Need someone with graph skill to pinpoint P1170

X

xdarkox

Member
:
mazda protege 2000 ES 1.8l
Hi everyone,

I recently got P1170 code, i know all about that code , but my problem doesn't lay in oxygen sensor, I have replaced both of them recently with brand new denso sensors.

I have obd2 software and i was recording my 20 minutes long trip , and i run this thru graph and i see that every once in a while both oxygen sensors have no readings for maybe 20 seconds or so, if this inactivity happen to be longer than 42 seconds , code p1170 (no switching on oxygen sensor) gets triggered, than i clear it and after few hundred miles gets triggered again. I posted picture underneath and you can clearly see that at (in this picture happens twice) some point both sensors cut off completely and short fuel trim gets immediately 0 at that point.i also posted freeze frame data.

I'm really cornered with this problem , can someone share some information please and Thank You.

oxygensensors.jpg
[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

freezeframe.jpg
[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
 
Looks like they're going haywire, how are the connectors? I would guess they're grounding out somewhere, either at the connectors or somewhere going to the ecu, although when the sensors are bad they will do that, I've also seen that happen when the maf sensor is bad

Trace the wire from the sensor to the ecu to make sure it's not the actual wire first
 
+1 to tweety's post.

Your PCM isn't receiving the O2 sensor signal for 20 seconds or so. What would make it so the signal isn't received?
1) The O2 sensor isn't sending it
2) it's being lost in transmission (signal is cut by bad wire or bad harness connection)
3) the PCM stops reading from that pin (very unlikely)

since the PCM software didn't change to make it stop looking for a signal, and you're fairly confident that the sensors aren't bad, it looks like your minions are in your wiring.


If this were my problem, this is how I would proceed:
1)Prop your car up on stands (so you can get under it)
2)turn your car on with your OBD software logging
3)jiggle the wires coming not off of the sensors, and also the wires that the sensor harnesses plug into,which lead to the main harness.
4) look at your log, and check for a signal interrupt.
 
thanks for all the help, im going to follow your advice jdoggsc to see if i can get somewhere if it doesn't work , as far as maf going, i can see on my graph that MAF is not interrupted at any time at all
 
The wiring is s*** on mazdas. Both my 323 and the protege have had the starter wire from the ignition switch ground out
 
not what I wanted to hear

tweety2300 said:
The wiring is s*** on mazdas. Both my 323 and the protege have had the starter wire from the ignition switch ground out
Click to expand...

That's not what I wanted to hear. This is my first Mazda, and I've only had it since May. Just before i bought it, I had to repair a crapton of poor wiring on my brother's Dodge. I know Chrysler Corp. is notorious for shoddy wiring (I think i would consider piercing a testicle before buying a Chrysler Corp. product) but I was hoping Mazdas were good. Well, here's to hoping I got a good one in the batch.
 
After 10+ years of rubbing together it was bound to happen. I haven't seen anyone else on the forum have the issue yet though
 
jdoggsc said:
That's not what I wanted to hear. This is my first Mazda, and I've only had it since May. Just before i bought it, I had to repair a crapton of poor wiring on my brother's Dodge. I know Chrysler Corp. is notorious for shoddy wiring (I think i would consider piercing a testicle before buying a Chrysler Corp. product) but I was hoping Mazdas were good. Well, here's to hoping I got a good one in the batch.
Click to expand...

Well, my 1989 MX6 GT's wiring is just fine and it's 23+ years old!
 
concept said:
Well, my 1989 MX6 GT's wiring is just fine and it's 23+ years old!
Click to expand...

Depends on the area, temps in va reach up to 105 and down to -15 on a normal year. After awhile the rubber on wires cracks and corrodes or grounds out
 
Yes, and Las Vegas temps can get way up there as well. Shorting in wires certainly can noticed when checking voltage. Many years ago, I had a 73 Mazda RX3 whose starter received 9 volts from the ignition switch. Rather than track down the are of the wire that was shorting, I installed a relay that required only 6 volts to transfer full battery voltage and required current to the starter. That setup never failed me.
 
On the protege I just did a push button set up, mostly cause my inner ricer has always wanted one, on the 323 I just ran a new wire from the ignition switch to the starter.

The problem with checking the voltage on an o2 sensor is they run around .4-.9 volts and the graph shows that but it randomly goes to 0. The only way this can happen is it loses power randomly, grounds out randomly, or the ecu just doesn't read it randomly. All those lead to it being a wiring issue.

Being an o2 sensor i would replace the entire wire and even have it re pinned in the connector due to their tiny voltage and sensitivity.

It's not the high temps it's the drastic change in temps quickly that lead to it. It was in the 80s last week and right now it's around 38 and the high for tomarow is 46. Over time no material can hold up to that especially cheap dried out rubber. And the rubber lining is pretty thin on wires that small, it only takes one small crack and from there it will spread pretty fast
 
all the wires are packed in black plastic tubing thing, and there is no way really to tell if they are bad ,unless to tear them apart.I looked around who sells that , only site I found was Jim Ellis mazda store for 250 bucks , but there is still other things i want to try before that investment.

here is the link

http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/p...otege/HARNESS--ENGINE/1830829/BJ0T67070A.html

One more thing , is the ECU located by passenger seat under carpet or where ?
 
Or an easier way to test for an open or short find the ecu pinout and check the connector from the sensor itself to the connector on the ecu harness. Also, take both sides of the connector (harness side) and check both of them to ground. If I can ill post up a trouble tree straight from Mazda tomorrow it wont let me login on my phone so ill do it at work tomorrow.
 
If u can, pm me the Vin number so I can pull up the EXACT tree for your car
If I search just by year make a model ill find it with every different option Mazda offered. =\
 
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