What is the Max HP that my Mazdaspeed can put out?

[MSP09]

Clarksville TN

 

[MSP09]

Looks like my car is going to need new piston, rings, locks and bearings to fix the issue that it has. I was lucky that it only come to those parts, he said that all the other parts are okay to use. I am really hoping that its true. He said that the guy I bought from must have been running a really bad tune and also over boosting the car. Man I hope that I never do that. Can anybody tell me where I can get this piston set (#6614M84 or wis6614m84)? The parts that I need are made from wiseco, part number being 6614M84 or the SKU is wis6614m84. Please all the help would be great.

 

[Jaleik]

If you are having it done I doubt it will be less than 3k.

 

[BoostProtege]

I know this thread is old but sort of on topic, does any body know how much power the stock block can handle? i bent a rod at 15psi and blew a hole through the block on each side and scarred up the crank pretty bad, I've found full n/a engines for pretty cheap. I plan on taking the block and crank, selling the rest of the engine, and putting forged rods and pistons in it. Any input?

 

[jdwk]

The block is more capable than anything the transmission can handle. I doubt the block will ever be anyone's weakest link.

 

[Installshield 2]

The factory iron block, as in literally just the block, is silly strong...as is the factory crank, of which is not only forged...but very short in length...an extremely good combination for out right strength and low levels of harmonic resonance per given output...obviously the block can't handle localized blunt trauma from a broken connecting rod...but its a very safe bet the assembly will destroy itself WAY before the block is an issue...

the weakest link in terms of stock parts are the connecting rods...the rods themselves are short, and actually fairly strong as far as non-performance engines go...but the assembly is linked at the pistons with press fit wrist pins...not the floating variety...imo, the common cause of destroying a rod comes from very excessive heat (due to a poor tune) on the piston crowns, which quickly gets soaked to the pins...and articulation is removed as the super heated piston skirt clamps down on a pressed pin...and...grenade...

its very unlikely that a rod that short just easily bends from straight up output...its a heat problem and causes assembly rotation problems...and the connecting rods are bolted to relatively strong pistons...and an extremely strong crank...so its the rod that does a back flip literally right through the block...

 

[YlwMSP]

Just out of curiosity, are there any oem sized aftermarket rods? something that can just be put in instead of the stock fisher price setup? I'd like to get close to 250 whp, but funds definitely are an issue until I graduate school here in a few months. I also know that if I were to actually build the motor, you don't want to go cheap on it at all, but I figured make this a fun daily then get something that can support a lot more power down the road.

 

[Jaleik]

Just out of curiosity, are there any oem sized aftermarket rods? something that can just be put in instead of the stock fisher price setup? I'd like to get close to 250 whp, but funds definitely are an issue until I graduate school here in a few months. I also know that if I were to actually build the motor, you don't want to go cheap on it at all, but I figured make this a fun daily then get something that can support a lot more power down the road.

All the aftermarket rods are available in oem size...

 

[YlwMSP]

I meant it as can you just put in the aftermarket rods without having to do the machining work that costs more money

 

[Jaleik]

Well you could do that but its not recommended.