What have you done to your Mazda5 today?
- Thread starter Rockin03mp5
- Start date
All four rotors and pads were previouly changed by the dealer about 5 years ago and I think someone skipped the part about lubricating the sliding pins. Front rotors and pads were $175 and rear sets were $150.
I did not even bothered to try work on the front CV boot, from pass experience on working on suspension parts it is worth it to farm the work out to a garage were they have the proper tools. The driver side axel had to be changed $270 w/labour.
I did not even bothered to try work on the front CV boot, from pass experience on working on suspension parts it is worth it to farm the work out to a garage were they have the proper tools. The driver side axel had to be changed $270 w/labour.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
WOW! Just wow…
I would recommend R&R'ing the calipers. Did you or the shop check the caliper piston boots for tear and proper movement since it’s been frozen for a period of time?
I would recommend R&R'ing the calipers. Did you or the shop check the caliper piston boots for tear and proper movement since it’s been frozen for a period of time?
Indelibility
Member
Damn, those rotors and calipers look awful. I hopes everythig else is in proper working condition. Tires and brakes, the most important parts of the car when you're driving.
Plastidipped the front end today. Was too windy on Sunday, got off work early enough to do the job today. Damned tape, though. I sprayed the whole thing so it looked great, then when I took off the tape the edges of the dip frayed and pulled up like crazy. Ugh. Going to tear it all off and try again this coming weekend.
The caliper pistons are working and in good condition. The inside surface (the side where the piston is) of the rotors are shinny and looks like normal wear. It is just the outside surfaces of the two rear rotors that were not making contact with the pads because of the seized slider pins.
It is funny how fast you can get use to something and feel it is normal. There is a big difference with the new brake setup, they really bring the car to stop quickly and so far no squeaking from the ceramic pads.
One last item, the original battery also died, notice the battery light coming on while heading home on Sunday. By the time I was parking the car the ABS, and steering light came on and I lost steering. That was a scary thing to experience, good thing I was parking the car. Picked up the biggest Kirkland battery from Costco that will fit, got the size 24F with 700CCA.
It is funny how fast you can get use to something and feel it is normal. There is a big difference with the new brake setup, they really bring the car to stop quickly and so far no squeaking from the ceramic pads.
One last item, the original battery also died, notice the battery light coming on while heading home on Sunday. By the time I was parking the car the ABS, and steering light came on and I lost steering. That was a scary thing to experience, good thing I was parking the car. Picked up the biggest Kirkland battery from Costco that will fit, got the size 24F with 700CCA.
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- 2006 Mazda5 Touring
Replaced my alternator yesterday morning before going to work (34 degrees YAY :/) intermittent battery light go bye-bye. Srad2drag, where did you get that lip? I LOVE it, fortuneately you live too far away for me to feel bad about shamelessly copying you LOL.
Yeah we do live a good ways apart lol. Here is the ebay link to the splitter:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=370457387831&globalID=EBAY-US
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- 2006 Mazda5 Touring
You the man! Thanks for that.
Added LED to the trunk, so can now see in the evening/night.
Also added a how/to for it.
Also added a how/to for it.
Also added heated seats. I was going to do rear seats but for now will not. Maybe next year or if the winter get to us.
Took all the plastidip off the front end. I applied it just fine to the front bumper but I was stymied twice by application to the hood. Each time the painter's tape ripped up the plastidip. After my second try, I also discovered that the regular beige masking tape rips off already-applied and dry plastidip. However, before my last attempt at the hood I also proved that a car wash won't remove the plastidip. Oh well. Maybe at some point in the future I'll try again, but I'm defeated and over it right now.
the key to taping plasti-dip is that you have to remove the tape while its still wet. if you wait until its dry, the dip will stick and peel.
I did, both times. The first time I just used one strip of painter's tape. The second time I made six layers of painter's tape and removed them immediately after finishing a coat. Still didn't work.
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- 2006 Mazda5 Touring
I may be a little late to this party but here goes. When I Plastidipped my back bumper, i used a razor knife and sliced the Dip free of the masking tape before I started peeeling it off the car. I removed my tape after the Dip had completely dried, rather than before it had a chance to set up. Using this technique I had only very minor issues with lift-off. HTH, and take some pics PLEASE
phunky.buddha
Booga Booga?
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- DFW TX
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- No mo MZ5 want MX5
I watched/heard my wife pull out of the driveway and turn a little too early, dragging the front bumper straight off and through the curb.
How'd you slice it without cutting the paint? Did you cut all the way down or just most of the way?
