I just changed my oil about two weeks ago when i got the car.but have no idea what kind of oil so i went to wal mart and had it changed and they put in penzoil 10w30 is that okay oil to use.the car has 49k on it.ANy suggestions?
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What oil to use in a auto 02 p5
- Thread starter scottm1985
- Start date
Mobil 1 Clean 5K or Mobil 1 is fine.
if you want you can go with the Mobil 1 Extended performance with the ext. perf filter as well (m1-108) which is not avail at walmart but at autozone. and that runs for 15K.
other oils that ive tried are Eneos 5-30 which is great as well but too pricey for me and im at 100K already.
Royal Purple is also pretty good, as well as Valvoline. but Mobil1 FTW if you dont want to spend alot for RP or Eneos.
I stay away from Castrol and Penz.
This is My Opinion tho.
if you want you can go with the Mobil 1 Extended performance with the ext. perf filter as well (m1-108) which is not avail at walmart but at autozone. and that runs for 15K.
other oils that ive tried are Eneos 5-30 which is great as well but too pricey for me and im at 100K already.
Royal Purple is also pretty good, as well as Valvoline. but Mobil1 FTW if you dont want to spend alot for RP or Eneos.
I stay away from Castrol and Penz.
This is My Opinion tho.
okay cool i love the color of your p5 so would it mess up my engine if i did that?
i use mobil 1 full syn 10w30 since my 2nd oil change.....i do it myself....every 5k i change the oil and the filter....
since you got it used and don't know what kinda oil was used before.....i'ld blend it(what i'm doing now with my dakota i got from my dad cause he used dino oil) don't buy the blended crap..... buy a jug of mobil 10w30 reg oil and a jug of mobil1 full syn.....start off with a lil full syn and slowly bring it up...
you can also use the oil filter for the mazda millenia which is a lil bigger than ours....it'll take a lil' bit of oil.....i just have always hated the size of our filters since i started changing my own oil....i cam from an s10 with the 4.3l v6 and the oil filter on that was 4 times bigger
since you got it used and don't know what kinda oil was used before.....i'ld blend it(what i'm doing now with my dakota i got from my dad cause he used dino oil) don't buy the blended crap..... buy a jug of mobil 10w30 reg oil and a jug of mobil1 full syn.....start off with a lil full syn and slowly bring it up...
you can also use the oil filter for the mazda millenia which is a lil bigger than ours....it'll take a lil' bit of oil.....i just have always hated the size of our filters since i started changing my own oil....i cam from an s10 with the 4.3l v6 and the oil filter on that was 4 times bigger
ScratchNSniff
Undisputed Parts God
- :
- Way to Many
I just use the cheap stuff...whatever is on sale...
I just use the cheap stuff...whatever is on sale...
sell some effin rims and buy the good stuff and take care of that motor son....
ScratchNSniff
Undisputed Parts God
- :
- Way to Many
Lol...I will take care of it when we stop throwing away fluids...
okay cool i love the color of your p5 so would it mess up my engine if i did that?
No, and like bgibb68 said, slowly bring up the full syn level.
it'll help out the engine and also you might wana go get a bottle of Seafoam from walmart and put into ur gas tank the next time you fill up on gas.
as well as gettin new plugs, cleaning your EGR valve and it'll run pretty alot smoother than what it might be running now.
Yeah i allready changed the spark plugs what is the egr valve.and what does seafoam do?excalty
Yeah i allready changed the spark plugs what is the egr valve.and what does seafoam do?excalty
seafoam is the multitool of cleaning.....you can add it to oil, about a hundred miles before a change, to clean out the motor. let it get sucked straight into the intake mani to clean everything out. or add it to gas to clean out the fuel injection system....
and there's a how to on the egr, it feeds exhaust gasses back into the intake for emisions, and everynow and then the valve gets stuck up and will cause a stutter at idle
oh okay cool.so how do you recomend me using the seafoam in my gas first or my intake?
oh okay cool.so how do you recomend me using the seafoam in my gas first or my intake?
both?? the can recommends 1 once per gallon.....and then i would use the rest in the intake......but if you are close to changing the oil again....pour some in the oil
edit: if you do the intake trick(there is a how to) it will smoke ALOT......but that's a good thing....it's all the carbon and crap that has built up
i dont mean to sound like a jerk or anything im seriously asking here. what does the owners manual say to use?
there isn't an owners manual in the world that says to use anything....
but it works.....and have you ever looked inside the intake mani??
no i meant oilthere isn't an owners manual in the world that says to use anything....but it works.....and have you ever looked inside the intake mani??
no i meant oil
ohh....got ya....10w30 is what my thingy says....but i use full syn.....best thing for a motor is a good oil(or synthetic one)
Go to www.bobistheoilguy.com for the full scoop on oil (as well as a total mindf*ck). Those guys are nuts, but useful.
