H7 Low Beam LED replacement

... I too get the feeling things are moving towards COB LEDs..... (excessive heat seems to be a concern)?

This is what we've noticed when experimenting with them at work. That strip I posted on the previous page had a backside surface temp of nearly 240F within 30 seconds of it being on. Testing under worse case conditions without a heat sink or ventillation, at about 3 minutes it got hot enough to melt the solder off one of the leads. We had to use a rather large, passive, radiant heat sink to make it survive the desired lifespan and then that heat had to be dealt with. If you have the space and equipment to get rid of the heat they are awesome. I'm thinking about trying some out for exterior flood lighting at home.

I can't ever see a drop in LED headlamp with enough power working very well. Focus will out of whack and the required heat sink on the rear of the bulb has to have room under the hood also. I think the OEM's are going the right direction. Using multiple, smaller elements to help control heat and get the desired beam pattern. Spreading out the light source does a nice job of cutting down on glare and dazzle to oncoming vehicles also.
 
I have to disagree with you guys in regards to the temp gauge. I have read numerous articles of the Mazdaspeed 3 been criticized due the lack of the temp gauge. Yes, it is cool what Mazda is doing with monitoring the temperature gauge, but at the same time it looks silly. Mazda claims that there are more Mazda's been race every single weekend than any other brand!! Guess what, there no race car with a temp gauge, period. Now, I agree that in a regular street car, the temp gauge is more about aesthetic than usage. because you are not going to care if the car is running at 210 or 230, etc. What they should do, put a gauge back in the car with different levels of warning lights, indicating if the car cold, ready to drive or too hot. something similar to NASCAR. Imaging a Miata with only too gauges!! or your Mazda only the speedometer!! why you will need the tachometer if the engine is going to shut-off if the RPM's are to high? just think about it. if you are a car guy, you will like to monitor what your car is doing.
 
This is what we've noticed when experimenting with them at work. That strip I posted on the previous page had a backside surface temp of nearly 240F within 30 seconds of it being on. Testing under worse case conditions without a heat sink or ventillation, at about 3 minutes it got hot enough to melt the solder off one of the leads. We had to use a rather large, passive, radiant heat sink to make it survive the desired lifespan and then that heat had to be dealt with. If you have the space and equipment to get rid of the heat they are awesome. I'm thinking about trying some out for exterior flood lighting at home.

I can't ever see a drop in LED headlamp with enough power working very well. Focus will out of whack and the required heat sink on the rear of the bulb has to have room under the hood also. I think the OEM's are going the right direction. Using multiple, smaller elements to help control heat and get the desired beam pattern. Spreading out the light source does a nice job of cutting down on glare and dazzle to oncoming vehicles also.

Just trade that Mazda5 for an Audi R8 - they have LED headlights :-) They also have fans to cool the diodes. I guess your headlight fails if the fan fails and you stop.
 
This is what we've noticed when experimenting with them at work. That strip I posted on the previous page had a backside surface temp of nearly 240F within 30 seconds of it being on. Testing under worse case conditions without a heat sink or ventillation, at about 3 minutes it got hot enough to melt the solder off one of the leads. We had to use a rather large, passive, radiant heat sink to make it survive the desired lifespan and then that heat had to be dealt with. If you have the space and equipment to get rid of the heat they are awesome. I'm thinking about trying some out for exterior flood lighting at home.

I can't ever see a drop in LED headlamp with enough power working very well. Focus will out of whack and the required heat sink on the rear of the bulb has to have room under the hood also. I think the OEM's are going the right direction. Using multiple, smaller elements to help control heat and get the desired beam pattern. Spreading out the light source does a nice job of cutting down on glare and dazzle to oncoming vehicles also.

I am confuse, why you need a heat sink or fins to dissipate the heat of a LED? the LED don't get hot as a regular lamp, correct? This is why some of headlight lamps conversion that I have seen come fins? Can you tell me why?
 
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