frick...
msp 133km
110 110 180 180
p5 311km
195 195 197 203
guess ill be drivint he p5 for longer than i thought.
Hornsfan are we not able to drop the engine in with the intake manifold already bolted in?
Hornsfan are we not able to drop the engine in with the intake manifold already bolted in?
You may be able to but I did not want to remove the hood and having the IM in place would make installing one of the bolts connecting the engine and trans a b**** to get to, as well as making installing the starter and alternator more difficult. Plus I left the trans in the car so I had to unbolt the front and driver side mounts to get enough room to drop the motor in. Water pump pulley, timing covers and the bracket on the pass side were all on the motor and it squeezed in, just had to loosen the PS and AC lines to move them back a little and had to remove the crank pulley but it all dropped in eventually.
Thanks for the clarification guys. Preferio my plan is to do what you just described. Wish one of you was local to me when the time came. Im currently collecting all the stuff I need to turn my forged shortblock into a complete long block.Yes, you absolutely can. I've had the intake installed every time I've R&R/I'd the engine. As well as having all accessories already hung on it. The only one I've not had on EVERY time is the power steering pump just because it's easier to unbolt and lay off to the side and hold back with bungie cords. Otherwise it''ll drop right in with enough wiggling around. I've also done it with the transmission installed as well as the transmission staying in the car. I prefer an assembled unit to be dropped it. It's easy with a load leveler.
don't trust the coolant I installed
Yes, you absolutely can. I've had the intake installed every time I've R&R/I'd the engine. As well as having all accessories already hung on it. The only one I've not had on EVERY time is the power steering pump just because it's easier to unbolt and lay off to the side and hold back with bungie cords. Otherwise it''ll drop right in with enough wiggling around. I've also done it with the transmission installed as well as the transmission staying in the car. I prefer an assembled unit to be dropped it. It's easy with a load leveler.
Thanks for the clarification guys. Preferio my plan is to do what you just described. Wish one of you was local to me when the time came. Im currently collecting all the stuff I need to turn my forged shortblock into a complete long block.
got my msp back together for a good run tonight and burnt a lot of stuff out of it. man i miss it heh.
also picked up some mazda wheels for the p5 but have no idea what they are. they kinda look like mazda 3 wheels and have mazda stamps on the inside but they dont really look like any mazda wheels i found on google. almost like vw wheels.
prob gonna paint them. just not sure if it will be black or bronze for the p5. bronze prob a little bad for yellow msp though.
That is strange, I thought I had seen every mazda wheel but I don't recognize those. Must've been a Canada-only wheel or something.
So I thought I had the overheating issue fixed but it got hot again yesterday and the coolant was low. I replaced the HG only a couple months ago, new water pump only a couple weeks ago, new coolant, newer silicone rad hoses. Can't find any leaks even when it's running, mishimoto rad that is not visibly leaking, new cap (tried three different caps), fans are working fine and kick on normally. Burped the system multiple times and it works fine for a while then it starts to get hot. Gauge never reaches all the way hot just about 3/4 then drops to normal, doesn't get hot when sitting still only after boosting and putting the engine under load. The system must be loosing coolant somehow but the car is running great and the coolant isn't bubbling like the HG is bad. My last option is to replace the thermostat, unless somehow the turbo is causing the coolant to become excessively hot? I'm so tired of messing with what should have been a simple fix.
So I thought I had the overheating issue fixed but it got hot again yesterday and the coolant was low. I replaced the HG only a couple months ago, new water pump only a couple weeks ago, new coolant, newer silicone rad hoses. Can't find any leaks even when it's running, mishimoto rad that is not visibly leaking, new cap (tried three different caps), fans are working fine and kick on normally. Burped the system multiple times and it works fine for a while then it starts to get hot. Gauge never reaches all the way hot just about 3/4 then drops to normal, doesn't get hot when sitting still only after boosting and putting the engine under load. The system must be loosing coolant somehow but the car is running great and the coolant isn't bubbling like the HG is bad. My last option is to replace the thermostat, unless somehow the turbo is causing the coolant to become excessively hot? I'm so tired of messing with what should have been a simple fix.
No, it's just easy to evacuate and recharge it.Did you delete the A/C?