Why do dealers always screw with me?
- Thread starter 1sty
- Start date
65racecoupe
Member
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- Turbo (soon) Yellow 2002 P5
Lord_Zath said:
It is a temporary job until I get into a police department in the Phoenix area.
if you really want to know the trade-in value of a car, go to www.blackbookonline.com
they'll give you a range...and trade-in is usually in the middle...unless you have over 80K on the car, then it's the lowest figure.
the only reason a dealer will use NADA is to see what the bank will advance on a car...not for value...they use black book...which basically takes an average of what cars are selling for in that region's major auctions.
and you can go to edmunds and view invoices and see what rebates are in effect before you buy.
they'll give you a range...and trade-in is usually in the middle...unless you have over 80K on the car, then it's the lowest figure.
the only reason a dealer will use NADA is to see what the bank will advance on a car...not for value...they use black book...which basically takes an average of what cars are selling for in that region's major auctions.
and you can go to edmunds and view invoices and see what rebates are in effect before you buy.
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- '08 Jetta; '10 Wrangler Unlimited
1sty said:
congrats craig.....will you be stopping by dyno-day next saturday?
see your new ride.....
-R
65racecoupe said:
I know exactly what each dealer was giving me toward the car as I made them break it down. Yes they can play with the numbers and try to redistibute them but they know that I had basicly boxed all of there figures in. When it comes to car buying at this point I am well aware of what goes into the deal and how things can be hidden or allocated aroud. I have been taken just about every which way by it. Since I would want to go by the overall price, but not let them screw me on finacing I sent the payments, months and downpayments. There was no place to hide money and I was not overly impressed with any figure compared to another. So if they said they'd give me more on the trade, I'd just look to see how little they took off of the car. Also consider I talked to 4 different dealerships some of which were very upfront with me atleast on the trade as they had no reason not to be.
I'm jumping on dealers in a negative way except for the ones that basicly wanted a large sale or nothing. 2 dealers treated me well and I would Recommend everyone see Marc at Ira Mazda or Michael at Sentry West. They were both awsome and very honest. Ira has a Subaru division that only appraised the car at $22K according to them. Sentry said another dealer would give them $24K for it. Again, they had no reason to lie as they knew at this point that I couldn't care less as I was looking for a certainprice overall rather it was realistic or not. Plus dealers eventualy started telling me the same numbers.
Anyone can estimate what a similar car was traded in for or should be by what the car is resold for on dealers lots and via private sale. If my exact sti was seen for $29K then I can easily enough deduce that they would likely let it go for $27.5k with pricate sales going for $26.5K. I would also know that the dealer already took this into account and becuase of this would at best take it in at a trade of 25K but more likely $24K. Ofcoarse, they could have bought it at auction or really screwed over the guy that traded it in.
- :
- '08 Jetta; '10 Wrangler Unlimited
1sty said:
oh-well, will see it at another meet!
65racecoupe
Member
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- Turbo (soon) Yellow 2002 P5
1sty
You are right to some extent. You will get more for your trade if it is newer and in good condition.
I have a lot of people who look on kbb.com and think that they are going to trade in their car for RETAIL VALUE. These people are idiots.
You are right to some extent. You will get more for your trade if it is newer and in good condition.
I have a lot of people who look on kbb.com and think that they are going to trade in their car for RETAIL VALUE. These people are idiots.
Hahah. After reading the first sentence I knew that you are getting ******. Look at it yourself. You are only looking at monthly payments, and not at the total cost of the car. Stop negotiating on a car based on monthly payments!!! Tell the dealership that you have your own financing/or paying in cash and just try to negotiate on the car's value.
Kbb is an odd one. Their retail for my car was NADA trade in value. KBB's trade in was $5000 lower then NADA's. (yupnope)65racecoupe said:
Yeah, some are totaly ureasonable with trade in. They don't seem to realize that they will never get even the private sale price from a dealer. Hell if you even get the full trade in value you must have a private phone line to jesus and he ows you a favor.
That does no good as i don't have my own financing and you only get a extra $1000 off if you finace through mazda. Keep in mind that once finaced the total price of the car is at the banks discretions with you APR and length of the loan. That is what is really important as that is what you will pay overall. BY this, if you set all of the parameter of loan length, amount down, and monthly price then you set in the overall financed price. They have no where else to play with now its on them to lower the cars price enough and give you enough on a trade it to make it happen. If you just set price then you can get screwed in financing. I had that one happen to me a few times.alexlitov said:
thats what they used at the dealershp for my old car!65racecoupe
Member
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- Turbo (soon) Yellow 2002 P5
Yeah, I only like to do my own financing. My credit is good enough for MY bank to give me a 5 to 7% loan. At a dealership, I would probably get like 10%..
If you have good enough credit (REALLY good credit), financing is available everywhere for LOW rates.
Also, you can re-finance your loan after a year. If there is a car that you like but it is a little high per month due to interest, get it, if you can manage. Your credit will go up and you will get a lower rate in a year.
You guys should also have a good idea of your own credit rating before you buy anything. A couple percentage points on your interest is huge when you are talking about a car or a home. There is NO reason to be late on ANYTHING. It is so easy to get stuff ON your report. It takes 2 years to get it OFF.
If you have good enough credit (REALLY good credit), financing is available everywhere for LOW rates.
Also, you can re-finance your loan after a year. If there is a car that you like but it is a little high per month due to interest, get it, if you can manage. Your credit will go up and you will get a lower rate in a year.
You guys should also have a good idea of your own credit rating before you buy anything. A couple percentage points on your interest is huge when you are talking about a car or a home. There is NO reason to be late on ANYTHING. It is so easy to get stuff ON your report. It takes 2 years to get it OFF.
www.freecreditreport.com
You're allowed 1 free report per year by law if I remember right. There's 2 other sites to check as well, giving you a total of 3 free reports per year, though I don't remember the other 2...
You're allowed 1 free report per year by law if I remember right. There's 2 other sites to check as well, giving you a total of 3 free reports per year, though I don't remember the other 2...
Lord_Zath said:
The eastern US is not entitled to that until september of this year but most everyone else is.
I can get credit on my own but if you already know what you quify for, then you can be sure that the dealers bank is on par. I got 3.9% on the subaru going through Compass bank that the dealership got for me. So if its an honest dealer, they won't f you on the rate.
they're not ******* you...it's a business that's there to make money. dealers can only up the rate by 3%. they make just as much in finance as they do with the sale...as an average.
no one is there to **** you...they're there to pay their bills...you'd do the same thing if that was your source of income.
no one is there to **** you...they're there to pay their bills...you'd do the same thing if that was your source of income.
