Shiny bits....something my car hasn't seen in a long time.Back to stock. Yay!!
So much nicer to drive on the highway.
View attachment 298020
Definitely time for a wash though....
Shiny bits....something my car hasn't seen in a long time.Back to stock. Yay!!
So much nicer to drive on the highway.
View attachment 298020
Definitely time for a wash though....
Back to stock. Yay!!
So much nicer to drive on the highway.
Definitely time for a wash though....
Stock muffler, de-catted is the way to go. Nice tone, nice volume, not too obnoxious unless you go WOT at every chance you get.I remember when I had a magnaflow on mine for what ended up being far too long. Made the thing horrible on the highway. Much happier with it being stock
Stock muffler, de-catted is the way to go. Nice tone, nice volume, not too obnoxious unless you go WOT at every chance you get.
Very cool, tj4fa2003P5! A $750 Protege5 sounds like a bargain if the engine and trans is good and it just needs work on the suspension and brakes. Does the car have 155k or is that just the struts? You should post some photos too.-Last Night - for son's recent $750- 2003 P5 purchase, I removed and replaced both rear struts at 155K miles.
Driver's side was making "thunking" noises when hitting bumps and when pushing down on left rear car body.
-Struts purchased are Duralast struts from Autozone.
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822L
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822R
--Maybe not the best and definitely not the cheapest but pressed for time.
--Also didn't know I could have ordered them online and saved 20% with a discount code and next day delivery.
___
STRUTS
-Before removing the struts, I spray-painted the bolts, the struts outer outline, and empty hole of the lower strut mount against the spindles (didn't have a Sharpie) to verify and maintain the new strut's alignment.
-The old struts had a super thin transparency paper plastic "strut mount gasket" installed on the top of the strut and between the wheel-well body to act as some kind of cheap (my guess) vibration isolation damper.
-I used that clear plastic gasket to make my own gasket using foil-backed rubberized "peel-and-stick" waterproofing membrane material, (stuff normally used on roof valleys and edges, and when installing exterior doors and windows) - at least twice the thickness of that plastic gasket) and installed it (stuck) it on the top of the new strut as a vibration (noise) damper.
-Why - Because I had a 2000 Maxima that had no strut mount gaskets at all and it was noisy as hell until I pre-fabricated and installed some improvised gaskets (back then used regular general purpose gasket material and they worked well).
--FYI - Mazda dealerships sell strut mount gaskets for a few other Mazda models including the P5 for about $2.50 plus shipping. Below is a link to a Mazda dealership where you can find them and other parts.
2003 Mazda P5 Strut Mount Gaskets
-I will test drive the car later today and report back how the struts sound and work after installing new brake pads all around (rotors good), Exile shift linkage bushings, and a Megan short (throw) shifter today (weather permitting).
Oh cool, please do let us know how the shifter mods go! I installed the same combo of bushings/SS about a year ago but I've had tons of problems with it rattling and being too notchy. My experience does not seem to represent that of most people's though, and I'm beginning to think I have something wrong or a defect. Would love to hear your experience once installed.Exile shift linkage bushings, and a Megan short (throw) shifter today (weather permitting).
$750 for a P5 with 155k? Damn, that's a bargain.-Last Night - for son's recent $750- 2003 P5 purchase, I removed and replaced both rear struts at 155K miles.
Driver's side was making "thunking" noises when hitting bumps and when pushing down on left rear car body.
-Struts purchased are Duralast struts from Autozone.
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822L
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822R
--Maybe not the best and definitely not the cheapest but pressed for time.
--Also didn't know I could have ordered them online and saved 20% with a discount code and next day delivery.
___
STRUTS
-Before removing the struts, I spray-painted the bolts, the struts outer outline, and empty hole of the lower strut mount against the spindles (didn't have a Sharpie) to verify and maintain the new strut's alignment.
-The old struts had a super thin transparency paper plastic "strut mount gasket" installed on the top of the strut and between the wheel-well body to act as some kind of cheap (my guess) vibration isolation damper.
-I used that clear plastic gasket to make my own gasket using foil-backed rubberized "peel-and-stick" waterproofing membrane material, (stuff normally used on roof valleys and edges, and when installing exterior doors and windows) - at least twice the thickness of that plastic gasket) and installed it (stuck) it on the top of the new strut as a vibration (noise) damper.
-Why - Because I had a 2000 Maxima that had no strut mount gaskets at all and it was noisy as hell until I pre-fabricated and installed some improvised gaskets (back then used regular general purpose gasket material and they worked well).
