What have you done to your MSP today?

o0n8 said:
got the greasable bushing yesterday, pretty sure they will do the job, might aswell replace the front endlinks while i'm at it. Gonna try the build your own, but since my car is lowered wouldn't i want to have the endlinks a little shorter that stock? I think the length of the stock caused my issue
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Technically it would be longer, if you're lowered. But I'm lowered ~2" or so and I use oem endlinks with no issues... I'm pretty sure others do as well.

*ninja'd by Carl...
 
^^ im owered 2 inches... oem end links.... no issues there.... have rubbage though.... ( need to roll the fender wells )
 
ditto, I dono how much lower than stock I am, but with 18" rims/wheel I have about 1-2cm space between the wheel, with something close to...5-6" above the ground to the lower parts under the car.. speed bumps larger than those small strips suck.. I hate them with a passion lol, glad I have the 18"s though, saw a orange srt4 that I hate as well, (the guy drives around campus all day and all night in first gear with a very crappy sounding exhaust, sounds close to straight pipe with bad tune.. and he looks like a douche lol) but he has like 16" wheels I guess, and he just slammed his car, he can't even get into a angled parking section without bottoming out.. me and my roommate laugh at him when we see him do that out our windows lol.. but ya to my point, stock endlinks, rolled fenders though.. but no issues with them(the endlinks)
sorry had to vent a little

but in the spirit of the thread, today I will be ordering the spicy caliper paint and hopefully starting a GI/GB kinda thread for Gtspec strut bars, even though they just did one I guess.. they can only be special ordered and I want one.. badly... so once I get the ok from ken hopefully, I'll start it up!
 
my thoughts...when you lower the car and the endlink is the same length wouldn't that push the sway bar down and away from the strut where it conects to the endlink? Therefore shorter would pull it back closer to the strut closer to the oem position.
 
o0n8 said:
my thoughts...when you lower the car and the endlink is the same length wouldn't that push the sway bar down and away from the strut where it conects to the endlink? Therefore shorter would pull it back closer to the strut closer to the oem position.
Click to expand...
when you lower the car... the endlink stays in the same position (strut body, which is what its connected to, doesn't move.)

The car moves down... so the sway bar's mounting to the car moves down.

So relatively speaking, the end of the sway bar moves UP.
 
I'm gonna wash it today. The msp is going to a party tonight, then a strip club most likely. highschool reunion type thing. It's like 100 deg out though, shyt!
 
Wagonbacker9 said:
when you lower the car... the endlink stays in the same position (strut body, which is what its connected to, doesn't move.)

The car moves down... so the sway bar's mounting to the car moves down.

So relatively speaking, the end of the sway bar moves UP.
Click to expand...

yeah that makes sense now, for somereason i was thinking the whole strut moved down not the car.

just saw this and laughed (stripper)
 
Wagonbacker9 said:
wasn't me...

edit: I just checked your posts, and the only one I see in about the last 100 that was deleted was one I took down for street racing narative. I'd assume whatever posts you're referring to simply aren't posting?
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ok reguardless, i am not really concerned, just wondering. so again i had a port and pollish done last to throttle body and adjusted my throttle cable and my idol so it was consistant again. when porting it obviously changes the air flow going into the motor, there for the ecu reads it diffrently, thus my fuel cut stopped even without my SSAFC installed yet... car pulls alot harder and spools up hell hella fast with the port added and also just put in a light weight flywheel. everything reacts faster. i was very pleased with my results. the guy who did this work on my car worked for mazda for 10 years, he, is, a boss!
 
MSPBrett said:
ok reguardless, i am not really concerned, just wondering. so again i had a port and pollish done last to throttle body and adjusted my throttle cable and my idol so it was consistant again. when porting it obviously changes the air flow going into the motor, there for the ecu reads it diffrently, thus my fuel cut stopped even without my SSAFC installed yet... car pulls alot harder and spools up hell hella fast with the port added and also just put in a light weight flywheel. everything reacts faster. i was very pleased with my results. the guy who did this work on my car worked for mazda for 10 years, he, is, a boss!
Click to expand...

Got pics?
 
Looked up my production number finally which is 710 and painted the front grill I will upload pics later after its dry and put on.
car2.jpg
 
Last edited:
MSPBrett said:
ok reguardless, i am not really concerned, just wondering. so again i had a port and pollish done last to throttle body and adjusted my throttle cable and my idol so it was consistant again. when porting it obviously changes the air flow going into the motor, there for the ecu reads it diffrently, thus my fuel cut stopped even without my SSAFC installed yet... car pulls alot harder and spools up hell hella fast with the port added and also just put in a light weight flywheel. everything reacts faster. i was very pleased with my results. the guy who did this work on my car worked for mazda for 10 years, he, is, a boss!
Click to expand...

So you installed the flywheel @ the same time as the TB port?

If so, I would venture to guess that the difference in throttle response and what you're noticing is *almost* entirely from the flywheel.
 
My 45 degree coupler came in from silicone intakes today. It is real good quality but almost 25 bucks. Now I just need to get some RTV and gaskets and im ready to install my 505zoom intake manifold when it gets back.
 
ya I really like that website, that is where I got all my vac hoses and Tbolts from, they are really good quality and very thick walled vac lines, and cheaper, the couplers I had already got locally but there all generally really expensive for good ones.

so started the GI for GT Spec strut bars!.. need 10 more people! don't make the mistake I did and wait till the GB is over lol! can't wait (humpleg)
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5217888#post5217888
 
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ucMP3 said:
So much gold and CF. Flossy, lol.

Hows the motor build coming along? Are you back up and running yet?
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Sam Ordered the Pistons, because we both got tired of waiting for K1 and the rods. So he suggested 9.0:1 since my goal is just a GT30 with 15-20lbs of boost, He said 9.0:1 should be easily good with that. So once he gets them it goes into his machine shop, then it all ships to me to assemble! :D So its getting there!
 
Outlawstar98 said:
Sam Ordered the Pistons, because we both got tired of waiting for K1 and the rods. So he suggested 9.0:1 since my goal is just a GT30 with 15-20lbs of boost, He said 9.0:1 should be easily good with that. So once he gets them it goes into his machine shop, then it all ships to me to assemble! :D So its getting there!
Click to expand...

Nice, what pistons did you go with? What's the compression with the k1's?

Whats compression on the stock pistons anyways? 9.5:1?
 
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