A new engine that doesn't want to stay on

[im2bad4ya]

Okay, so here's the deal. I just did a fresh motor swap (again this month). The car turns on without hesitation. But it doesn't hold vacuum as it fluctuates between 10psi-5psi before shutting off. Idle speed also fluctuates between 1K-1.5K, but the car doesn't even stay on long enough to warm up and idle at the regular 750-800 range. I checked all the vacuum lines and they all seem to be fine, no leaks. I also have no codes. Everything is fresh on the car, including coil packs and wires and spark plugs. I did a compression test on the engine and all cylinders are a healthy 180 psi. I don't know what else to check for, can anyone point me in the right direction??(help)

 

[tweety2300]

You can't take the readings of the vaccume gauge when the idle is high and fluctuating. Check the timing to make sure it's right. Sounds like its off a tooth

 

[im2bad4ya]

i've checked and rechecked the timing and it looks dead on, but that was before i turned the engine on, i may have to give it another look if thats the case

 

[tweety2300]

Have you tried giving it gas once it starts up?

 

[im2bad4ya]

yeah, I give it gas, it revs like normal, but once I let go, i just goes back to being eratic

 

[tweety2300]

Clean iac and egr valves

 

[89JDM]

Did you ever check you brake booster and trace all your Vac lines...

 

[StealthWyvern]

If you can smoke test it or boost leak test it... But honestly it sounds like a bad IAC, could be a diconnection vac line or just not plugged in.

 

[im2bad4ya]

Did you ever check you brake booster and trace all your Vac lines...

I checked the brake boost and traced all lines, everything seems to be in order, the only modification to the lines I made was I spliced into the brake booster to add a vacuum block but this seems to be fine as well, and it was fine before my 2nd engine went.

If you can smoke test it or boost leak test it... But honestly it sounds like a bad IAC, could be a diconnection vac line or just not plugged in.

I carried over the intake manifold from my original engine (the one the car came with, into the 1st replacement and now into this one), and I actually cleaned the EGR about a month ago when it was on my original engine, so that should still be clean and good to go, but I'll give the IAC a look and cleaning. But the way it's acting, it's as if it's more than one vac line, or like the brake boost plus a few other lines, I'll try to post video later on

 

[im2bad4ya]

and this is what the timing looked like after putting on a new belt:

 

[im2bad4ya]

VIDEO LINK:

 

[tweety2300]

Well you're runing VERY lean for it to be first starting up. Even though it's not throwing a code how is your maf sensor?

 

[im2bad4ya]

MAF sensor should be good to go, could I clean both the MAF sensor and IAC with brakeleen?

 

[StealthWyvern]

I can't see the video but are you sure you dont have a leak between the MAF and the engine? That can cause a lean issue is idle.

 

[im2bad4ya]

yup, I've tighten the sleeves from the MAF and CAI to the turbo, trust me, between me and two other mechanics, I've done the obvious things, ie check vac lines, tighten all nuts and bolts, etc. But I'll give it another check

 

[tweety2300]

Do not clean the maf with brake clean. Is the maf on the cold pipe?

 

[im2bad4ya]

I have plastic pipes, and it's on the CAI side, just inspected the pipes and they aren't cracked or broken.

 

[tweety2300]

Move it to the cold side

 

[im2bad4ya]

I can't, I have stock plastic pipes, but that shouldn't affect the way it's running the way it is, not at least in this weather.

 

[tweety2300]

Do you have the stock bpv or a bov?