Replaced Headgasket - Now worse than before - HELP!

[jcryderm7]

Hi everyone. I'm new to the forum and new to engine work. I have a 02 Protege ES 2.0l. I bought this car and within a month it was leaking coolant into cylinder 1. The timing belt and water pump were replaced before I purchased the car. Also found that the thermostat was replaced.

My wife severely overheated the car and the leaking began into the cylinder. I purchased a gasket set and began the tear down. Sent the cylinder head out to the shop and has it shaved, and refurbed. They pressure tested it and said it was good. I cleaned the block and looked in all the cylinders and they looked fine. I replaced the headgasket but didn't check the block with a straight edge.

Replaced everything to the book specs (headbolts, cams etc.) Timing was good. Started the car back up and everything seemed good except the coolant reservoir was bubbling. I went for a 5 kms drive and parked the car. The bubbling was happening before I replaced the HG. Found that my rad was toast and would not seal at the rad cap, which was also replaced by me on the old rad. Purchased and installed a new rad and now the car is pumping out white smoke. Looked at my plugs and all of them are wet and looks likes burnt coolant in my cylinders.

What could have happened? Now the cooling system gets proper pressure and is making its way into the cylinders? I am regretting not just buying a new engine or atleast having the block looked at. I'm not sure what to do. I overpaid on the car and now have put another 600 into it. It's worth nothing to sell now and don't want to sell something with issues to something else.

Please help.

 

[thuzil]

Simple answer is you need to redo the head gasket again. The block should be fine. It is hard to get warped, unlike the head.

Did you torque the bolts in three steps all around?

 

[jcryderm7]

Well I like that better than the block or a new engine. I did the torquing in three steps. The spec ft/lbs first and then two seperate 90 degree turns in it's specified order.

Should I replace the gasket again? Likely need another set of headbolts too or can i resuse them if they are witin their specs?

 

[thuzil]

Strange that it is leaking that much. What gasket did you buy. I always recommend new hardware for this job as it is not worth the $$ to have to redo it again.

 

[jcryderm7]

Fel-pro. Bought a complete gasket kit off of ebay. I didn't realize that there was that much of a quality difference until I started reading these forums.

I do agree. If retorquing the headbolts doesn't solve my problem I will be purchasing another gasket and set of headbolts. Are there any brands other than from the dealer that are good quality. I'm four hours from the nearest dealer.

 

[mazda_sp20]

also using a product called copper cote.

Its a aerosol can that you spray important gaskets such as headgaskets seconds prior to fitting and torqueing the head down.

If you haven't machined your head prior, its a must to help ensure a good seal.

I used this product with my recent engine build with the block being decked and the cylinder head fully reconditioned and machined.

A lot of people argue that you shouldn't need do to this on a metal and/or multishim gasket, but this will stop you doing another headgasket and the pain in the ass labor.

 

[thuzil]

You can not go wrong with cometic gaskets and ARP hardware.

 

[jcryderm7]

great thanks guys. I will let you know how it turns out when I get the parts.

 

[jcryderm7]

What gasket thickness should I get? Does the cylinder head being shaved affect that?

 

[thuzil]

You want the 84 mm bore, contact ********** for the appropriate thickness.