Osram Bulb Life?

clicknext

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2006 Tungsten Grey Mazda6 GT I4
For anyone who has Osram headlight bulbs, how long have you had them in for, and if they've died, how long did it take?

I'm considering ordering a couple of them from powerbulbs, but if their life is not as long as stock bulbs (mine lasted over 4 years) then I'll just get the stocks.
 
I have Osram H4 bulbs, also ordered from Powerbulbs. They've been in my car since June, 2003 and still going strong. They have a much longer life than the Silverstar equivalents. This is because the Osrams are untinted while the Silverstars have a blue tint. Since the tint cuts down on light output, the Silverstars are designed to run a higher current through the filaments, compared with the Osrams, to compensate. This increases the light output but at the expense of filament life. Definitely go with the Osrams in preference to the Silverstars-you won't be disappointed.

For more information about this topic, go to: http://www.danielsternlighting.com
 
goldstar said:
I have Osram H4 bulbs, also ordered from Powerbulbs. They've been in my car since June, 2003 and still going strong. They have a much longer life than the Silverstar equivalents. This is because the Osrams are untinted while the Silverstars have a blue tint. Since the tint cuts down on light output, the Silverstars are designed to run a higher current through the filaments, compared with the Osrams, to compensate. This increases the light output but at the expense of filament life. Definitely go with the Osrams in preference to the Silverstars-you won't be disappointed.

For more information about this topic, go to: http://www.danielsternlighting.com
Thanks! Wow, I imagine having that blue tint would make the bulb absorb more power and heat from the light and make the bulb even hotter too...
 
the Silverstars are designed to run a higher current through the filaments, compared with the Osrams, to compensate

Nonesense, all 55W bulbs will draw the same current at 12V - if they were designed to draw more current, they would have a higher wattage rating.

Some bulbs are less efficient and produce more heat, which seems to be an issue with silverstars in some cases although YMMV
 
Aren't Osram and Sylvania the same company? I'd expect the Osram to have similar output and longevity as the OEM bulbs.
 
What are the Sylvania Xtravision? Are they just Silverstars without tinting as well?
 
falsedawn said:
Nonesense, all 55W bulbs will draw the same current at 12V - if they were designed to draw more current, they would have a higher wattage rating.

Some bulbs are less efficient and produce more heat, which seems to be an issue with silverstars in some cases although YMMV

Don't post false information based on ignorance. Check out the website I posted above for an explanation: http://www.danielsternlighting.com

Relevant to this discussion, here is a quote from the website:
"It's a name gain: Osram, the well-established German lampmaker sells a line of automotive bulbs thy call "Silver Star". These are Osram's top-of-the-range headlamp bulbs, equivalent to Narva RangePow+50, GE Night Hawk, Philips VisionPlus and Tungsram Megalight Premium. They produce the maximum legal amount of light while staying within legal power consumption limits. They have colorless clear glass.

"Osram bought the well-established American lampmaker Sylvania in the early 1990s, so Osram is now Sylvania's parent company. Sylvania also sells a line of automotive bulbs they call "Silver Star", but it's not the same product. The Sylvania Silver Stars have blue glass. Light output is of legal levels, but as with all blue-filtered bulbs, you do not get more light from them. The Sylvania SilverStar bulbs have a very short lifetime, because the filament is overdriven (emphasis mine) to get a legal amount of light despite the blue glass."

If the Sylvania blue-tinted SilverStars produce more heat, it's not from the tint. It's because of the greater current required to force the bulb to emit a legal amount of light. Extra heat can only be caused by extra current, not by a tint.
 
clicknext said:
How long did they last you?

1 yr +-.

amp and other things running off the battery which causes surges of power inthe electrical system and blows our bulbs??????

they are nice though!

-R
 
goldstar said:
Don't post false information based on ignorance. Check out the website I posted above for an explanation: http://www.danielsternlighting.com

Relevant to this discussion, here is a quote from the website:
"It's a name gain: Osram, the well-established German lampmaker sells a line of automotive bulbs thy call "Silver Star". These are Osram's top-of-the-range headlamp bulbs, equivalent to Narva RangePow+50, GE Night Hawk, Philips VisionPlus and Tungsram Megalight Premium. They produce the maximum legal amount of light while staying within legal power consumption limits. They have colorless clear glass.

"Osram bought the well-established American lampmaker Sylvania in the early 1990s, so Osram is now Sylvania's parent company. Sylvania also sells a line of automotive bulbs they call "Silver Star", but it's not the same product. The Sylvania Silver Stars have blue glass. Light output is of legal levels, but as with all blue-filtered bulbs, you do not get more light from them. The Sylvania SilverStar bulbs have a very short lifetime, because the filament is overdriven (emphasis mine) to get a legal amount of light despite the blue glass."

If the Sylvania blue-tinted SilverStars produce more heat, it's not from the tint. It's because of the greater current required to force the bulb to emit a legal amount of light. Extra heat can only be caused by extra current, not by a tint.

What is the silverstar rated at? He is right, if the silverstar has the same wattage rating as stock (and holds true to that rating) then it's not burning out due to extra current because the car can only put the same 12V (or whatever they use) on any given lightbulb.


But anyway, what is it with P5's and burnt lightbulbs? I have seen a very large number of them with just one lightbulb.
 
"Legal power consumption limits" is the operating phrase here. 60/55W is a nominal rating within allowable limits. What is the "true" wattage rating of a bulb that operates at both ~ 12V when the engine is off and the alternator is not turning and then at, for example, ~ 14.4V (or even higher) with engine running? Obviously, filament resistance and its resultant current draw can be adjusted so that wattage rating is nearer the top end of the allowable range resulting in increased light output and shorter filament life.

For example: In the case of a 60W bulb, if that wattage is based on 12V input:, then since I = W/E, (I = 60/12), I = 5A. Therefore, since R = E/I, (R = 12/5), R = 2.4 ohms.

Now consider that same "60W" bulb being driven with 14.4V: Then since I = E/R, (I = 14.4/2.4), I = 6A. But, since W = EI (W = 14.4 x 6), W = 86W.

Now, what is the "true" wattage rating ( and allowable range) of the above bulb?
 
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