Money to burn...

2K3 MSP

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Spicy Orange MSP #1287
I am finally selling my Civic today, and after I pay my bills, I'm gonna have about $1,000 left over. All for the MSP:). Now I just need to know what to do with it. If you look at my sig, I don't have much done, and nothing performance-wise yet(except my ghetto CAI). Can you guys give me your opinions of what you would do if you were in my situation?? Any combination of these things equaling about $1,000:
1)JIC titanium cat-back
2)FMIC/hard pipe kit
3)boost gauge & boost controller
4)By-pass valve(BOV if i can with FMIC)
5)Carbon Fiber hood

My stock speakers are fine, I already upgraded the deck...I'm looking more at the high-dollar things right now. The small stuff I can do piece by piece. What else would be on your guys list??
 
Stealth5 said:
i think you should do waht you gotta do for 1bar boost
Sell my MSP and buy an STI?? Naww....10psi should be cool. I average about 100 miles a day on this thing, so I don't want to put too much stress on it.
 
wait and watch what SPool comes out with for the MSP, cause he has a bunch of awesome stuff coming out for it....
 
nocar said:
JIC exhaust :D :D

if you like 2.4 inch piping and also that wont make that big of a difference without a downpipe and highflow or no cats. Go for the Boost controller ($80-$500), boost gauge ($50-$200), and BOV ($100-$220) hardware for BOV if needed ($20-$50) and you r set!
 
Dam, I swear- nobody reads my posts :).. It all depends on what your goals are- if you want a road racer, the FMIC will prevent heat soak during long races. If you care about just having a quick street car for the light to light Mustang/Neon/WRX crowd, then read my post about my track times. I don't know if anyone else has gone 100 mph in the 1/4 mile with an MSP yet, if they have- I know it wasn't for under $650 :). These cars can be potent street cars with well placed mods. The more you just throw big $$$ at it without tuning the small stuff, the more $$$ you will have into a car that is slower than the other guys. I have seen it a million times before.
Joe
 
If I get the JIC, then I can get the DP in a few weeks. Since I won't have the extra bills to pay, I'll have extra mney to save...If I get the FMIC, can i get an actual BOV, or do i still have to recirculate? Sorry, i forgot:)
 
I-Am-Chris said:


if you like 2.4 inch piping and also that wont make that big of a difference without a downpipe and highflow or no cats. Go for the Boost controller ($80-$500), boost gauge ($50-$200), and BOV ($100-$220) hardware for BOV if needed ($20-$50) and you r set!
No offense, but why the hell is everyone recommending a BOV? the stock one will hold more than most of us will be putting at it..
Joe
 
oh hey about your kit will it lean it out to much with me after i boosted up or have you run it on a wideband boosted up? I thinkin bout getting one
 
I-Am-Chris said:
oh hey about your kit will it lean it out to much with me after i boosted up or have you run it on a wideband boosted up? I thinkin bout getting one

It will lean it out enough to make more power, but it is still safely rich with room to go. the FP will still increase with boost, just not as high as it would per psi without the kit. I still run upper .800's for 02 voltages, so it is very safely rich still :).
Joe
 
I-Am-Chris said:


Neg on that one well at least mine!
How did you determine that? If you say boost drop off, mine did too- even with the BOV capped :)... It is the turbo and wastegate, not the BOV.. Heck, I even pressure tested the intake hoses with about 15 psi and there was no leak :).
Joe
 
What would be the best type of boost gauge? Are the auto meter ones poor quality? I really like the GReddy warning series, but $200+ for the boost gauge!!(backlit orange:))
 
the autometer seems good enough to me, although it is backlit with a standard halogen yellowish light
 
El cheapo

I got Joe's MBC for 30$ group buy and I got an AUTOMETER 2310 boost gauge with an Autometer single pod A-pillar mount for 59.00$ shipped to my door!
I would get a full exhaust and downpipe to go with the above items lets see?
800.00$ for a complete exhaust and 89.00 for the boost controller, gauge, and pod comes to a total of 889.00$
:D
 
kwiktsi said:

How did you determine that? If you say boost drop off, mine did too- even with the BOV capped :)... It is the turbo and wastegate, not the BOV.. Heck, I even pressure tested the intake hoses with about 15 psi and there was no leak :).
Joe

well s*** mine sometimes goes back down to .47 bar from .74-.76
 
I-Am-Chris said:


well s*** mine sometimes goes back down to .47 bar from .74-.76


Mine drops too, but it drops even with the BOV blocked off :(.. I am going to test it again, but even tonight I was making an attempt at 18 psi (gotta love race fuel :) ) and it would still drop to 13 as the load decreased. I think part of it is also the weak springed wastegate actuator being pushed open by the exhaust flow at high RPM's. A stronger spring or tightening the adjustable rod a few turns should help, but there goes you 5 psi stock :). It is usually about 1 psi per turn on the rod.
Joe
 
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