FMIC 101 - Looking for answers

im2bad4ya

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MAZDASPEED Protege 2K3.5 #882
I'm outta school now which means I have the time to get going on upgrades to my car. I have a Spearco FMIC waiting to be installed. I mocked it up to see if I could figure out how the piping is routed and I pretty much think I figured it out:
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Here's the back end, to show how the bottom pipe makes a U bend back towards the turbo:
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By the looks of it, it seems like I'm missing the pipe that goes out the turbo itself to connect to the piping.


Also, I wasn't sure how to place the last pipe, whether it goes vertical:
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Or horizontal:
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If I had to guess, I'd say horizontal for the fact that all the other connections use the red sleeve


This pipe measures 2" which I believe is the same as the opening for the turbo (right?) So I'd just have to buy a 2" U shaped pipe and make it work???



And one more question. The one hose now goes from the CAI to the Bypass valve, I'd just need to reroute it to the BOV on the pipes and I'm good to go right? Or do I also need to run that vacuum hose to the BOV?
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Yeah, I've never had a turbo car and really didn't anticipate getting one. But I'll learn as I go along. (Even until last week I learned the benefits of a turbo timer, now I wait a minute after parking before shutting the car off (toetap)
 
your FMIC appears to require that the turbo be clocked so the outlet points down instead of up.

Unless you're beating on the car before parking it, don't bother idling it, the turbo is water cooled and ball bearing so it isn't what I'd call necessary.

Keep in mid that if you don't recirculate your blowoff, you're going to want to put the MAF between the BOV and the throttle body to keep it from stalling.
 
So is clocking the turbo easy? Just saw a youtube video on how to do it, [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amSFViIAWew] just loosen the bolts holding it together and turn the direction of the turbo downwards, but leaving the oil return in the same orientation, is it that easy on our turbos?

Also, not sure what you mean by recirculating the BOV, though I did look up some pics of other Type S BOVs, so I guess I'll have to run the vacuum line that went from the bypass valve to the BOV. Some pictures had the bigger opening with nothing and others with a hose in it. Is that bigger hose currently on the bypass, and is this what you mean by recirculating?
 
So is clocking the turbo easy? Just saw a youtube video on how to do it, [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amSFViIAWew] just loosen the bolts holding it together and turn the direction of the turbo downwards, but leaving the oil return in the same orientation, is it that easy on our turbos?

Also, not sure what you mean by recirculating the BOV, though I did look up some pics of other Type S BOVs, so I guess I'll have to run the vacuum line that went from the bypass valve to the BOV. Some pictures had the bigger opening with nothing and others with a hose in it. Is that bigger hose currently on the bypass, and is this what you mean by recirculating?

circulating it back into the non-pressure side of the intake tract, between the MAF and the turbo. Any air that goes through the MAF needs to go through the engine, otherwise your computer adds fuel for air that never made it into the combustion chamber.

As for how to clock... no idea, I built my FMIC kit around not clocking. (see link in sig for LOTS of FMIC info)
 
okay, lookin up some info on clocking the turbo, it's possible but I'd have to drill new holes into the turbo housing for the wastegate bracket, definitely NOT gonna do that! other option would be get an external wastegate, but I wanna keep costs to a minimum. Couldn't I just get that U shaped pipe, route it from the turbo and possibly use that same pipe I have but just route it vertically? (just switch the black and red sleeves).
 
you could extend the piping, but you would need a longer elbow, and a J pipe. As for just reversing your pipe, no, not even close. At this point I would seriously consider changing your whole hot side routing if you are unwilling to clock the turbo, the more piping you add, the less efficient your system is, and you already have a lot. In order to just add to what you have, you'd be adding probably another 3'

Go look under the hood, and try to picture where all this piping is going before you ask any more questions, you'll be able to answer a lot for yourself.
 
Fair enough, I have to ask questions though, it's the only way I'm gonna learn right? I'm just trying to figure out why I couldn't make that pipe horizontal and get that U pipe, it wouldn't be in the way of the CAI or radiator hose or am I wrong? and of course, I put mocked the FMIC in front of the car and tried to visualize it IN the bay. I'm all new to this. Like my title says, just looking for answers.
 
I'd cut the passenger side of the intercooler at the second weld from the core and run it around the passenger side of the radiator instead of same side.
 
You have the set up upside down. The hot pipe routes over the core and both the hot and cold pipe should feed through the hole where your smic was. I had a similar fmic kit on my car before I went with a hi-boost kit.
 
You have the set up upside down. The hot pipe routes over the core and both the hot and cold pipe should feed through the hole where your smic was. I had a similar fmic kit on my car before I went with a hi-boost kit.

Can't be. the mounting plate is on the bottom behind the front, you can't see it in the pic. If it flipped it over, the mounting plate would end up on top facing outward, unless there's a different way to mount it? If it flipped it side to side, the pipes would go into the passenger side, not the driver side (SMIC side)
 
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