CEL and BEGI/FM turbo??

[70]

Ok, well, I got my first CEL this morning while driving home and I am wondering what it might be.

This morning it started snowing and there was a pretty cold breeze. So, I let the car warm up and I start driving along, get about half way home when the light comes on.

So, just guessing, what could it be? I would figure if it was an O2 sensor that would have gone shortly after the install. I think it might be the intake air temp sensor, since the BEGI/FM kit moves it down to basically read ambient air temp, would a wamr engine bay getting blasted with super cold air jack up the temp sensor?? Particularly whne the motor is warm and the water temp is constant?

Just guessing, I have no idea. I plan on going to the Checker tomorrow and have them check it to see what happened.

Any guesses?

 

[1sty]

I had one once for about 20 seconds then it went off and never came back. Kind of weird. I doubt its cold air since thats what our engines get stock. Probably air fule mix out of range.

 

[70]

How could that have happened?

Would the dramatic change in air temp cause that to change?

The engine stock though reads the temp from inside the intake tract, which would mean that the air temp would be a relative constant, but on the mount where it sit now, it can get blasted by cold air form outside. That's why I thought that.

 

[1sty]

I can understand that. I have mine in the wheel well so it always gets cold air staying more constant anyways, but I havent heard of the issue from anyone else yet.

 

[70]

I get to stay over this morning so I won't be able to get it scanned today. I guess I'll wait til tomorro. There are no driveability problems that I have noticed...

 

[smp3000]

I'm guessing it might be something with the intake. Maybe a leak after the filter. Check all hoses and connections.

 

[70]

I did, everything looks tight, same with fuel lines...

 

[1sty]

Is it still on?

 

[70]

Yes, went and moved my car earlier this morning to an all day parking spot and it was still on.

I'll get it checked tomorrow, or just remove the negative battery cable and let it reset, then see if I throw it again...

 

[1sty]

From my experience its 3 key cycles to clear the computer.

 

[70]

From my experience its 3 key cycles to clear the computer.

By key cycle, you mean turn on and turn off three times??

 

[1sty]

Yes. the forth time it should be cleared. I don't know if there is a time increment involved or not. Try starting it for a minute then turn it off and try again in 5 minutes. Or just wait till you've driven it 4 times since the light came on.

 

[70]

YAY!! I got the car scanned tonight...

Basically I have a P0134, or a O2 sensor that is not being read, or in other words, user installed the device and the wires might not be connected right.

So, I get to take out the ECU again and see if one of my wires pulled out. I hope not, but that is the most likely thing. I don't think I burned out an O2 sensor already.

I'm retarded I guess. Oh yeah, the key thing no worky. I did it about eighty times today and the damn light never went off.

 

[1sty]

Th ekey cycle works if its not a constant problem like if you pull the plug on the MAf and turn on the car. The CEL will be on for 3 cycles after you plug back in the MAF plug. However if the MAF stays unplugged the CEl will always remain on.

 

[AustinJohn]

StuttersC--I don't know what all a "P0134" can indicate but I got a CEL on my BEGI '00 1.8 today and I assumed it might be because I ran it real low on gas (one of the CEL "causes" in the manual).

After refilling, I disconnected the negative battery cable for 30 seconds to erase the ECU memory and turn off the CEL and the CEL didn't come back on after reconnecting and restarting so the low gas was apparently my problem. Good luck with your prob.

 

[70]

Mine seems to be all fixed. I removed the ECU the other day, and checked all the wiring involved in installing the "device." Re-crimped and taped everything slightly better/tighter, and all seems to be well.

The number I gave was the error code, which refers to the first 02 sensor, no signal was being read. I'm not sure if the cold weather brought it on (why would ti do that?) or if the wires were slightly loose.

No matter, just wait and see if it all works out.

 

[WShade]

StuttersC--I don't know what all a "P0134" can indicate but I got a CEL on my BEGI '00 1.8 today and I assumed it might be because I ran it real low on gas (one of the CEL "causes" in the manual).

After refilling, I disconnected the negative battery cable for 30 seconds to erase the ECU memory and turn off the CEL and the CEL didn't come back on after reconnecting and restarting so the low gas was apparently my problem. Good luck with your prob.

I saw your car at BEGI last week. You have sheet metal under the hood right? Everything ok?

 

[AustinJohn]

Yes, everything is okay. I had an elusive oil and water leak (one of each) but Corky found both and fixed them. The main reason the car was in was something that bugs me but I don't see discussed in the forum and that's turbo heat management.

What you described as "sheet metal" is actually a 2 foot square piece of hobbyist sheet aluminum with Thermo-Tec Adhesive Backed Heat Barrier between it and the underhood sound/heat insulation.

Corky says he estimates a turbo installation adds about 30F to the ambient temp under the hood. That isn't a problem now that we have cooler temps here in Texas but while we still had warmer days, I mounted the sensor for a dash mounted digital thermometer under the hood and found temps rising 30F or more at stoplights and somewhere above 160F (the high range of my thermometer) at engine shut down.

So I added the aluminum sheet, added a switch under the dash to manually turn on the radiator fan (with a ten minute timer) which I can use either when stopped in traffic or at shut down and had the manifold and downpipe ceramic coated. I'm still not fully satisfied and may look into louvers or some other type of vent as typical summer temps here in Austin or down the road in San Antonio where you live can be 95-105F.

If you've seen a Masdaspeed you may have noticed its turbo location is different. The Mazdaspeed turbo is set quite low (almost at the base of the radiator). Perhaps that allows a lot of its heat to readiate down instead of up and makes its under hood temps cooler than the BEGI or other kits installed nearer the top of the radiator.

What's yout take on heat in your P5? Did you ceramic coat any of your parts or take any other steps to deal with the heat?

Other than the heat concern, my car is a dream. The Protege already handled well and with the turbo it has the zip to match the handling.

Thanks for the inquiry.

 

[WShade]

What's yout take on heat in your P5? Did you ceramic coat any of your parts or take any other steps to deal with the heat?

Early on I had all of the hot parts ceramic coated due to the extreme heat and added some additional shielding around the turbo and downpipe. Prior to the ceramic coating the heat was melting my radiator shroud and one electrical plug. No problems now, one entire summer down. The coating is a necessity for anyone who sees 95+ degree weather. By the way, nice car

http://hpcoatings.com/ (Who did you use? Jeff told me you got a really good deal.)

 

[AustinJohn]

I used Automotive Coating Specialist in Tulsa. They're the folks on the Bell Engineering "Mazda Protege Turbo Kit" website. They seem to have done a fine job.

I agree that coating is a "must" in hot weather areas and wonder - although I've never heard - whether the other folks in parts of the country with weather like our's (like LinuxRacr in Arlington and smp3000 in Arizona) have had the same experience.

And thanks for the nice words on the car.