.

 

[borderline]

Is there a solution for that? is it still possible to erase that STICKY code?
There is no tool available on the market to do this?

 

[fourthmeal]

I think overboost closes the throttle-by-wire. Thus wasting your efforts. Call me on it if I'm wrong.

 

[mrlilguy157]

yall are silly. i run 20psi on the stock turbo daily.

Manual Boost Controller, and ATP boost cut killer. its $75 dollars, well worth it, and what it does is bleed off the pressure that goes into the MAP sensor (which senses boost levels) and retains it at 15.6psi at the sensor, although its higher in the actual manifold.

buy a Joe P manual boost controller (they're super simple and easy) for about $50.

enjoy the added power, get no fuel/boost cut whatsoever, and no CEL

call me for questions.

Jonathan Martin
214.957.0461


edit: also - i've been to the dealer 3 times and they've plugged in everytime and never have said anything.

 

[Jays07MS3]

I think overboost closes the throttle-by-wire. Thus wasting your efforts. Call me on it if I'm wrong.

I'm curious as to what would happen if a boost controller was used and set at the stock 15.6 psi. Would an over-boost condition occur in 1st and 2nd gear? If not, then it could be a way to overcome the limitation in those gears while still maintaining stock boost levels.

 

[tru-boost]

yall are silly. i run 20psi on the stock turbo daily.

Manual Boost Controller, and ATP boost cut killer. its $75 dollars, well worth it, and what it does is bleed off the pressure that goes into the MAP sensor (which senses boost levels) and retains it at 15.6psi at the sensor, although its higher in the actual manifold.

buy a Joe P manual boost controller (they're super simple and easy) for about $50.

enjoy the added power, get no fuel/boost cut whatsoever, and no CEL

call me for questions.

Jonathan Martin
214.957.0461


edit: also - i've been to the dealer 3 times and they've plugged in everytime and never have said anything.

that mod does work, but i can tell you this. at 20 psi the turbo is WAY out of its efficiency range. after 18 psi you actually lose power. i showed less power at 20 psi than at 17psi on the AMS dyno. the motor is good for it, but the turbo isnt ! you are actually slower now !

 

[oskinosmee]

what do you dyno at 18 psi

 

[jhowey]

Stupid question. If your computer thinks your spooling 15.6psi but your really spooling 18-20 psi, how does that give you power, wouldnt you need more fuel, and your computer not know it needs to give it to the car?

 

[Jays07MS3]

Stupid question. If your computer thinks your spooling 15.6psi but your really spooling 18-20 psi, how does that give you power, wouldnt you need more fuel, and your computer not know it needs to give it to the car?

The amount of fuel the ECU calculates is based off of the MAF reading not the MAP pressure readings. So it only cares how much air is entering the engine not the pressure in the manifold. I believe this is the case but I could be wrong.

 

[itzl0l]

that mod does work, but i can tell you this. at 20 psi the turbo is WAY out of its efficiency range. after 18 psi you actually lose power. i showed less power at 20 psi than at 17psi on the AMS dyno. the motor is good for it, but the turbo isnt ! you are actually slower now !

i remember when people said that about the srt-4 turbo. Peeps also said that you could never get 300whp out of the stock turbo and it was not effecient above 17 psi. Bout a year later folks were running 20+ psi and making 300whp without too much trouble...it was all in the tuning...and keeping the charge cool (either water/meth inj. and or a big ass intercooler)

 

[itzl0l]

yall are silly. i run 20psi on the stock turbo daily.

Manual Boost Controller, and ATP boost cut killer. its $75 dollars, well worth it, and what it does is bleed off the pressure that goes into the MAP sensor (which senses boost levels) and retains it at 15.6psi at the sensor, although its higher in the actual manifold.

buy a Joe P manual boost controller (they're super simple and easy) for about $50.

enjoy the added power, get no fuel/boost cut whatsoever, and no CEL

call me for questions.

Jonathan Martin
214.957.0461


edit: also - i've been to the dealer 3 times and they've plugged in everytime and never have said anything.

I did wonder if the ATP boost cut elim. worked or not. How was the install? i have not even looked to see where the MAP sensor is....got any pics?

 

[Haltech]

You should be able to clear any stored code with this software:

http://www.therpmstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=122&products_id=146

 

[MS3ICA]

when the turbo goes out of the efficiancy range does that over rev the turbo?, mine spikes to 20 any time i floor it in 5th or 6th gear, doease that ruin the turbo?

 

[mrlilguy157]

I did wonder if the ATP boost cut elim. worked or not. How was the install? i have not even looked to see where the MAP sensor is....got any pics?

yes it works, install took 10minutes, and its an amzing little piece of machinary.

map sensor is on the opposite side of the intake manifold that the throttle body is.... about the same location. its tucked behind an electrical connector. 1 bolt holds it in.

i suggest anyone to buy it - mad props to ATP, for they're the only company thats produced a product like this. i dont have pictures, but they'd look identical to what ATP has posted for the install guide.....

 

[tru-boost]

i remember when people said that about the srt-4 turbo. Peeps also said that you could never get 300whp out of the stock turbo and it was not effecient above 17 psi. Bout a year later folks were running 20+ psi and making 300whp without too much trouble...it was all in the tuning...and keeping the charge cool (either water/meth inj. and or a big ass intercooler)

with meth inl....OK, but that is the only way to get it cool enough to actually make more power. i dont have the stack of dyno sheetsa they gave me in front of me but i think it was like a 17HP 20TQ gain at 18psi compared to 16psi

 

[fourthmeal]

makes sense, rule of thumb measurements show that 11hp per psi is in the ballpark.

 

[itzl0l]

with meth inl....OK, but that is the only way to get it cool enough to actually make more power. i dont have the stack of dyno sheetsa they gave me in front of me but i think it was like a 17HP 20TQ gain at 18psi compared to 16psi

yea that sounds about right. I wonder if any1 has done meth inj on one of these yet...hmm. Another thing to think about is that no matter what, on a dyno you'll never get the same airflow across the IC as you do at normal driving speeds.

 

[borderline]

Does what I'm talkin about is called: pending codes?

mrlilguy157: This is a nice setup , but you have no trouble with the CELL or the dealer at all with this setup?

 

[mrlilguy157]

Does what I'm talkin about is called: pending codes?

mrlilguy157: This is a nice setup , but you have no trouble with the CELL or the dealer at all with this setup?

thanks. no CEL is caused whatsover, and I actually have my manual boost controller right next to the battery, clearly visible, with vacuum lines going to the wastegate and the vac. source down there. i went in for the motor mount recall and they pulled the battery for testing and what not, they never said anything, and then i went in for a rattle in the trunk, but always pop the hood, and they didnt say anything about my ziptie k&n intake, bov, or boost controller.

i found my mod friendly dealership