Five weeks, sixteen emails and $10 later...
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Please tell me it actually works out of the box this time...I hate when companies won't acknowledge that they screwed up a product and put it on the customer to fix something that shouldn't have needed fixing in the first place.
well here it is. who's going to be the first to try this thing out? https://www.ovtuned.com/collections/mazda-protege
If the chain broke you could have bent valves to deal with. The second gen 6s are actually pretty good cars, we rarely had problems at the dealer with them aside from the sunglasses holders breaking and the exhaust gaskets wearing out and squeaking. I would look for a V6, they actually run pretty decent. A CX7 wouldn't be bad but honestly I would stay away from the turbo models, the 2.5s are pretty solid.I've found a CX-7 with a broken timing chain for $1,000 about 100 miles away. My girlfriend really doesn't want me buying a non-running car to repair and drive. She'd rather I spend $6,000 on one that currently runs that I'd have to put a timing chain in anyway. Yes, I understand the non-running will require more than just a chain. If I can spend $1,000 and get it running for $1,000, I'd much rather do that. Then I'd have that much more to spend on correcting other unknown issues it may have.
It's a long-term relationship and we have children, so she's a wife.Girlfriend does not equal wife, do what you want.
I've already assumed it would need a head and checked local salvage yard stock. Heads range from $450-800. Factor in a timing set, gasket set, head bolts and timing tools and I could come out as cheap as $1,000. I wouldn't imagine I'd exceed $2,000, but with my luck, there'd be damage to a piston or cylinder wall.If the chain broke you could have bent valves to deal with. The second gen 6s are actually pretty good cars, we rarely had problems at the dealer with them aside from the sunglasses holders breaking and the exhaust gaskets wearing out and squeaking. I would look for a V6, they actually run pretty decent. A CX7 wouldn't be bad but honestly I would stay away from the turbo models, the 2.5s are pretty solid.
I've replaced axle seals in EVERY transmission I've replaced as well as having replaced them as normal repairs on my other Protege's and I've never had an issue. I hear the "OEM only" argument often, but normally the failure is installer error. There was a guy on the FB pages a couple of months ago who was having chronic camshaft seal failure, advised by others that it was caused by aftermarket seals (Fel-Pro) and instructed him to purchase OEM to correct the problem. After he stated it was his fourth set to go in, I told him it's probably not the fact he went with aftermarket and there is another cause. Advised him to check the valve cover gasket where it meets the cam caps. Sure enough... it was the valve cover gasket. While I understand this scenario was directly related to a misdiagnosis, there were so many people telling him the problem was the fact he used aftermarket cam seals rather than OEM. I've been a service manager for 10 years now and I hear the same s*** from techs- "if it was OEM it wouldn't have leaked!".. bulls***, Tech B did the exact same job five times last quarter using the exact same seals on the exact same application- they're not leaking... In short, if you go with a quality, well-known aftermarket replacement, whether it be a seal, gasket, engine component, etc, and install it correctly, you'll likely not have a problem. Also assuming the concern was properly and accurately diagnosed to begin with.hornsfan, my driver side axle seal is also leaking. reading past threads, people recommend the oem seal over aftermarket but i can't find the part number for it. you have it by any chance
hornsfan, my driver side axle seal is also leaking. reading past threads, people recommend the oem seal over aftermarket but i can't find the part number for it. you have it by any chance
I love how every Mazda I've ever touched in regards to axles has always been a problem the first time they came apart. My first P5 was one of the hardest I've ever dealt with. I soaked them, heated them, beat the **** out of them with a 5lb. sledge, let my 375lb. friend spend 30 minutes with the sledge before they finally loosened up, but the end of the spline was mushroomed. Ended up having to grind it down to get it out of the hub. The 6, I gave up and just left them hanging from the hub when I removed the engine/trans/subframe. Made it kind of tricky when going back together. The MSP was a little tough, but don't remember it being anything like those other two. My buddys '99 was a b****, too.Got everything off and the trans ready to pull but the damn axles wouldnt come out. Drivers side is stuck in the spindle and for whatever reason the passenger side doesn't have enough room to slip out of the spindle even when installed in the trans and everything on the spindle removed except the control arm and tie rod. Will mess with it again tomorrow, just need to drop the trans so I can swap the clutch and then bolt it all back together.
I tried looking them up on the OEM mazda websites and could not find them. SU sells them though, $11 each before shipping.
http://www.***************/Mazda_MSP_Axle_Seal_p/su27238b.htm
I've replaced axle seals in EVERY transmission I've replaced as well as having replaced them as normal repairs on my other Protege's and I've never had an issue. I hear the "OEM only" argument often, but normally the failure is installer error. There was a guy on the FB pages a couple of months ago who was having chronic camshaft seal failure, advised by others that it was caused by aftermarket seals (Fel-Pro) and instructed him to purchase OEM to correct the problem. After he stated it was his fourth set to go in, I told him it's probably not the fact he went with aftermarket and there is another cause. Advised him to check the valve cover gasket where it meets the cam caps. Sure enough... it was the valve cover gasket. While I understand this scenario was directly related to a misdiagnosis, there were so many people telling him the problem was the fact he used aftermarket cam seals rather than OEM. I've been a service manager for 10 years now and I hear the same s*** from techs- "if it was OEM it wouldn't have leaked!".. bulls***, Tech B did the exact same job five times last quarter using the exact same seals on the exact same application- they're not leaking... In short, if you go with a quality, well-known aftermarket replacement, whether it be a seal, gasket, engine component, etc, and install it correctly, you'll likely not have a problem. Also assuming the concern was properly and accurately diagnosed to begin with.