XelderX's BG FSP Build
- Thread starter xelderx
- Start date
- :
- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
It's not that I'm slow...I just can't get to anything!
Jeebus, time for a yard sale, you could probably raise some cash for the3 build
It will be far more organized as soon as I can get the motor in the car. Half of the stuff laying around is just waiting to get installed after the motor goes in. I need to run by the salvage yard and get that engine harness fast.
from scratch lol
None of it will fit without some modification, but it isn't complicated. just slotting the upper holes in the strut tower and relocating the bottom mounting hole on the strut.
The only progress I was able to make today was to patch the holes the previous owner cut in the radiator support for his IC. I got those fixed and removed the control arms. Hopefully Monday and Tuesday will show some real progress since I'll finally have a full two days off work.
Hey Kevin, the alternator swap isn't as easy as we thought. I played around with it a little today. Mounting the alternator is pretty simple. The top mounting hole where it pinches down on the adjuster needs to be drilled out on the BG alternator. It's threaded on the BG and just a hole for the bolt to pass through on the BJ. That's not a problem a drill won't fix. The more important issue is the pulley. The shafts are the same diameter on both, but the spacing is different. The BJ pully has a collar machined on it that makes it much thicker. Just sliding it on the BG shaft leaves no threads for the nut to hold it on and it doesn't line the belt up properly. I'll need to machine that collar down so that the belt surface of the pulley sits closer to the alternator. For me it isn't a big deal since I have access to a lathe.
Good lord, your garage looks like my basement.
Anyway, if you want to skip the machining work, see if you can get pics from a 99+ Miata alternator pully. The later Miata's used a serpentine belt as opposed to the v-belt. That might save you a bit of headache.
Another alternative would be to swap the water pump pully and crank pully. That might be easier as there are OE Mazda alternatives. I know the crank pully is open in SP...not sure about the WP pully though.
I solved the alternator problem today with a few minutes on the lathe. My grandfather said he saw a log splitter the other day with a diesel motor on it. The alternator was super small...like the size of a starter. He thinks I might be able to find a super small alternator off of a tractor to use. I'm curious how many amps they put out considering the minimal needs of the things they are attached to. I looked online and they seem very expensive.
Maybe??? http://cgi.ebay.com/John-Deere-alte...ryZ82240QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Just need a regulator to go with it.
Maybe??? http://cgi.ebay.com/John-Deere-alte...ryZ82240QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Just need a regulator to go with it.
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I tried to overcome a big hurdle today and unfortunately it has become an even bigger setback. I tried to get the FS motor bolted in the car today and we discovered several major fitment issues using the Kia mounts that I thought were correct. The motor appears to set at least an inch too far toward the passenger side and at least an inch too far toward the firewall. The throttle linkage was hitting the brake lines beside the booster quite badly. This is the rule that I am working around:
J. Engine mounts may be replaced, but must attach in the factory
location(s) without additional modification or changes. Engine
position may not be changed. The amount of metal in a replacement
mount may not be increased relative to the amount of metal
found in a standard mount for the particular application. Solid
metal mounts are specifically prohibited. Any non-metallic inserts
may be used.
The bolded section is my emphasis. This is a big gray area and in my opinion open to some interpretation. The first sentence seems to indicate that you can fabricate your own mounts as long they bolt to the correct stock points on the chassis and motor/trans. The "without additional modifications or changes" is confusing. Is it referring to the mount or the place where the mount is bolted? The second sentence is really gray area when relating to the Protege. The 1st Gen BP and the 3rd Gen engines sit in their respective chassis at completely different angles. The BP in the BG chassis actually leans forward quite a bit, while the FS motor in the BJ chassis sits straight up and down. Since all the Proteges are listed the same in SP I have no one angle to align the motor.
J. Engine mounts may be replaced, but must attach in the factory
location(s) without additional modification or changes. Engine
position may not be changed. The amount of metal in a replacement
mount may not be increased relative to the amount of metal
found in a standard mount for the particular application. Solid
metal mounts are specifically prohibited. Any non-metallic inserts
may be used.
The bolded section is my emphasis. This is a big gray area and in my opinion open to some interpretation. The first sentence seems to indicate that you can fabricate your own mounts as long they bolt to the correct stock points on the chassis and motor/trans. The "without additional modifications or changes" is confusing. Is it referring to the mount or the place where the mount is bolted? The second sentence is really gray area when relating to the Protege. The 1st Gen BP and the 3rd Gen engines sit in their respective chassis at completely different angles. The BP in the BG chassis actually leans forward quite a bit, while the FS motor in the BJ chassis sits straight up and down. Since all the Proteges are listed the same in SP I have no one angle to align the motor.
ouch, that stinks. I've always read that to mean that you're allowed to fab your own mounts assuming that they don't use more metal than stock, but you're not allowed to modify the chassis to accept mounts from other engines / chassis / etc.
That's what I read as well, but that could just be wishful thinking on my part.
Is it time for a letter on clarification?
I read it as stock location to install the motor mounts, and you can't drill a new hole, add a bracket, etc. And if you are to make custom motor mounts I suppose you would just have to weigh the stock one (without the rubber) and make your new ones to be the same/less weight.
If you go that route I would carry around the stock mount and maybe make an extra custom mount to prove the weight as being equal/less. And a scale....and some KY....
I read it as stock location to install the motor mounts, and you can't drill a new hole, add a bracket, etc. And if you are to make custom motor mounts I suppose you would just have to weigh the stock one (without the rubber) and make your new ones to be the same/less weight.
If you go that route I would carry around the stock mount and maybe make an extra custom mount to prove the weight as being equal/less. And a scale....and some KY....
I think we are on the same page Wayne. I was just going to see how much the stock mount weighs and fabricate a new mount to be the same. A letter of clarification may be necessary here, but we'll see how it works out. I'm going to try and drop the motor in again next week. I'll just cram it in there and line up the output shafts on the tranny to the right spot and see how far off the mounts are. I was going to do that today, but I'm still feeling weak from this flu I had.
Step 1 of mounting the engine in the car is complete. I've got the engine positioned correctly in the car. Now I just need to modify the mounts to bolt up. The rear mount is raised about a 1/2". I'll need to slot the holes in the front mount support a little for it to line up correctly. The driver's side mount is very close, but I'll need to adjust it with a few washers and a small sleeve. I've got an idea for the passenger side mount using part of one of the mounts I got out of the Kia. It will just need a sleeve machined and a bracket welded to it. So far so good.
And these last two show the power steering pump mounted. It looks like I'm going to be fine with hood clearance and hose routing.
And these last two show the power steering pump mounted. It looks like I'm going to be fine with hood clearance and hose routing.
- :
- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
Lookin good man. I'm starting to consider this chasis for an all out racer now. although I'd be going a with a KL rather than a FS.
