Installation of System has begun...

Yeah, but getting it into that location was a b****!. Not much room to manuever under there.
 
I relocated mine as well but I just put it higher up and back by the fire wall.

Whats going in its location?
 
Custom fiberglass kicks that will house a 4" and Tweet from a Focal Set. The 6.5" is going in the door
 
Heres mine

left%20kick.jpg


right%20kick.jpg



I haven't finished them yet becuase i am undecided as to how to procede. I have a few other sets i think I might try. I was toying with using 2 sets of JL 3 ways. Putting each 4" with one tweeter in the kicks, one tweet up high as abiant and the 4 6 1/2s in the doors. Also I might use alpine flag ships. The Qs are great though so I may just sand some more then vynal them.

I like focal but I found that they really don't do so well with Slipknot. Unfortunityl I like SQ but really friggen loudand heavy too. The quarts alone were not very good so I put a set of JL XR 6 1/2s in the doors. THey did fine but they canceled out with the 6 1/2 quarts alot so the EQ was alot of compromising. I said F the JLs and doubled the power to the quarts and HOLY s***! They are very impressive now.

Good luck with the focals.
 
Those are nice, but I want to be able to use the dead pedal somewhat on the drivers side. I think with the 4" and tweet instead of the 6.5" and tweet I should be able to save a little room. I am going to be powering my Focals with 160W each set.
 
easy of wiring and neatness.Its also handy if you need to do indepentand amp troubleshooting
 
NYCZMP3 said:
what is the benefit to having that distibution bloclk?..

I am confused by your question. How else would I distrubute the power/GND between the 3 amps?
 
Rider69 said:


I am confused by your question. How else would I distrubute the power/GND between the 3 amps?

Posts and ring terminal like me.
 
what median are those kick panels? they look like wood but they have to be fiberglass right? Care to goby real quick on how you made them? Like the wooden structure you made before fiberglassing it?
 
Lay fiberglass on the area to be the base.

Make rings for tweeter and mid. I used back stapping to keep the tweeter detachet so I could bend and swivle it independant of the mid. once it was were I liked the sound I wrapped from the front ot the back with thick blue fleece. Soaked the fleece with resin and added a layer or 2 or fiberglass. Then bondoed the surface and sanded it smooth.

They are still ruff as I said before since they may not be sticking around. If I keep them they will be bondoed and hand sanded alot more and the wrapped with vynal and painted dark gray to match the cars plastic panels. Then I'll make the grills for the mids to mathc the star grill of the tweeter.
 
Update:

Unfortuanately have not had much time to work on this week except for today. I was able to get the 1/0 power wire and the remote Turn-on lead run, get the fuse holder installed, Install the sub box, Put down some Rubberized Undercoating and start on the sub floor.

You can check out pics at:
http://protegenetwork.org/rider69/stereo/install.htm
 
Why did you run the power wire all the way to the front of the car?
 
1st MP3 in NH said:
Why did you run the power wire all the way to the front of the car?

I was wondering the same exact thing. Not only is it a longer wire run,but that fuse is not within a safe distance of the battery. You should have the fuse NO farther than 18 inches away from the battery. I personally like to keep it 6-10 inches away. Just remember, the fused under the hood is to protect the power wire and the vehicle in case of a short. The protection for the amp comes in the form of a fused distribution block and/or the fuse on the amp itself. Just my .02

peace
Griff
 
Power wire issue: Ok, if you take a close look, only half of the fuse is hooked up right now. The side that goes to the Battery (in the front of the car) is not hooked up yet! I only ran the side from the fuse to where the amps will be (in the back of the car). I am waiting until I get the car put back together to finish up wiring the fuse. When all is said and done, the fuse will be within about 18in" from the battery. Sorry for the confusion. The reason for the mounting location that I chose was that there is not that many other good locations for mounting that large a fuse holder. Besides, it will look good there when all finished.
 
Rider69 said:
Power wire issue: Ok, if you take a close look, only half of the fuse is hooked up right now. The side that goes to the Battery (in the front of the car) is not hooked up yet! I only ran the side from the fuse to where the amps will be (in the back of the car). I am waiting until I get the car put back together to finish up wiring the fuse. When all is said and done, the fuse will be within about 18in" from the battery. Sorry for the confusion. The reason for the mounting location that I chose was that there is not that many other good locations for mounting that large a fuse holder. Besides, it will look good there when all finished.

How are you gonna manage to get fuse that close to the battery? Are you gonna relocate the battery closer to the front of the car? Yea, the look is cool. Back in the day, there was a Beretta on the IASCA circuit that had a motorized front grill with fuse holders behind it. It was pretty trick. Anyway, just so you know, I was not picking on your install, just trying to make sure your car is safe!! :D

peace
Griff
 
After careful consideration and thoughtful comments I have gone out and remeasured the distance to the fuse and it does in fact exceed 18", it is about 20-22", and I am going to relocate the fuse holder to a more adequate location. It looks like the back side of the battery box (plastic cover) should have enough room available to mount it. Perhaps I will build a new type of box when I get the Optima. ( I am going to go with the Red Top, not the Yellow top in the System diagram).

Thanks for your help and stay tuned.
 
Better yet Tsunami makes a dual fuesd battery top for te optimas. I have it, it rules! This way the fuses are at the battery. I have one going to the alternator and the other to the system each 1/0 direct connections, no battery terminals needed.
 
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