What sub/s with JL 500/1?

I have a caulking question

The wood shop that's building my box is cutting grooves so everything fits together nicely (and has more surface for the epoxy to bond) and then screwing the pieces together. I don't remember what they called the connection.

My question is, they can caulk everything visible with the top off, and you can calk where the sides meet the top from the speaker cutout, but how in the world do you caulk where the port baffles meet the top? (confused)

Or do you not need to caulk the joints in the port, and just the main chamber?
 
visual aid:

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nate0123 said:
I have a caulking question

The wood shop that's building my box is cutting grooves so everything fits together nicely (and has more surface for the epoxy to bond) and then screwing the pieces together. I don't remember what they called the connection.

My question is, they can caulk everything visible with the top off, and you can calk where the sides meet the top from the speaker cutout, but how in the world do you caulk where the port baffles meet the top? (confused)

Or do you not need to caulk the joints in the port, and just the main chamber?


there's no need to cut the grooves. good wood glue is stronger than the wood itself;)

they shouldn't use caulk, they should be using good wood glue. it's not hard to glue up every where a piece meets another one. and yes, every joining piece have to be glued;)
 
Looking at those drawings I would seriously look at filleting those corners where the port goes around 180 deg etc.

By which....kinda small triangles from top to bottom in the corners so that the dimension diagonally in the corners is the same as the width of the port. Will promote smoother air flow. You get some buffeting in the port esp when they turn back on themselves.

Remember the output at tuning frequency is basically coming from the port, not off the driver cone.

Looks a nice SQ tune, should get some nice smooth looow grunt with that puppy :)
 
got wake? said:
there's no need to cut the grooves. good wood glue is stronger than the wood itself;)

they shouldn't use caulk, they should be using good wood glue. it's not hard to glue up every where a piece meets another one. and yes, every joining piece have to be glued;)
They're joining the pieces with epoxy (stronger than wood glue), I was talking about sealing the inside joint with caulk once it's all together.

About the grooves, that's how they wanted to build it... That way there was no way the pieces could slide side to side while it was being assembled. I didn't mind, as long as everything was the right dimensions.
 
Critter said:
Looking at those drawings I would seriously look at filleting those corners where the port goes around 180 deg etc.

By which....kinda small triangles from top to bottom in the corners so that the dimension diagonally in the corners is the same as the width of the port. Will promote smoother air flow. You get some buffeting in the port esp when they turn back on themselves.

Remember the output at tuning frequency is basically coming from the port, not off the driver cone.

Looks a nice SQ tune, should get some nice smooth looow grunt with that puppy :)
Damn, I thought ED's box would be perfect the way it was :( You really think I will notice a difference?
 
nate0123 said:
Damn, I thought ED's box would be perfect the way it was :( You really think I will notice a difference?



you won't notice much of a difference. i've noticed the biggest difference in transmission line enclosures, which require better flow of the air. for regular ported boxes it's rare to hear a difference. with smaller ports you can get more port noise without filleting it, but the ED design has a large port, so you won't have to worry about port noise;) with their design, and 500 watts going to an A12, you'll get a little over 40 mph of air velocity at the port. you don't get noticable port noise till a bit over 100 mph;)
 
alright thanks.... so should I just caulk where I can reach and not worry about the rest?
 
nate0123 said:
alright thanks.... so should I just caulk where I can reach and not worry about the rest?


if they are using epoxy or good wood glue, no need to caulk it, as long as they use enough;)
 
oh really... well I bought the caulk already and forgot to grab the receipt

so I gotta caulk something!!! ;)
 
st00pid weather, the wood shop that was supposed to finish my box today was closed today cause of some slippery wet stuff :mad: :wtf:
 
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