--FYI - Mazda dealerships sell strut mount gaskets for a few other Mazda models including the P5 for about $2.50 plus shipping. Below is a link to a Mazda dealership where you can find them and other parts.
2003 Mazda P5 Strut Mount Gaskets
-I will test drive the car later today and report back how the struts sound and work after installing new brake pads all around (rotors good), Exile shift linkage bushings, and a Megan short (throw) shifter today (weather permitting).
Right?? And that's why I asked about pictures. If it's mechanically decent with that mileage, there must be something else wrong, or it was just a great deal.$750 for a P5 with 155k? Damn, that's a bargain.
Mine was $1500, and it's got the rustiest subframe I've ever seen in a car, plus the rust issues on the body, and the paint fade. And the salvage title. (Yeah, my mom got ripped off big time on this one lol)Right?? And that's why I asked about pictures. If it's mechanically decent with that mileage, there must be something else wrong, or it was just a great deal.
Mine was $1500, and it's got the rustiest subframe I've ever seen in a car, plus the rust issues on the body, and the paint fade. And the salvage title. (Yeah, my mom got ripped off big time on this one lol)
So sad to see one abandoned...They're awesome cars and they don't deserve that fate.Was driving on the highway today and saw an abandoned silver Protege5, identical to mine. Had to stop and take photos. Bit sad to see another one go, especially this way.
View attachment 298199View attachment 298200
Thing is cosmetically and probably mechanically totaled, and it's been partially stripped. Owner definitely didn't take care of it at all. 5spd with leather and a sunroof too. The temptation to take parts off it is high, but I don't want to be that guy.
yeah, they deserve to rust into the ground while still being driven!So sad to see one abandoned...They're awesome cars and they don't deserve that fate.
So sad to see one abandoned...They're awesome cars and they don't deserve that fate.
Mine was $1500, and it's got the rustiest subframe I've ever seen in a car, plus the rust issues on the body, and the paint fade. And the salvage title. (Yeah, my mom got ripped off big time on this one lol)
-I did have trouble installing the bottom dust boot. I ended up taking the two o-rings off the side of the new Megan shifter and running the rubber dust boot to the top of the shifter using a little lubricant to get it to seat in the hole before installing the c-clip.Very cool, tj4fa2003P5! A $750 Protege5 sounds like a bargain if the engine and trans is good and it just needs work on the suspension and brakes. Does the car have 155k or is that just the struts? You should post some photos too.
Oh cool, please do let us know how the shifter mods go! I installed the same combo of bushings/SS about a year ago but I've had tons of problems with it rattling and being too notchy. My experience does not seem to represent that of most people's though, and I'm beginning to think I have something wrong or a defect. Would love to hear your experience once installed.
I don't know how many miles (if any?) that you've put on the car, but our cars LOVE to burn oil, mainly due to lack of oil changes.This means YOUR cars are worth more right now and replacing parts on my son's car I rationalize is an "investment".
-Thanks - Good Info to know about using Seafoam as my son just bought it from a friend a couple of weeks ago.I don't know how many miles (if any?) that you've put on the car, but our cars LOVE to burn oil, mainly due to lack of oil changes.
Our FS engine has a poor design with it's oil rings on the pistons.
They have very little spring tension and let oil into the combustion chambers and gas into the oil.
I would suggest an "engine flush" to help wash away any carbon buildup.
I use seafoam and have used it for the entire time I've had my car (over 10 years) and I don't burn a drop of oil.
This is a picture of a piston from my parts car that was burning oil like a MOFO.
Some guys fog out their entire neighborhood when they start their cars.
View attachment 298413
A link to the guy that discovered the problem.
Thread ''02 Protege5 burning oil, white smoke on startup/post downhill acceleration' https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/ind...startup-post-downhill-acceleration.123864613/
Check the links and the post by gozz that discovered the problem...
You want to keep the oil drain holes clear before they completely plug up.
In my experience, the engines will also start to make a little bit of top end noise upon first start up, then it'll clear and it won't be there again when you shut it down and restart it. But if you come back to your car 3-4 hours after starting it, you'll hear that noise. An oil change took care of that for me last time, and I'm within 1000 miles of my change threshold, so I think that's my car's way of letting me know "Hey fucker, you need to change the oil!"-Thanks - Good Info to know about using Seafoam as my son just bought it from a friend a couple of weeks ago.
-I haven't noticed any oil burning and will keep an eye on it. I did notice the oil change sticker shows it will need an oil change soon so may run some Seafoam soon.