whois running Unichip /w J&S safeguard?

[69RMSP]

Hi all,
Just wonding on your experince with this setup.

How much boost are you running?
What mods do you have?
Have you done a compression test recently?
Is your motor forged?
Was it difficult to get them to work?

Any useful information will be great!

Thanks
Adam

 

[jeffmsp]

adam get the j and s regardless of what other ems you get if you can afford it. the j and s is the toy of my dreams.. did you sell the afc? together they would be like sex. forget the unichip, theres nobody around to tune it. (unless you know someone in the gta that does or wanna go back to somewhat stock, your new smic will throw off the stock unichip tune)

 

[69RMSP]

Jeff,
The cost of the J&S is not a big deal and I can get one this Friday latest if I like. The J&S is the toy of most ppls dreams on this forum but with the AFC it's not proven to work. I've only read that one person (Knox Joe) has attempted this and has failed. As per Joe - Basically on partial throttle the car would go into open loop and run lean, " I think the problem is the fuel map loops changing over right at the 0 psi mark." Knox Joe.

In regards to the unichip I know someone local and can tune + it can control timing. The downfall is that I can't tune it myself like the AFC. Now an AFC + J&S combo would be ******* sweet but it's not proven technology. Like you us computer guys enjoy proven technology :

adam get the j and s regardless of what other ems you get if you can afford it. the j and s is the toy of my dreams.. did you sell the afc? together they would be like sex. forget the unichip, theres nobody around to tune it. (unless you know someone in the gta that does or wanna go back to somewhat stock, your new smic will throw off the stock unichip tune)

 

[Knox Joe]

your new smic will throw off the stock unichip tune)

I'm running my Unichip on the stock map with intake, FMIC, j back exhuast, and methanol. (dunno)


I'll be ordering another J&S to go with my Unichip as soon as the new model comes out.


BTW I'm pretty sure it was the two sharing two of the wires from the ECU, and fighting for contol of the car between the factory ECU, the SS AFC, and the J&S.

 

[shane02pro5]

I'm pretty sure the problem was using the tps wire which is not neccessary anymore as I'm told by john from J&S. When the vac port on the J&S unit is used you are able to use all the functions the unit has. I am pulling timing starting at 9psi 1degree and an additional 2degrees between 3500rpms and 4500rpm then it feeds back those 2 additional degrees. All I have wired in is the knock sensor, 2 coil wires (which are spliced in to override the signals) power and ground. I am running this with my Haltech F10a without timing.

 

[69RMSP]

I don't even know what a TPS wire is BUT if you think it caused the problem and can be eliminated by using a vac port and keep all functionality is the J&S then great.

Shane, what's Johns screen name his input would be greatly appreciated.
Edit: from what I understand the v1 only has a RPM sensor.. whats a TPS wire shane?
Just a FYI - I'm using the AFC v2.

I'm pretty sure the problem was using the tps wire which is not neccessary anymore as I'm told by john from J&S. When the vac port on the J&S unit is used you are able to use all the functions the unit has. I am pulling timing starting at 9psi 1degree and an additional 2degrees between 3500rpms and 4500rpm then it feeds back those 2 additional degrees. All I have wired in is the knock sensor, 2 coil wires (which are spliced in to override the signals) power and ground. I am running this with my Haltech F10a without timing.

 

[shane02pro5]

John doesn't get on here much but I'll send you a PM with his e-mail. The tps wire (throttle position sensor) lets the unit know when the cars ecu switches into open loop to start looking for knock. That's my understanding anyway. It's not changing the tps signal or anything it's just sharing the info from it so I'm not sure. Does the V2 control timing or just fuel?

 

[ItsSlow]

This is making me change my mind on selling it now, lol..

 

[shane02pro5]

I love mine! There may be some issues to have to work around but I promise you John is the man and can help get it right!!

 

[69RMSP]

It's Slow - lol bastard... (humpleg)

This is making me change my mind on selling it now, lol..

