Who Owned / Drove a Car with Stiffer Sway Bars?

Yes. What about them?

Just FYI, you'll be stuck at a given spring rate (115%+) for both the front and rear for the AutoExe unless you drill another hole into the bar. The CX-5 could do with a stiffer rear bias... Also it would be wise to source adjustable endlinks...
 
SayNoToPistons said:
Yes. What about them?

Just FYI, you'll be stuck at a given spring rate (115%+) for both the front and rear for the AutoExe unless you drill another hole into the bar. ...
Click to expand...
? Is that bad or are you just saying vs adjustable sway bar? I would probably have to save the links for later, that's another 400+ shipping for front/rear

Another thing I am considering (since you mentioned end links, (thx) and I had to look up why)because I wasn't looking to spend over 600-700, would just be to get the rear bar, and rear end links (I want my suspension angles to be correct so I am not wasting mone causing extra wear and tear/ not getting full effect of my modifications). From what I've gathered it's not a problem to just get a rear bar only or front bar only? It also seems like just because my car is lowered those would be a good swap even with the stock bars..
 
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I had aftermarket swaybars on my Toyota Matrix.
The rear bar upgrade felt like it helped the car to turn in faster.
The front strut tower bar I installed had negligible effects (maybe cause I installed it after the rear sway bar? or maybe because it was unnecessary)
 
Jcanracer said:
I had aftermarket swaybars on my Toyota Matrix.
The rear bar upgrade felt like it helped the car to turn in faster.
The front strut tower bar I installed had negligible effects (maybe cause I installed it after the rear sway bar? or maybe because it was unnecessary)
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Had a rear sway bar in my Matrix as well. Definitely helped with understear a bit, even though it had a torsion beam.
 
Put a rear sway bar on my Tundra (had none). It definitely reduced roll but it also made the truck rock from side to side more on uneven surfaces. It also caused the back end to come out on me a few times in slippery conditions, which caused me to remove it after a while. Ride comfort suffers slightly too.

Buying better tires always makes the most difference.
 
thanks for feedback.. I am going to put my car on a lift and take off some of the underplating to see how my stabilizer links are sitting on lowered springs. If they are a good amount form level, just getting adjustable endlinks (which I would need if I changed the sway bar anyways) will take off any preoload that may exist. I also found via google a Mazda shop in my area will check them out and see if they are any good
 
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I had bwoody bars on my ion redline, helped a lot especially since the car handled like crap but was a beast on straightaways
 
I had the GTI sway bar for $40, it was a no brainer for that amount on my Rabbit and it handle better for sure, though the diameter difference it wasn't that big. I can imagine that with a bigger diameter it would be even better for handling.
I would consider only the rear since there is the most weight.
 
Chris_Top_Her said:
? Is that bad or are you just saying vs adjustable sway bar? I would probably have to save the links for later, that's another 400+ shipping for front/rear

Another thing I am considering (since you mentioned end links, (thx) and I had to look up why)because I wasn't looking to spend over 600-700, would just be to get the rear bar, and rear end links (I want my suspension angles to be correct so I am not wasting mone causing extra wear and tear/ not getting full effect of my modifications). From what I've gathered it's not a problem to just get a rear bar only or front bar only? It also seems like just because my car is lowered those would be a good swap even with the stock bars..
Click to expand...

Reason why I mentioned the AutoExe has only one hole for end link mounting is because it won't allow for adjusting. You are stuck at a static increased rate of "115%" front and rear. Sway bars should be used to dial in roll, but ideally done individually between front and rear. Increasing the rate in front will increase lateral load transfer biased to the front tires, thus increasing understeer. Vice versa for the rear. The CX-5's front pushes, and I think it could benefit from a stiffer rear sway bar as opposed to the front.

Personally I would try a stiffer rear bar ALONE with adjustable end links (proper riddance of preload). See how that feels. If yaw rate is too dramatic (oversteer), then purchase the front. If it feels like the car is pushing, which wouldn't surprise me. Drill the rear endlink to allow for a stiffer setting, that is if you cannot find an adjustable swaybar for the CX-5. Common practice for those familiar with SCCA class restriction rules.

