Sell the BOV and the timer. Neither gets you any power gains or benefit on this engine. Use the money you get towards some mods that actually do something beneficial. If you insist on keeping the BOV, make darn sure you run it in full recirc and not VTA. MAF sensor engines like ours do not like VTA.
Stock BPV works as well or better than anything on the aftermarket out there up to and well beyond the maximum boost level of the stock turbo.
Turbo timer is an obsolete technology as we have a built in system that continues to circulate the water through the turbo housing after shut down. It is called passive thermal siphoning and eliminates the benefits from a turbo timer. Those were beneficial for older turbos that just had oil lines for cooling. We have both oil lines to the center shaft and separate water jackets.
From Garrett's web site:
"Should I run a Turbo Timer?
A turbo timer enables the engine to run at idle for a specified time after the ignition has been turned off. The purpose is to allow the turbo to cool down thus avoiding "coking" ("coking" is burned oil that deposits on surfaces and can lead to blocked passages).
The need for a turbo timer depends on how hard the turbo and engine is used. Running at full speed and full load then immediately shutting down (heat soak) can be extremely hard on a turbo. Water-cooling of the turbocharger's center housing has essentially eliminated the need for turbo timers or extended idling periods."
While we run a K04 turbo, not made by Garrett, we do have the same siphoning water cooled concept.
If you are interested in gaining some power, I'd say you should consider addressing the exhaust side, and NOT with a CBE, as that produces no realistic gains on this engine either. The stock CBE is excellent. Consider at least a catless racepipe. That secondary cat is very restrictive. Better yet, consider a catted or catless dp/rp combo. You can pick up 20-25 more whp with that mod.
Whatever you do, invest in some type of engine monitoring. At least a basic boost gauge. If you can afford it and plan on more extensive mods, consider a Dash Hawk or other type of data logging device.
One good option that has emerged which has proven to produce nice gains and works with just about all bolt on mods is the nice little Hypertech programmer, which reflashes your ECU by safely raising boost levels, adjusting timing and slightly raising the load targets all while keeping your air to fuel ratios very safe. It is designed to specifically and propererly recalibrate your mass air flow sensor's signal to your ECU to optimize the particular aftermarket intake you are running. In addition to the nice bump up in power, it also releases the power restriction in first and second gear of the stock ECU, allowing full power potential in those gears. It is positively transformational in that regard.
If you are interested in more power (and willing to assume more risk of possible, zoom, zoom, boom, then consider more powerful tuning options like Cobb's AP or the CPE Standback and a possible custom tune.
I'd get some kind of monitoring device and address the bottlenecks upstream of the CBE, those two low flow cats and the restricive stock downpipe.
As with all mods, there are mod specific issues that can be addressed if you have questions.
BTW: regardless of what anyone says, a turbo inlet pipe DOES NOT produce any more power. Some claim it makes the engine more responsive through quicker spool up time. The jury is out on that, IMHO. Others will disagree.
Many here will say that your next mod should be a rear motor mount. I would not disagree with that, but have managed to get 45,000 miles out of my stocker with very hard and aggressive driving and launches, but it is just about shot now and will be replaced soon.