 

[ItsSlow]

 

[John at J&S]

The 1ch2/ch unit is basically out of production, but I have parts to make a few more.

I made a few different versions of it.

The original version had an adjustable MAP Limiter, adjustment range was 2.5 to 4.85 volts. This was primarily for the Honda and Subaru guys.

The TPS pin was an output that could be used to yank the TPS signal to 5v at 0 psi, in an attempt to force the ECU out of closed loop. This could have been the cause of JK's issue. Don't use it if it causes conflicts. Duh.

Later versions I eliminated the TPS output, and changed it to a fixed O2 clamp, set to hold the O2 signal at 0.5v at 0psi. Note that the O2 wire is not cut. Splice the "TPS" pin to the O2 signal. The pin was still labeled TPS on the front panel. Should have changed it when I laser etched the panels. ok, I get a Duh.

The MAP limiter was also changed on some units. Check the install sheet that came with your kit, because there were a couple variations. One version was used as another type of O2 limiter. This version required cutting the O2 signal, and running it through the unit (MAP in and MAP out). The unit would feed a fake O2 voltage at 0psi. the voltage could be set from 0.3 to 0.9v.

 

[ItsSlow]

What all is the new version supposed to include/upgrade from the old units? And when is it supposed to be out?

 

[John at J&S]

Don't know when it will be out, but I built the first one a couple weeks ago and still haven't powered it up.

It will handle up to eight channels. Has a headphone jack to listen for knock, plus a row of LED's to show which cylinder is knocking. Won't mean much if you are running waste spark.

No O2 clamp or adjustable MAP Limiter, etc.

For those that haven't seen a J&S in action, I made a video last week of one on an F150 Lightning. The truck was tuned for 19 psi on 91 octane. His A/F's go very rich, seems like 10.0, and his timing went back to 12.

In the clip, he has some 89 mixed in, and you can see the unit pulling timing, especially on #5. I had another Lightning guy pm me, saying #5 wrist pin in his truck broke.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4592990325318074993

 

[69RMSP]

So this seems like the issue to me but I'm bar FAR no expert. I want to try this but I hate being the test dummy lol...

Btw John thanks for the quick replys. Is the new JandS going to be a superior unit?

Any other suggestions in terms of getting the afc to work with the JandS?

The TPS pin was an output that could be used to yank the TPS signal to 5v at 0 psi, in an attempt to force the ECU out of closed loop. This could have been the cause of JK's issue. Don't use it if it causes conflicts. Duh.

 

[John at J&S]

The J&S is a timing controller.

Some have a feature that could OPTIONALLY be used to mess with the TPS signal. That's all.

If the AFC also messes with the TPS, then don't connect the J&S to the TPS. Presto, no conflict.

 

[ItsSlow]

 

[_Sloteg_]

The J&S is a timing controller.

Some have a feature that could OPTIONALLY be used to mess with the TPS signal. That's all.

If the AFC also messes with the TPS, then don't connect the J&S to the TPS. Presto, no conflict.

Great. I didn't even think it might be something that simple that make's the AFC incompatible with the J&S....


Do you have any plan's to bring a timing controller to the protege market again?

Atleast, I think I have read that it is not available anymore....

 

[John at J&S]

I had trouble getting processors at a reasonable price. The one I was using in all our products was discontinued, but there are sources. Last time I bought them they were $56 each, for a part that used to cost $16.

I have since found a source in Asia that is more reasonable, and I have a small stock of unused circuit boards, maybe twenty.

I'm not planning on making a specific unit for this car. The new eight channel could be used, of course, but a two channel version could be made smaller and cheaper. I just don't see the demand.

I gave up on the Miata, Subaru, Eclipse, and Honda markets as well. The J&S is a great knock controller, but people want a complete solution. I don't do fuel. They settle for less good knock control.

 

[SeR_Cyclops]

someone needs to try this and post about their results!