Would you attempt it?

Semmy

Member
:
2003 Proteg5 ES
First post, thanks for the opportunity, this forum is an amazing resource and very glad I found it!

Took my P5 in to a d-ship for a reg service @ 92,000kms (60k miles), had a faint antifreeze smell after driving, a squeak in the front suspension when going over speedbumps (recently started), and when I started it this morning it had a funny sound the moment it turned over. Popped the hood and noticed the P/S drive belt had jumped over by a row (I know, wtf?!?!?!)

So I take it in, request they look into the above mentioned issues and get back to me.

Results?

- reset the belt position, recommend replacement and the alternator belt too :rolleyes:
- greased the lower control arm bushings apparently they were dry but I have no idea how, they should have been done regularly at the dealership during previous services
- leaking water pump...estimate? $500 plus tax.

total cost for the service? $189!!! They charged me $49 to reset the P/S pump belt!!!

Last time my car goes to a Mazda dealership...ever.

So the question is...I've read the manual and the procedure to re&re the water pump doesn't look toooo complicated, but would you attempt it yourself or just buy the parts for 1/2 the price of the dealer cost and take it to a reputable shop?

2nd question - any good shops in Vancouver, BC burbs that wouldn't **** me to do this job?

Thx in advance for opinions

S
 
damn, stealership ftl.
im curious as to how they greased your bushings, the p5 doesnt have grease fittings. did they pull the control arms and pull the bushings on them or somethin?
 
damn, stealership ftl.
im curious as to how they greased your bushings, the p5 doesnt have grease fittings. did they pull the control arms and pull the bushings on them or somethin?

Not too sure, might be mistaken on what exactly they did (invoice is in glove box) but the squeak is gone so I don't care.
 
Invoice states:

Complaint: check and report (abovementioned squeak)
cause: found control arm bushings dry and noisy
correction: lubed control arm bushings
 
First post, thanks for the opportunity, this forum is an amazing resource and very glad I found it!

Took my P5 in to a d-ship for a reg service @ 92,000kms (60k miles), had a faint antifreeze smell after driving, a squeak in the front suspension when going over speedbumps (recently started), and when I started it this morning it had a funny sound the moment it turned over. Popped the hood and noticed the P/S drive belt had jumped over by a row (I know, wtf?!?!?!)

So I take it in, request they look into the above mentioned issues and get back to me.

Results?

- reset the belt position, recommend replacement and the alternator belt too :rolleyes:
- greased the lower control arm bushings apparently they were dry but I have no idea how, they should have been done regularly at the dealership during previous services
- leaking water pump...estimate? $500 plus tax.

total cost for the service? $189!!! They charged me $49 to reset the P/S pump belt!!!

Last time my car goes to a Mazda dealership...ever.

So the question is...I've read the manual and the procedure to re&re the water pump doesn't look toooo complicated, but would you attempt it yourself or just buy the parts for 1/2 the price of the dealer cost and take it to a reputable shop?

2nd question - any good shops in Vancouver, BC burbs that wouldn't **** me to do this job?

Thx in advance for opinions

S


I have close to 100K miles on my car. It was time for a timing belt replacement. Dealership would've charged about $700 for parts and labor for timing belt replacement and a new water pump. Dealership would probably bill out 4-5 hours and I would have the car back usually that same day.

I decided to do it myself and just finished replacing the timing belt myself last week. It was my very first time doing that kind of work on my car. At the end of it all it took me almost 10 hours over the course of 3 days. Total cost ~$320 (include camshaft seals, crankshaft seal, timing belt, waterpump, waterpump gaskets, valve cover gasket, accessory drive belts, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, spring and new coolant).

This was a very long and tedious first experience for me. Would I ever do it again, probably not. If you know what you're doing and you've done it before, it may not be so bad. For myself however, I don't think I'll be doing anymore timing belt replacements for as long as I live.

Best of luck in whatever you choose.
 
I have close to 100K miles on my car. It was time for a timing belt replacement. Dealership would've charged about $700 for parts and labor for timing belt replacement and a new water pump. Dealership would probably bill out 4-5 hours and I would have the car back usually that same day.

I decided to do it myself and just finished replacing the timing belt myself last week. It was my very first time doing that kind of work on my car. At the end of it all it took me almost 10 hours over the course of 3 days. Total cost ~$320 (include camshaft seals, crankshaft seal, timing belt, waterpump, waterpump gaskets, valve cover gasket, accessory drive belts, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, spring and new coolant).

This was a very long and tedious first experience for me. Would I ever do it again, probably not. If you know what you're doing and you've done it before, it may not be so bad. For myself however, I don't think I'll be doing anymore timing belt replacements for as long as I live.

Best of luck in whatever you choose.

I mechanically adept but not experienced. I thank my last Civic for that, 10 years I owned it and the only things needing replacing were simple (rotors, plugs, rad, distributor, and CV joints).

I already know that Mazda wants to charge me $200 for the water pump, which I can source for around $80 for a rebuild or $100 for new. I just don't trust them. From what I can tell, they want to charge me extra labor for replacing the timing belt, but they have to pull it off anyways to replace the water pump?!?!?!
 
damn, stealership ftl.
im curious as to how they greased your bushings, the p5 doesnt have grease fittings. did they pull the control arms and pull the bushings on them or somethin?

I've greased bushing before using a grease gun with a giant thin needle attached to it. Works pretty well.
 
DIY maintenance

I've greased bushing before using a grease gun with a giant thin needle attached to it. Works pretty well.
Did the same thing on my '89 P/U truck without grease fittings - worked great,
still going strong 6 years later !
Now to get on topic -
I'm a great believer in DIY maintenance, but just remember it's a learning thing, and it will take additional time, tools, and a proper place to work to complete a task. If your up for it, it will save you some hard earned $$$, as long as you don't get in over your head. Info from repair manuals are easy to read, but sometimes they don't cover all the details to perform repairs.
With this in mind, and what Roocer stated - the choice is yours ! (drinks)
 
Whatever you do, don't do it at the dealer, IMO. At home or at another shop, it's gonna come out cheaper.

But first, make sure your water pump is actually leaking.

I went in for my 92000km maintenance about 2 weeks ago.
I had problems with bushings, they wanted to replace my water pump even though it wasn't broken yet, they said i have MAJOR problems with my rear calipers and they might stick and destroy my braking system... etc.

The next day I was 1500$ poorer, and this is without the calipers, which they wanted to charge me 600$ for.

I went to a local shop, got them checked and analyzed completely, turns out there's not one damn thing wrong with my calipers. I was |----| THAT CLOSE to shelling out 600$ for absolutely nothing.

Sorry for this being more of a rant than actual advice, I'm still pissed at them.
 
Stealerships suck ass!!!


They charged me $50.00 just to diagnose a problem I already knew was there. Also, they wanted to charge me $2000.00 to change my timing belt/water pump, etc...

I had the timing belt done by my mother-in-law's mechanic...in Richmond for $800.00 bux, including parts. Guy barely speaks any English but did a good job...I just have to take the car back to increase the tension on the alternator and power steering/Aircon belts...

The guy speaks Mandarin and his Shop is in Richmond, it is called Nan-Hoi automotive.
 

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