As reputable as AutoExe is at developing well engineered Mazda parts. With most suspension components. Sway bars should be dialed in. There is no magic perfect setting from the manufacturer. That is especially true if you want to adjust the dynamics of the car with little compromise. Hell, some have even removed sway bars and experienced benefit in handling.



If anyone has the time. Take a look at FCM's videos, especially this one concerning swaybars.





BTW, I have yet to confirm if the CX-5 and the Mazda6's sway bars can be swapped. Something I have brought up in the past about them being swappable.
 
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tibimakai said:
I had the GTI sway bar for $40, it was a no brainer for that amount on my Rabbit and it handle better for sure, though the diameter difference it wasn't that big. I can imagine that with a bigger diameter it would be even better for handling.
I would consider only the rear since there is the most weight.
Click to expand...

Probably good advice, I do have a hitch on my car..
 
...58 would be the rear?
I'm no expert in suspension, but I would install a thicker rear sway bar and a front upper strut tower bar. Not sure yet, how rigid are our vehicles, the VW Rabbit it was rigid as hell. When I was going up on a driveway in an angle, my right rear tire it was in the air. H&R Sport springs and GTI rear sway bar.
 
tibimakai said:
...58 would be the rear?
I'm no expert in suspension, but I would install a thicker rear sway bar and a front upper strut tower bar. Not sure yet, how rigid are our vehicles, the VW Rabbit it was rigid as hell. When I was going up on a driveway in an angle, my right rear tire it was in the air. H&R Sport springs and GTI rear sway bar.
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Already ordered an STB. I didn't get a chance but this weekend I will be getting my car on a lift to see how the stabilizer links sit with my car lowered. If they have preload I will probably just get a set of adjustable links, before I purchase the RSB.. But then again I would save shipping if I got them both at the same time (JDM shipping..) it's a big cost so I want to make sure It's want I want
 
tibimakai said:
...58 would be the rear?
I'm no expert in suspension, but I would install a thicker rear sway bar and a front upper strut tower bar. Not sure yet, how rigid are our vehicles, the VW Rabbit it was rigid as hell. When I was going up on a driveway in an angle, my right rear tire it was in the air. H&R Sport springs and GTI rear sway bar.
Click to expand...

The SA chassis is significantly stronger than the cars of the generation before it. Yes, stiffer than a MKVI Golf. A strut bar won't make a notable difference with the CX-5.

It is 58:42 front to rear.
 
Yes if it's that stiff, then it's no point in getting the tower brace, which is a good news.
While on the lift, could you please to take a picture with the muffler system?
I would like to find out, if I can remove a second muffler if there is one. Just trying to get a bit more noise out of this car. The ex VW had a small meffler and a big suitcase muffler in the back.
After removing the small one, I had nice sound increase, nothing to loud.
 
tibimakai said:
Yes if it's that stiff, then it's no point in getting the tower brace, which is a good news.
While on the lift, could you please to take a picture with the muffler system?
I would like to find out, if I can remove a second muffler if there is one. Just trying to get a bit more noise out of this car. The ex VW had a small meffler and a big suitcase muffler in the back.
After removing the small one, I had nice sound increase, nothing to loud.
Click to expand...

Already lifted it. It couldn't really see much because too much s*** in the way, but the links seemed pretty level. With the exception of the rear silencer, the middle muffler (cat) is not bolt on. you would have to cut it off and have some kinda bolt on made. SRI, or Corksport/Racing beat muffler would give you that sound.
 
I've had performance rear sway bars installed on about a dozen cars over the last 20 years; mostly Audi/VW/BMW sedans and coupes. Every single one had a distinct improvement with no negative effects and never required any adjustments. Strut tower braces probably won't be noticeable on the CX-5.

Let us know how it handles after the install.
 
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