Right now, the best cheap oils are the Chevron dino and Motorcraft, which is semi-synthetic, unless stated otherwise. The best easily available synthetic is Pennzoil Platinum. Rotella T and Rotella Synthetic are great oils, if thick for some applications. This is based on used oil analyses posted over on bitog.
I come from the Subie community, where Mobil 1 has an iffy reputation. Many people find their cars burn it like crazy, and used oil analysis shows it can thin like crazy. The BITOG guys aren't impressed with it because it went from being a true synthetic group IV to a group III oil, which is inferior. A couple years ago, I put a full oil change of Mobil 1 10-30 in my N/A Subie which had 15k on the odometer. I drove from LA to Portland and back, 1600 miles. I pulled into a gas station in LA, and on the offhand, I checked my oil. My stick came out dry. I redipped, dry. Uh, ****. I went straight to Jiffy Lube and did a change on the spot. It was short two quarts or so.
I won't be using Mobil 1 again, but that's just me.
Right now, the best cheap oils are the Chevron dino and Motorcraft, which is semi-synthetic, unless stated otherwise. The best easily available synthetic is Pennzoil Platinum. Rotella T and Rotella Synthetic are great oils, if thick for some applications. This is based on used oil analyses posted over on bitog.
I come from the Subie community, where Mobil 1 has an iffy reputation. Many people find their cars burn it like crazy, and used oil analysis shows it can thin like crazy. The BITOG guys aren't impressed with it because it went from being a true synthetic group IV to a group III oil, which is inferior. A couple years ago, I put a full oil change of Mobil 1 10-30 in my N/A Subie which had 15k on the odometer. I drove from LA to Portland and back, 1600 miles. I pulled into a gas station in LA, and on the offhand, I checked my oil. My stick came out dry. I redipped, dry. Uh, ****. I went straight to Jiffy Lube and did a change on the spot. It was short two quarts or so.
I won't be using Mobil 1 again, but that's just me.
Last edited:
scottm1985, Pennzoil 10w-30 is OK, in fact any name brand dino oil will be OK as long as you follow the Mazda recommended service schedule. If your car is running well you don't need to bother with cleaning the EGR valve. Seafoam is probably OK but I have never used it in any vehicle. If you wish to change to synthetic just drain your oil and fill with synthetic, it mixes with and is compatible with dino oil, before anyone disagrees read the label on the bottle.
I also buy dino name brand oil on sale. There is no indication it harms my engine. At 69k miles and two cross country trips of over 7k miles each it has never needed any oil added between changes.
Clifton
I also buy dino name brand oil on sale. There is no indication it harms my engine. At 69k miles and two cross country trips of over 7k miles each it has never needed any oil added between changes.
Clifton
I agree. You could mix the dino oil and synthetic over time, but when I made the switch I did it all at once without any problems. Also, the manual recommends 5w30 or 10w30 - I roll with 5w30 in the winter b/c Iowa gets s*** cold, and 10w30 in the summer b/c Iowa gets s*** hot.
Gotta love Iowa....3 weeks ago it was 76 degrees and sunny on Monday, Wednesday it was pouring with hail, and Thursday we got 1/2" of snow. I am not exaggerating these numbers at all.
Gotta love Iowa....3 weeks ago it was 76 degrees and sunny on Monday, Wednesday it was pouring with hail, and Thursday we got 1/2" of snow. I am not exaggerating these numbers at all.
LOL! @ Iowa. Holy hell!
But I concur with the previous two posters. The whole 'not mixing oils' thing is for old classic cars, it does not at all apply to our cars. All oils on the market today are compatible with each other, and car engine seals are compatible with the oils.
But I concur with the previous two posters. The whole 'not mixing oils' thing is for old classic cars, it does not at all apply to our cars. All oils on the market today are compatible with each other, and car engine seals are compatible with the oils.
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