New Plugs = Car breaking up during boost?

[Protegebuddy]

Last night I decided that I should throw some new plugs and wires in my car. It has 75k on it. Picked up a set of NGK ZFR7F the stock plug but +1 colder and threw them in, along with the set on new wires. Car started right up and no issues. Went for a test drive and every time I began to hit boost, no matter what gear it was, It would continue to rev but it was breaking up (mis-firing) the whole time.... I thought odd. Didn't through a CEL or anything. Even threw a scanner at it and looked at the fuel trims and O2's... everthing is normal. So I decided to step up to the NGK... what ever number plug for our cars, but Platinum. Now, I can go Full throttle and Boost through 1st gear, but any other gear I am in and hit boost again... it begins breaking up just like it did before with the other plugs..??? The coils are good... All I did was put new plugs and wires in... So, what else can I check to see what my problem is. Doesn't feel like fuel cut I think, cause everyone that has experienced it says it's like hitting a wall, my car i can continually Rev. I do not have any aftermarket gauges. Any input would be much appreciated. Thanks guys!..... I think I got everything.

 

[Preferio]

I've battled this for 30k miles! The plug gap should be .028-.031, not .042

 

[Preferio]

It was driving me insane. I did everything, checked everything, replaced multiple components. It ONLY started doing that after I replace wires, spark plugs, and a few other components and I could never figure it out. AllData says the gap should be .044 or whatever it is for the regular NA FS. I finally got fed up with it and made a thread and others told me what the gap should be, got a new set of plugs for good measure, regapped them to .030 and it's fine.

 

[Protegebuddy]

I've battled this for 30k miles! The plug gap should be .028-.031, not .042

I'll double check that, thanks!

In addition, I am not sure weather or not my PCM has been flashed or not, not sure if that would be a contributing factor to this condition.

 

[Preferio]

I'll double check that, thanks!

In addition, I am not sure weather or not my PCM has been flashed or not, not sure if that would be a contributing factor to this condition.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...nder-boost-no-MIL-multiple-sets-of-plugs-HALP!

 

[Protegebuddy]

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...nder-boost-no-MIL-multiple-sets-of-plugs-HALP!

LoL, Guess I missed your thread you posted a few weeks ago. Good thing I used the forum to it's full advantage and did search for this before posting a new thread. ha ha
I'll re-gap em' and see what happens.

 

[Preferio]

LoL, Guess I missed your thread you posted a few weeks ago. Good thing I used the forum to it's full advantage and did search for this before posting a new thread. ha ha
I'll re-gap em' and see what happens.

I'd be willing to bet that'll take care of it. Man, I tested EVERYTHING. Literally the ONLY thing I didn't do was view the misfire monitor data stream. If I would have done that, it would have saved me all kinds of time and trouble. But at the same time, I was making sure the plugs were gapped like AllData said, so I still don't think I would have just regapped them for the hell of it. I would have probably start replacing injectors or something insane.

 

[gangstagangsta]

. Picked up a set of NGK ZFR7F the stock plug but +1 colder and threw them in

I thought those were the stock plug replacment and that the step colder NGK plugs are NGK ZFR6F.

 

[hornsfan10609]

I would bet money it's because you didn't set the plug gap, they only sell plugs in the N/A gap which is .044".

NGK ZFR6F-11 are the factory plugs, 7 heat range are 1 step colder and the stock heat range for N/A Proteges.

 

[Preferio]

I thought those were the stock plug replacment and that the step colder NGK plugs are NGK ZFR6F.

With NGK plugs, you go up numerically to get a cooler temperature plug, not down- if you did that, you'd get a hotter heat range plug. I used to tell stupid ******* rednecks that all the time when I managed parts stores, but they never wanted to listen.

 

[StealthWyvern]

44 is still way to big even for NA and the ECM has nothing to do with blowign out spark... mine is unflashed and has no issues

 

[Preferio]

44 is still way to big even for NA and the ECM has nothing to do with blowign out spark... mine is unflashed and has no issues

Per Mazda, the gap on the NA FS is .040-.043.. The majority of Japanese 4 cylinder manufacturers recommend a very similar gap (.039-.044)

 

[StealthWyvern]

Per Mazda, the gap on the NA FS is .040-.043.. The majority of Japanese 4 cylinder manufacturers recommend a very similar gap (.039-.044)

my p5 ran a hell of a lot better with a smaller gap then that.

 

[Preferio]

That's recommended by manufacturers for optimum fuel efficiency and to minimize NOx emissions...

 

[gangstagangsta]

With NGK plugs, you go up numerically to get a cooler temperature plug, not down- if you did that, you'd get a hotter heat range plug. I used to tell stupid ******* rednecks that all the time when I managed parts stores, but they never wanted to listen.

Did not mean to let my Redneck show.... But I was just trying to help. Preferio is correct though I went looking through my old invoices and found I did buy the NGK ZFR7F from rock auto.
www.rockauto.com
Part number on Rock auto website is 5913 and you can get them in the NGK ZFR7F and not the NGK ZFR7F-11 which will have the excessive gap on them... If I am not mistaken.

 

[Protegebuddy]

Welp, Plugs are gaped to .028 and she runs great now! Thanks "Preferio" for your input and help!

 

[Preferio]

Did not mean to let my Redneck show....

I wasn't talking about you. I was just talking about the guys who would come in wanting a colder plug and if it would be an NGK, they'd want to go down a number, but when I told them it's the opposite, they wouldn't listen to me.

I'm glad you got it fixed.